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Lobie, do you have a write-up of that install? What year tank did you use? How many gallons is it? How is it plumbed? What pump are you running? Did you add/fabricate any cross members?
-Jonny B.
1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
7" lift, 35x12.5x15
AMC 401 - Pro-FLo 4 FI
NV4500/NWFBB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker
1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
1979 Wagoneer - Sold
1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed
1980 Cherokee wrangled & mangled
MSD complete system
Eddy intake
Holley 650
Comp cam 270H
4" Rusty's
Ramsey 12K winch
208
Built to drive not sit in the garage.
No longer strangled. I didn't build it for anyone else.
If you can't improve it why waste your time?
1972 Dodge Demon with a 451" stroker Big Block
1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer AMC 360" AKA Golddigger- SOLD
2003 Dodge Crewcab 2500 Cummins longbed 4x4
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee V-6 full time 4x4
Alternators, winches, 4x4, guns all have the same issue if you don't have any knowledge of them usually bad things will happen. Serehill
So I think I'm gonna go with the XJ tank. Can anyone tell me what the two small holes on top are for?
1972 Dodge Demon with a 451" stroker Big Block
1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer AMC 360" AKA Golddigger- SOLD
2003 Dodge Crewcab 2500 Cummins longbed 4x4
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee V-6 full time 4x4
Alternators, winches, 4x4, guns all have the same issue if you don't have any knowledge of them usually bad things will happen. Serehill
Thanks Jepht20. I am gonna try to put in a rollover vent. I guess I'll just weld them up if I get that tank.
1972 Dodge Demon with a 451" stroker Big Block
1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer AMC 360" AKA Golddigger- SOLD
2003 Dodge Crewcab 2500 Cummins longbed 4x4
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee V-6 full time 4x4
Alternators, winches, 4x4, guns all have the same issue if you don't have any knowledge of them usually bad things will happen. Serehill
They are vapor vents. So the fuel doesn't get pressurized and soak you, the gas pump, your truck and the person in the next row over with dangerous gas vapors and liquid.
RCI makes a 20 gallon aluminum tig welded street fuel cell with a sender, fill, and three line ports 30x17x7 (l x w x d). My measurements show 32x26x10 being the largest possible not accounting for rubbing. 26 is in between shock mounts. Anyone disagree with my measurements?
Cell http://www.jegs.com/i/RCI/821/2172A/10002/-1
1972 Dodge Demon with a 451" stroker Big Block
1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer AMC 360" AKA Golddigger- SOLD
2003 Dodge Crewcab 2500 Cummins longbed 4x4
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee V-6 full time 4x4
Alternators, winches, 4x4, guns all have the same issue if you don't have any knowledge of them usually bad things will happen. Serehill
I went with the 19gal F150 tank when I did the LT1 swap. I believe it was from a mid-90's truck. I do wish I had gone to something with a little more range, but didn't want the tank hanging down too far. This one tucks nicely. We did trim a little off the lip on the sides of the tank, but no leak issues. i may change it one of these days.
One day I will wake up and realize that my jeep is complete...one day, I just know it.
88Wag, LT1/4L60E/NP242, J20 axles, etc. http://imgbox.com/g/rNuIasKYrS
95YJ, STaK, D44's, SOA, ARB's, Bilstein 5150s, 35" KM2's
50 CJ3A
77 J-10 (sold)
wewillsurvive wrote:Looing into this, what do you do if you are running a carb?
I simply pulled the in tank pump assembly (it's connected to the sending unit), cut the pump off and extended the pickup tube down to about 1/2" off the bottom of the tank (section of fuel line, 2 hose clamps, short section of 3/8" ID AL tube).
I did go back in to check it last fall when I thought I was having some fuel delivery issues but it was fine and has been fine for over 9 years that way.
if running a carb, can you leave the in-tank fuel pump and block off the mech. fuel pump with a plate? Would this work or would you need to install pressure regulator?
wewillsurvive wrote:Looing into this, what do you do if you are running a carb?
I simply pulled the in tank pump assembly (it's connected to the sending unit), cut the pump off and extended the pickup tube down to about 1/2" off the bottom of the tank (section of fuel line, 2 hose clamps, short section of 3/8" ID AL tube).
I did go back in to check it last fall when I thought I was having some fuel delivery issues but it was fine and has been fine for over 9 years that way.
if running a carb, can you leave the in-tank fuel pump and block off the mech. fuel pump with a plate? Would this work or would you need to install pressure regulator?
ah...I see its a internal FI pump, so once pressurized can you correct for pressure with regulator? Sorry, I'm not that familiar with Fuel injection systems...
I'm doing the suburban 33 gallon tank. Since I had the filler opening closed up before painting the truck I am trying to figure out the best way to mount a filler tube preferable inside the bed. Those of you that have the rear tanks, what did you do? Thanks.
1980 J10/20
Rusty's 4" lift, 2" body lift, old Cliffhanger front bumper, 35" tires, 65 dash w Speedhut gauges.
Xtrusion Overland rack system, Tepui tent, 1/2 decked system.
LONG time member of ifsja.org, FSJ-List and some others...
wewillsurvive wrote:Looing into this, what do you do if you are running a carb?
I simply pulled the in tank pump assembly (it's connected to the sending unit), cut the pump off and extended the pickup tube down to about 1/2" off the bottom of the tank (section of fuel line, 2 hose clamps, short section of 3/8" ID AL tube).
I did go back in to check it last fall when I thought I was having some fuel delivery issues but it was fine and has been fine for over 9 years that way.
if running a carb, can you leave the in-tank fuel pump and block off the mech. fuel pump with a plate? Would this work or would you need to install pressure regulator?
A block off plate for a big block chevy fits nicely over the stock fuel pump hole in the timing cover.
Fuel injection needs either ~15psi for TBI or 40-60 for port injection. You would need a pressure regulator to drop down to the 4-6psi that a carburetor wants. Preferably a bypass regulator so you get a constant flow of fuel, cooling and lubricating the pump.
I used a bj's alum tank. Its a good unit though the in tank fuel pump is real real loud. 24 gallons
90 Fsj. 5.3, 4l65,241. 4" lift, Custom valved Bilstien 5125 Shocks, Dakota Digital Dash, Bjs Radiator, Bjs aluminum tank,Viper remote start, power door locks, one touch rear window. Ac, Cruise, tow haul all work as they should. Fully restored oem wheels.
I picked up a zj tank (23gallons, poly, with steel skid, receiver hitch, and straps) locally and ready to get started with the install. It's going on my 1963 wagoneer with Ford 240 six swap, carbureted. I'll be diving into some research for fuel pressure, gauge setup, etc. as far as fitment it's the same as a late model XJ tank, the width between the rails for the entire setup is a direct fit to the rear rails on the early waggie.
Anybody with details on how to make this swap work are encouraged to post up, I'm a total newbie when it comes to this kind of mod. Mostly I've just welded stuff (and not very well at that!) on my 2001 XJ.