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You can always add a second gauge for the aux tank, if the sender does not work with the factory gauge. That seems like a more sensible addition than a convertor. I've thought about how to convert resistance ranges, and I think you could do it with a transistor and a few resistors. The difficulty would be the development time you'd need to make the circuit.

tgreese wrote:You can always add a second gauge for the aux tank, if the sender does not work with the factory gauge. That seems like a more sensible addition than a convertor. I've thought about how to convert resistance ranges, and I think you could do it with a transistor and a few resistors. The difficulty would be the development time you'd need to make the circuit.

My rear tank setup will be completely replacing my factory fuel tank. I am liking the late '80s-early '90s Ford Econoline van rear tanks. Their sending units match up with our '73-'85 gauges, have in tank fuel pumps to work with my soon-to-be Holley fuel injection, and hopefully fit where the factory spare tire would go.

IIRC the in-tank pump for these applications is low pressure, and must be supplemented by a high pressure pump mounted externally. Look at the listings and you'll see two pumps for a single application.

Not a problem, but a little more complicated than the in-tank Chevy or Jeep setup.

tgreese wrote:IIRC the in-tank pump for these applications is low pressure, and must be supplemented by a high pressure pump mounted externally. Look at the listings and you'll see two pumps for a single application.

Not a problem, but a little more complicated than the in-tank Chevy or Jeep setup.

You are correct. But the pumps mounted to those sending units are standard semi-universal pump. My plan is to swap it out with a higher pressure model from Walbro or Aeromotive.