Meet Flip, 1974 Wagoneer Custom

[Flip]

Cool! If you need anything from the 74 TSM lemme know. Glad it ended up with someone who is going to put this much work into it.

Thank you very much!
I downloaded the tsm from Tom Collin's web page. It has been a great help. Just printing out pages as needed. By the time I'm done, I'll probably have the whole thing printed out... lol

****

Well, I couldn't find a place yesterday to make up the new hoses for the transmission. But there is a pretty good hose/radiator shop that I should be able to stop by this Friday. Appears to be 1/4" NPT male brass at the radiator, and 3/8" inverted flare female mating to the steel transmission cooler lines.
Parker still has these fittings in brass, so I'm hoping the shop can make the new hoses to look OEM.
So this coming weekend will tell how the engine/transmission is. Then the next steps will get figured out.

[Dr. Marneaus]

Sorry about your caonpy! haha.


I take it you didn't get it fired up aside from the initial ATF hemorrhaging instance?

[Renodemona]

Hey, great progress there!

[Flip]

Sorry about your caonpy! haha.


I take it you didn't get it fired up aside from the initial ATF hemorrhaging instance?

You know for all the damage the canopy could have caused, it ended up harmlessly blowing over the Jeep.

Yeah, still have to get the hoses made. Hoping to do that Friday.

[Flip]

Hey, great progress there!

Thanks!

Definitely looking forward to getting into the heavy work soon.

[Flip]

Some good news today.

local shop was able to make new transmission cooler lines. They are 1/4" NPT male on the radiator side, and 3/8" female inverted flare on the line side.
As you can see these aren't exact duplicates, which is the difference between building a #3 driver, versus a #2 or #1 driver. Still with some cloth/vinyl black paint, they look "the part". Most important the fittings are Parker, and the hose is industrial rated, so they will last a very long time.
As made:


With a bit of cloth/vinyl paint


So with that done, it was time to get some good run time, and see how things suss out... Had to add 5 quarts of trans fluid, along with a quart of K&W Trans-X which will help clean up the valve body, and soften the seals from sitting.

Here are a couple of videos from today.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHQF_yejaOI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOWJltkvKAk

Something is bound up in the steering. It gets a full 1.75 turns to the right, but only about 1/2 turn to the left. Pump is noisy as well, and i added a cup to cup and a half of Power Steering Fluid. So that is going to need some attention as well.

Next step is to order brake parts this week. When it all comes apart for the brakes, the steering will get inspected/repaired... or more parts ordered for repair. lol
May go ahead and pull the differential covers off to get a look at the gears, check back lash. I know they used this rig to pull a horse trailer. I may need to do some work back there. Definitely need to replace the fluid, and flush things out anyway.

One of these days it will be time do tear down and restore... roflol.
I'm looking forward to the first "test drive".

[nightglide]

Awesome!

[Renodemona]

Glunk isn't too bad. That's very typical of QT rigs. The output shaft is only 10 splines so there is a lot of play going into the big sun gear in the QT. Definitely change the fluid in the QT with new TCL-1 before you drive. The fluid breaks down over time and separates and it will shred the cones pretty quickly if they get dry. Awesome, Awesome work so far! What's the compression like on #7?

[Flip]

Awesome!

Thanks!
This is a big load off my mind.

[Flip]

Glunk isn't too bad. That's very typical of QT rigs. The output shaft is only 10 splines so there is a lot of play going into the big sun gear in the QT. Definitely change the fluid in the QT with new TCL-1 before you drive. The fluid breaks down over time and separates and it will shred the cones pretty quickly if they get dry. Awesome, Awesome work so far! What's the compression like on #7?

Thank you for the reminder on the transfer case.
It will definitely get changed before driving. That would have been an expensive mistake.
The clunk reminds me of the old Ford automatics that used type F fluid. lol

#7 plug had signs of an overly rich idle, but the insulator was a light brown, and tip looked good. No oil spotting.

I haven't run compression/leak down test yet. Need to get some run time on the rings/cylinder walls. The carb rebuild should limit oil contamination, then a good flush on the engine with fresh oil in place and some ZDDP additive.
Once that is done, the tests should be an accurate representation. Will probably do that before installing the Air Injection system though, just to make life easier.
Hoping worse case scenario is replacing the valve seals. It was rebuilt about 30K miles ago with all standard sized parts. So if need be, it could always go first oversize.

