Meet Road Trip

Area to show off your Custom Build threads.
Post Reply

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

I rebuilt the shift rod bushings to use the original linkage. When I tried to hook it up to the 4L60E it didn't want to mate up. I considered modifying it to work, but the Shiftworks kit was so easy and inexpensive and I had it don in 45 minutes once I got it. It was worth it to me at the time.

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

Interesting. I'm about to swap to a factory column. I hope I don't have the same problem!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

Ok, had a little time over the last couple of weeks, so I was working on the electrical for RT when I can. I realized that I'm going to need to wire up a dash cluster soon to finish up the wiring, so...

I took the old dash cluster and dissembled it so I could work on it.
Image
Then I cut a template out of some old hard board I had
Image
Then I took a dremel and ground out the original holes for the instruments, and cut new holes in the template

Then I set the Autometer gauges in their respective holes to see how they looked.
Image
Also, if you look at the left hand side, you can see where "I think" I'm going to put the Vintage Air controls. They are the 3 round things over there. I looked at putting a vent there, but a round one would be a different size from the gauges and a rectangular one would fit, but I didn't think it looked right.

I'm thinking about using the rectangular vents where the original ash tray and analog clock went, either side of the radio. I'm still thinking about this and will post up a sketch soon to see what others may think. I'm almost settled in on individual vents under the dash on either side for a total of 4 AC vents.

I also assembled the radiator/electric fans. I'm using the original radiator rebuilt to work with the 5.3.
Image
Mdcptman stopped by and helped me test fit this rig. Fit great, plenty of room. I'll install it after I finish looking at the wiring, replace the AC compressor and get the power steering lines all hooked up. So not soon.
Robert

Nikkormat
Posts: 3623
Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:45 pm
Location: Salt Lake City

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Nikkormat »

That's a contour fan you're running right?
Gabe, "reformed" Jeep hoarder.

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

I used the stock radiator in my ls swap. You can use an upper hose from a 2000 Yukon xl and with a little trimming it fits the stock radiator across the motion to the 5.3.

If you wanna save the expense of having the stock radiator fixed.

Also if you sit with the ac on in 100 deg weather you will start to over heat. Otherwise the stock is fine. I tow a 4000# trailer with mine

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

OK, had to do something different. My brain hurts from wiring. So I picked these up Friday.

Image

They are a little darker without all the light, so should work well with black carpet and the maroon dash with the black dash pad. They are quite comfortable, which was my first consideration. Laura convinced me the colors would work, I was thinking all black for the interior, except for the painted surfaces which are maroon.

I'm not sure the center seat/arm rest will work yet, but if it does, it will be a nice addition.
Robert

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

What did those Conner out of? They look awesome

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

Second row from a Honda mini van. I have to take the seat off the Honda slide and see how they look on my Jeep power stands, but the seats are very comfortable.
Last edited by Road Trip on Sun Jul 31, 2016 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Robert

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

You using them for the front or rear?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

I'm using them for the front. I got the stock slide off the center seat/armrest and put it in the Jeep for a look. I think it will work with a little bracket work. I got the slide off of the riders seat, set the Jeep electric base on it, but I need some flat bar to build a bracket to mount it. As soon as I get that done I'll post pictures of the set up.
Robert

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

Well, this weekend didn't go as planned, and as a result, this is going to be a long post!

I hooked the little power unit up to the primary power wire to the fuse box and grounded it to the motor/frame/body through the ground I built. Turned it on, and NOTHING! Not a faint glow from a dome light, nothing! Bummed and lost again!

So I went on to other things that have to be done.

First, since I had new seats, I built brackets and mounted them!

Image

Image

These are not mounted permanently, in fact, the seats are already in the house to keep them clean until ready. The Jeep seat power seat bases need to be cleaned and painted, as do the brackets I built. The brackets are made from 1/8" x 3" plate. I ran it back to front under the seat with 2 bolts to the seat, and then the two bolts it to the Jeep bases. They were solid. I used the power amp to lower and back them into the position, called Laura out and she sat in the riders seat and declared it "comfy". So the seats pass. The center section is very tight to the two seats, but it works. I had to modify the inside trim pieces to get it all to fit. But fit it does, and the seats are comfortable. Since I was making brackets anyway, I moved the drivers seat a little further back on its bracket for a little more leg room. Worked great.

While we were sitting in the Jeep, I was told that "I like the open back end. I don't want a seat there." So thinking about a "Woody" style now.

Since I couldn't do electrical, I had the local hydraulic hose guys add a joint in one of the power steering hoses so I could move it around a little to hook it up. Worked and all the power steering hoses are not installed.

Then I started on the wiring again. I tried to get the excess wire above the fuse box and out of the way. It's better, but not there yet. While I was there I realized the speaker wires from the rear end that were run underneath with the other wires were too short, so I added some to them and bundled all the speaker wires and stereo power, etc up and stuffed it through the radio slot.

While laying under the dash, I noticed that the TCC brake switch was not wired up. So I ran down the wires for it and found both Painless and PSI have wires and neither have instructions that make sense. I have emailed them both asking which wire goes to what connection, since the TCC brake switch uses 2 - 2 prong plugs. The diagram from PSI is not very helpful and Painless said nothing about it.

So I quit on the wiring again. That led me to the dash unit. I had started laying it out earlier and got sidetracked. I have the holes for the 3 gauge clusters shown in an earlier post, but I have 6 lights (2-turns, high beams, MIL, parking brake and seat belt) to install in it and I still had to decide where to put the controls for the Vintage Air (VA). I got my mock up dash out and studied the VA catalog and decided to put 4 vents under the dash. It looks a lot like the stock unit, except for the controls, which I decided to put where the heater controls were on the original dash. This will require a new face be built for the dash cluster as I have to cover up the old slots for the heater. I also laid out the 6 lights and found a fabricator who can make the overlay.

