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My gearbox was also sloppy before the lift. I attempted to adjust it multiple times but didn't work. Luck would have it that PO welded the nut to pitman arm so I had to get new gearbox. I opted for AGR gearbox and happy with result. It was a bit expensive.
So I'm guessing I'm dealing with vapor lock now. Went to pick up the wife from work, ran ok. Coming home we get stuck in traffic and the temp rises to just above 220 or so. Get moving and it slowly goes back down. Get stuck at a long stop, it goes back up. Last couple miles it begins to sorta stumble and hesitate like it's running out of gas. Drop her off and am heading to school it dies. On a hill. In a bad intersection during what passes for rush hour here. Crap!
Some nice guy in a well built 4runner stops and we throw a strap on it to get it into a parking lot. Let it sit and cool some and it fires back up. Fuel filter felt kinda warm but being on top of the motor, I'm not sure if it's too warm or normal. Also, since the motor is at operating temp+ , I'm able to spin the fan by hand. Shouldn't it be locked in at this point?
And I really, REALLY need to find a fan shroud!!!
Everything I learned about AMC 360's overheating I learned on my brick oven CJ-7. You need the spring in that lower hose. That fan clutch is probably bad. Do you have the fuel return line on?
'81 Cherokee Chief 81 WT Chief/MSD 6/Holley Sniper/ Rusty 4" Spring lift/ Bulltear oil adapter/K&P Engineering Oil Filter/ NP 208/ Serehill Light Harness/KC LED Headlights/ Evil Twin Fab Roof Rack and sliders/ Ross mirror mounts.
Thanks guys. The drive to school was uneventful as was the trip home. No overheating or vapor lock. Probably due to cooler night time temps and no traffic. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get a clutch locally and swap it out.
I did get to have some extra eyes look at the steering issue with me. We found there is some play/slop in N the steering box shaft that goes to the pitman arm. Remanufactured my butt! So while I'm at the parts store I'll ask them what they want me to do. Replace it or try adjusting it. I've never had any luck adjusting them and don't want to try before seeing if it will void a return under warranty. I did get the DPA swapped and the wheel centered. It drove much better coming home but still isn't good enough. Also getting a faint whine out of the pump. Fluid is full and no frothing so I'm fairly sure it's bled. Maybe the pump is going too? Probably given my luck.
And azchip.. yup. The return line is on with the nipple of the filter at 12oclock. The one in my CJ has some sort of heat reflective stuff on it. I really hate how the fuel line runs to the pump and up the timing cover and across the intake with some loops/curves. When I do the tbi and electric fuel pump I'm going to see what a better route is for that to hopefully minimize heat issues.
For adjusting the steering gear boxes, do it in small increments, checking between adjustments. You may not get rid of the slop before it starts binding. Just make sure to hold the stud while loosening/tightening the lock nut.
They're some kind of weird voodoo.
Tatsadasayago wrote:And here i thought Capitalism was hitting the Shift Key...
If all else fails add a inline electric fuel pump, just a small cheap one that doesn't produce much pressure and turn it on to add a little boost of fuel when vapor locking, works in airplanes and hot rods!
sonoraed wrote:If all else fails add a inline electric fuel pump, just a small cheap one that doesn't produce much pressure and turn it on to add a little boost of fuel when vapor locking, works in airplanes and hot rods!
I just need to bite the bullet and get the fuel injection installed. Driving the wife to work this morning. It's cool out and the temp stayed normal. It has also developed an odd miss/low power. Not sure if it's timing or maybe a bad valve or something. No weird noises but it's definitely not running as well as last night.
Grrrr... Rain is coming in so it's the first water Walter has seen since snow. Sitting in him eating dinner before school and feel my leg getting wet. Look at the recently replaced windshield and yup... It's leaking.
Call that glass company back and have them fix it on their dime. They should have sealed that properly.. First they crack your windsheild then they install it wrong. Bunch of BS... what company was it again so i know to stay away from them ?
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
candymancan wrote:Call that glass company back and have them fix it on their dime. They should have sealed that properly.. First they crack your windsheild then they install it wrong. Bunch of BS... what company was it again so i know to stay away from them ?
It was Safelite. I guess I should have expected it but it's leaking pretty good. By the time I drive home (8 miles +\-) my pants are pretty wet. Carpets wet.
Calling them in the morning.
The other issue is the Jeep is driving like crap. It idles ok but drives like it has about 20hp. No get up and go at all. No idea why or what is causing that so hopefully the rain stops tomorrow and I can poke around. Getting a little discouraged since it seems like the more work I do the worse it runs.
tedlovesjeeps71 wrote:
The other issue is the Jeep is driving like crap. It idles ok but drives like it has about 20hp. No get up and go at all. No idea why or what is causing that so hopefully the rain stops tomorrow and I can poke around. Getting a little discouraged since it seems like the more work I do the worse it runs.
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I think that when you overheated a few days ago is the root of this issue. I recommend the starter fluid vac leak test, as well as sniffing your exhaust (to see if it's sweet like antifreeze) and looking for oil in your coolant. All quick and easy stuff to start with. I bet you'll find it's your carb top plate is warped/cracked from overheating, but that's just my crystal ball and it's averaging about 1/5 right now.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
I hope my carb is the issue and not something worse like a head gasket (s) or worse. At least the FI replaces that stuff. Tearing apart the motor... Not in the cards. I need to check a lot and see where things stand. You guys cross your collective fingers for me and I'll post up what I find tomorrow.
Nikkormat wrote:Fingers and toes crossed. Hopefully it's simple. Never seen an AMC V8 actually blow a head gasket so you should be safe there.
Thanks man. I'm tired and have to be up early to take the wife to work. Gonna try and crash and hopefully not lay in bed pondering the worst case possibilities.
Well... Interesting discoveries. Didn't do anything yesterday as the weather was nasty. Today it cleared enough to poke around. First discovery was the very low coolant level.
Added about half a gallon of antifreeze to bring it level. Then I realized I still haven't put the overflow tank back in... DOH! But I also noticed some wetness around the smaller hose going into the heater core. I don't know why it was leaking but I repositioned the clamp and tightened it up. Seems ok now. Still getting some whine out of the PS pump. Added some more fluid (Lucas with some conditioner). Seemed to quiet a little but will probably have to replace the pump if it doesn't clear up. Heading out for a drive now... We'll see how he does.
Well... It kinda seemed ok heading to the movies. Coming home, not so much. It seems to be running rich considering the fuel smell in the exhaust. It also has laughable lack of power. Idle seems ok if a little rough and under load it definitely has a noticeable shake/miss. Guess I'm gonna grow a set and try and get the Fi put on next weekend. Driving it is loosing its fun when it won't hardly make it up a hill.