[Flip]

I "may" have found the cause of the leaking fuel when filling the tank. lol
Still need to drop the tank, so that all the hoses can be replaced though.

Now to find out if anyone makes a replacement. BJs Offroad only shows up to '72.

[Renodemona]

That's, ah, different...

[Nikkormat]

If you figure something out for the hoses let us all know. I've ben looking for a few years.

[Dr. Marneaus]

Scott, that's awesome! Sounds like it's running pretty dang well! I'm sure as you said with fresh oil and additives thighs should quiet down and smooth out. I'm excited to see it fired up!!!

Soooooo I have a bunch of stuff you could use to fix your fuel system.

I have a filler neck, I have some crazy industrial 2" filler hose if need be, I have all the nylon lines and the vapor check valve, etc. I also have a complete gas tank if yours is indeed leaking.

[Flip]

life of a ranch rig! lol
I've seen a lot worse.
After unwrapping the Duct Tape, and the electrical tape underneath, it appears the neck is probably OK. Looks like bottom hose has hardened up and slipped down. That part is available for a reasonable price from BJs Offroad.
So when the tank is dropped, it can be replaced.



Got the carb disassembled and cleaning in thinner. That's about the best we can get here for cleaning carburetors in California. So it will sit with the air pump agitating the thinner through tomorrow, and assembly will hopefully be tomorrow night.

I miss the good old carb cleaning machine, with the solvent that would kill brain cells just by looking at it...
This is my $10 alternative. The hose usually lasts about one cleaning, and the pump about four or five cleanings. But a 6' length of hose is only a couple of bucks, and the pump is about $10.
A motor that vibrates, strapped to the container works even better. But they are more expensive.

[Flip]

Scott, that's awesome! Sounds like it's running pretty dang well! I'm sure as you said with fresh oil and additives thighs should quiet down and smooth out. I'm excited to see it fired up!!!

Soooooo I have a bunch of stuff you could use to fix your fuel system.

I have a filler neck, I have some crazy industrial 2" filler hose if need be, I have all the nylon lines and the vapor check valve, etc. I also have a complete gas tank if yours is indeed leaking.

Thanks Andrew!
Very happy with how good the engine sounds.
I'll keep you posted on how the fuel system comes out. Sincerely appreciate the offer.

[Flip]

Finally got the carb done. Will get it installed tomorrow morning.
Spent half the week soaking in Thinner, and the other half the week between carb clean and PB Blaster to try and get the choke piston to free up.
Ended up having to pop the Welch plug, and tap the piston up out of the bore.
Once it was out, the bore and piston cleaned up great, and now it works very well. But man, that was a lot of work!
Hoping this helps with cold start up and driving.

They should include that plug in the rebuild kit. The other thing the kit is missing is the air cleaner seal gasket. So I need to see if I can find one, in all my old stuff. The kit is Napa's Echlin brand, which are normally very good kits. The components they did provide are definitely top quality. Just surprised not to get those two parts in the kit.

Dirty carb:


Clean carb:

[Tatsadasayago]

Looking good!
By the way, the air cleaner gasket is a common one, cheap and not hard to find.
I buy them from summitracing when I purchase Holley bowl gaskets.

[Flip]

Thanks,
Yeah, I ended up picking up a Felpro felt gasket at O'Reillys for a couple of bucks. I *think* that will match the OEM gasket.
Carb is working great. Just set the mixture needles to 1.5 turns out, set choke spring to standard. Started and runs well.
not something I can really take credit for, as this is such a simple carb, but happy none the less.
So once the engine is dialed in, I'll go back through the full setup procedure on the carb.

Now if I could just get my videographer skills to match the way the engine runs...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bhI4B5i3E0

None of the auto parts stores in town have room in the oil recycle tanks, so the oil change will have to wait a week.
All the parts are in to do the brake job. Hoping to tackle that next weekend. Will clean, inspect-replace the front wheel bearings at the same time.

[Flip]

I've been thinking about the bottom side of the body/frame. A lot of the original undercoating is cracking/peeling off.
Debating on seeing if there is a local blasting place that has a lift, and can just do the bottom side without a total disassemble.
Maybe pull drive train for cleanup, along with fuel tank and exhaust system.
Really don't want to put this on a rotisserie, but it's going to need some love on the bottom to match the rest of the work...
Just totaled the parts-vehicle cost so far. It's a bit over $4,125. So this is going to need to be a very clean build to get a decent donation value.