Since I was on the AC, I finally used measurements from a member who has already installed one, and I got the mock up VA unit mounted under the dash. I'm not sure if all the duct work will work like I'm thinking, but that is for another day.

Then to finish out the day, I filed paperwork from what has already been done. When I get my answers from Painless and PSI, I'll try the electrical again, and I hope it goes better. This learning as you go is tough!
Robert

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

Front is your normal brake circuit.

Rear front is to ignition hot, rear rear is to c12 tcc circuit

I could attach the photo here but click here and scroll to pic

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... p?t=559504


Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

Pics of seat brackets?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

GaJeep94YJ, thanks for the info on the brake switch. Do you know what Pin c12 is? I'm guessing it comes from the ECM and I will be calling PSI up on Friday when I have some time to spend on the Jeep to see what they say.

As for pics of the brackets, I will post some after they are painted. Pretty simple really, I just cut the 1/4" x 4" to fit inside the trim on the seat and then drilled the front and back holes. Once that was done I had them upside down and I marked the holes for the Jeep base. Drilled those and the seats were in. I set the center arm rest in position and it misses the original armrest holes by about 1". I have not fab'd those brackets yet, but they should be pretty easy once I get back on them.
Robert

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

It'll probably be labeled TCC

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

GaJeep94YJ
Posts: 313
Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by GaJeep94YJ »

C1 refers to the original harness connectors. It goes back to blue pin 33 on the PCM

http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

OK, no pics today, just a rundown of what was done.

Still working on electrical, but after a couple of calls to PSI and Painless, I did get the NSS and the TCC wired up. That felt good as the TCC in particular was causing me some concern.

Then I got the door locks, power windows, fuel pump, park lights, brake lights, blinkers and rear window all to work using power through the fuse box under the hood, through a 70 amp maxi fuse and on to the Painless fuse box in the cab. That was a trick, wiring the alternator with 2 wires, one directly to the in cab fuse box and the other to the 70 amp fuse, with another Painless wire coming off that same leg of the 70 amp fuse going back to the in cab fuse box and tying to the wire that came off the alternator just before the fuse box.

By the way, it helps to have the key on when testing some of that stuff. A real stupid moment when you realize stuff you were sure should work won't, and you are sitting at lunch when you realize - turn the key on!

Used up all my heat shrink tape, so called it quits for now.
Robert
User avatar

glake
Posts: 177
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:57 pm
Location: Escondido, CA

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by glake »

Just read through your thread. Great job. I really like the color, and, of course, those seats! :-bd
1970 Jeep Gladiator: Daily Driver!
1963 Jeep Wagoneer: In progess
1972 Jeep Wagoneer: waiting in the wings

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

Well, the saga of the wayward rearview is over.

Image

Yes, it really was 82 in the shop this afternoon.

For those who don't know, I was using a battery charger to power the fuse box since I had made so many working connections, the little 7 amp power unit was overloaded. The issue was that I had power to the mirror, but it wouldn't work. I switched back to the power unit, pulled a bunch of fuses from things I know are working, and sure enough, the powers that be were right, it works.

I'm told that a battery charger is NOT the way to check stuff. So I'm back to writing down what I've checked and pulling fuses so as to not overload the power unit.

Next was something that I've really been putting off. I mean with the body on the frame, and BOTH painted, who wants to cut on the frame, close to the body.

Image

Well, if you are going to use a 3 piece bumper, there is no choice.

Image

Me and a little HF air metal saw worked for close to 2 hours and used 3 blades, but it's done. Now I have to paint the end and it's ready for the bumper when I get more electrical done. BTW, NO SCRATCHES ON THE PAINT!

Now for a new lesson. I got the Serehill tailgate harness. I like the remote for the rear window. So I hooked it up per instructions, except for one little detail. I wanted to use the NOS switch I got from this site.

Image

Well, once I hooked the NOS switch up, the remotes would just make the relays in back click, but nothing else. So I called Rick. We talked and he said you have a ground short. I did have the ground hooked up like the stock switch, so I cut it off at the plug. Still shorted out. So we talked some more. He said he had a switch at home and when he got back he would look into it.

So I got to thinking. I may not be the smartest, but I can be taught. Rick gave me a lesson in grounded switches, so I pulled the switch apart, and sure enough, the ground plug on the back of the switch (the one by itself on top in the phhoto) has a ground bar inside that causes the up and down wires to be grounded to one another in the stock switch.

Image

Once apart, I drilled out the single ground pin and that removed the ground bar inside the switch.

Image

That is the ground on the left and the ground pin on the right. Without the ground, the switch is a positive to the up OR a positive to the down. I used some 5.5MM screws to secure the switch to the metal frame. You can just make them out holding the top of the switch to the metal bracket.

Image

The back window now works with either the dash switch or the remote.

Here is a new one for you. ON the rear window defroster "can" (I don't know what it really does, but the defrost wires go through it) there is a single pin. What is it for?

Image

Mine doesn't look like it was ever hooked up to anything.

I have my Hella headlights and some Superbright leds in now.
Image

Quite pleased with them.

__________________
Robert

Topic author
Road Trip
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 8:46 am
Location: Bryan, Texas

Re: Meet Road Trip

Post by Road Trip »

Progress is slow, but it is progress.
Image
Yes, that is a 3rd brake light. Had to make a bracket, and have not figured out how to work it into the headliner (I will gladly figure that out, as that will be the last thing I do before I declare RT finished), but I think it is going to look and work well.
Robert
Post Reply