Wilderness Gladiator

[BigJ200]

Now that sounds like a very good plan!!

[Clean Racing]

OK im still in suspense for the pictures of the link and coil over set up. I am still mired in wiring the LS and the rest of the truck. And cleaning up since after 3 years, I am loosing the shop I rent to work on my Jtruck.

[BigJ200]

Ok,

Here are some photos of my new front 4 link coil over long arm suspension.

I started this conversion by changing out the front and rear Dana 60 axles. Although they worked fine and were well-built, they were narrowed quite a bit. They were robbed from my Willys wagon originally. And in order to convert to a 4 link coil over setup, I had to go full width. So, I located another kingpin Dana 60 housing and transferred all the good stuff over including the 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker along with everything from the knuckles outward. It's all still very new. I did make the decision at this time to convert to 8 lug. Simple change. I just went to the junk yard and bought 2 more Ford F250 Dana 50 hubs for $17 each. Then I bought 2 new 77 Chevy 3/4 ton 8 lug rotors. I already have 77 3/4 ton calipers, so no change there. I also bought 2 new caliper brackets from TMR. All set then. Only this time, I didn't feel like spending the extra $$ for inner chromoloy shafts. I already had a nice set of OEM 35 spline inners. So, I just bought stock Spicer U-joints and put it all together with the extra set of 35 spline chromo outers I had. I didn't want to change back to stock locking hubs. I already have 35 spline Warn hubs. All set.. I set up the ring and pinion and put it all back together.

The front axle received an Artec Truss. I welded that all together along with Artec lower link brackets. Very nice products and great prices. The truss was $170. Can't beat that. The upper axle brackets, all the frame brackets and link rod ends are from RuffStuff. Again, nice parts.















At the same time, I wanted to swap in a rear Dana 80 that I already own. But there are no 4.56 gears available for it. Strange. So, I located a 2004 Chevy rear 14 bolt axle with factory disc brakes. Great price and even came with the factory limited slip differential. A Detroit in front and a LS in back, I can still go everywhere I need to go. I stripped the 14 bolt completely down and rebuilt it all brand new. New bearings, seals, rotors, calipers and 4.56 R&P... I primed it with POR15 and painted it green like the rest of the body. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.







I built longer tie rods and used the same rod ends I already had. I plan to swap everything over to 1 ton TRE's. I'm burned out on using rod ends for steering. I think tie rod ends are much tighter. Just an observation.

[Stuka]

Came out nice. And yes, TRE's are certainly better for steering. The last way longer and wont induce death wobble like solid rod ends/heims will.

Do you actually have enough triangulation up front to not need a track bar? I have personally never seen a front coil suspension without a track bar for road use. Buggies sure, but not for the street. Front end still moves side to side on the ones I have seen.

Does the truck seem to have ok power with those tires and only having 4.56 gears? Trans temps stay ok and such?

[BigJ200]

Yea, most are 3 links mainly because of room. And the 4 links are not triangulated much. So they need a track bar. I have lots of triangulation and tons of room. Mainly because my Jeep is tall. It doesn't move at all side to side. It drives straight as an arrow and handles mountain roads and corners quite amazingly. The steering wheel stays perfectly still. Kind of surprised me how much of an improvement it is over what I had before. I still need to install my drop pitman arm to level out the drag link better. And the TRE's are next.

Here's the top view of my links from the 4 link calculator.



This thing has tons of power. It launches with little effort too. It's very peppy. I had the ECM tuned recently and it made a huge difference. But the trans wouldn't lock up as easy. So it started getting hotter than normal. So with one small adjustment in the tuning it is right on the money. The trans runs at 180-195 most everywhere with 200-215 occasionally on big long hill climbs.

[ClovisMan]

Yep...I knew I shouldn't have opened this thread.

Completely awe-struck by the J200's shear awesomeness.

[BigJ200]

Finally ready to start building bumpers. It's been a long time coming. FSJ's are not easy to design bumpers for to make them look right. But after months of measuring and drawing, drawing, drawing I finally have a style that really looks fantastic.

BTW, I want to let you all know that the American Vintage 4x4 electric step is going to be available very soon. The prototype and testing phase is underway. This is a totally new electric step made specifically for FSJ's. It will be available in 2 different lengths for 4-6" lifts and for those rigs like mine that are even taller. It is a very strong rugged steel step that looks fantastic. Open the door and it drops down. Close the door and it retracts and is completely hidden up under the floor. This has been a very exciting product to design. It is a complete bolt on kit with everything needed for a clean install.

Pictures and video coming soon!!

[MadMax78]

Wow! Awesome ride! I'm jealous. I am very interested in the new electric step you mentioned. Is it just for trucks or will it fit Cherokees and Wags as well?

[MadMax78]

Wow! Awesome ride! I'm jealous. I am very interested in the new electric step you mentioned. Is it just for trucks or will it fit Cherokees and Wags as well?

[BigJ200]

Thanks! Glad you like my Jeep.

Yes, the steps will be for all FSJ's. Trucks, Wagoneers and Cherokees.

[DeepAboveSurface]

Dude, this truck is amazing! I keep staring at it like its porn ...

[Tatsadasayago]

Dude, this truck is amazing! I keep staring at it like its porn ...

I'm glad you said that! Now I don't feel so guilty...

[MadMax78]

Awesome. I want/need the step for the Cherokee. Family has a hard time getting in and out.

[DeepAboveSurface]

Dude, this truck is amazing! I keep staring at it like its porn ...

I'm glad you said that! Now I don't feel so guilty...

LOL, i Had to take another peek before my Pharmacology test...

[Tatsadasayago]

Hehehe!

PeeWee Herman could drive his truck and instill fear in others.
It looks like a Rottweiler all pumped up getting ready to eat something or someone.

[lil jeep mec]

So i plan on four linking my j10 front and rear, so if im not mistaking you just used double triangulated 4 link on the front? Without a panhard bar or a track bar, is bump steer an issue? How did you calculate the 4 link?

[BigJ200]

Yes, it is a triangulated 4 link with no track bar. Bump steer is nonexistent. It drives straight and true. It does not squat or rise up under power or braking. All in all it is very well balanced. I used the four link calculator that everyone uses to see where the geometry ended up. There aren't many options in front, so there isn't much figuring to do. Triangulation is critical to make this work. Vertical separation is also very important.

[AwesomeJ10]

OMG how did I miss this! Very, very impressive.

What calculator did you use and how do you use it?

[lil jeep mec]

I will probably be in contact with you for advise when the tkme comes, Thank you!

[BigJ200]

Call anytime. (208) 863-1718

Always happy to help.