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I searched and did not see a thread on this yet. I am looking for hood venting ideas. The simpler the better. I have a 11/16" greenlee punch I have used to make 3 holes on each side of the hood along the edge of the raised section. The are also two 3/8" holes in between the 11/16" holes. Don't ask why I did it this way because I can't come up with something reasonable to say about that. I am thinking the next step is to place at least 10 of these just in front of the hood frame that runs along the back end of the hood near the windshield, 5 each side of center of the hood.
Isn't there a punch you can buy (HF maybe?) to punch louvers into the hood one at a time? Which grille ya got on there now? I've always wondered if cutting large holes in the header panel behind where the rhino pie plates go would help any. Might not work on the boobie grille but might just do it on everything else.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
I have also thought the header panel would be the best place to get more air in. Got the bOObie on Wally now. I am going to also cut the wrapped area on the edge back by the hinges. I have seen a few cut there with good results.
louvers will let some heat out, but don't expect any huge difference. You need to move more volume and the small slots don't help enough. The best way to drop under hood temps is with a cowl induction hood. Which can be made if you have another hood laying around and a welder. If you are going to use louvers, place them as close to the firewall as you can.
It's not a lot of area but it sure moves some air out.
I think rstep's with the mesh welded into the hood is the best looking one I have seen.
A collection of 1966 to 1986 parts. Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
Caddy425/TH400/Atlas 4spd/14B/D60/locked front and rear/Hydroassist/39.5 Irocks (Join date = Friday the 13th)
Thanks for the pix. I'm definitely going to cut the hood by the hinges like Tad's. Before that I thought I would use some of Casey's NASA material and move the filter over near the master cylinder for a different route. The filter used to be behind the PS pump near stock location.
The NASA sock was given to me by Casey. It is astronaut suit like material. Supposed to deflect heat. Probably should have it on the incoming and return lines down to the frame too. The last time I had bad vapor lock issues on the highway about 5 years ago, the open element air cleaner fixed the problem. It had the stock snorkel unit up until then.
Didn't get to drive it today. I am thinking of going with a flex fan too.
If you do any low speed crawling do not consider a flex fan. Since they flatted out based on engine speed rather than vehicle speed. So you could be at 2500rpm but only 5-10mph and end up over heating.
Here's a thought that may or may not work. What about using a small trans cooler mounted behind the grille with the fuel return line running thru it? I imagine the stock setup allows the fuel returning to the tank to heat up pretty good and after a few cycles it's gotta be pretty hot, right?
EDIT:
On second thought this might not work so well for low speed crawling.
82 J10
77 J10 Golden Eagle 401
88 GW
You know it's bad when your car is on the EPA's 10 most wanted list!
I've never had good luck with flex fans.
I've ran direct drive since about 2003 on the Buick, loud as heck at 70mph.
I'm hoping the HD GM Motorhome clutch that I got onto the Caddy engine will be adequate.
A collection of 1966 to 1986 parts. Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
Caddy425/TH400/Atlas 4spd/14B/D60/locked front and rear/Hydroassist/39.5 Irocks (Join date = Friday the 13th)
I made one side of my hood vent and put it on. Soon to build the other side and paint them black to blend in better. There are conflicting thoughts as if it will make a significant difference or not? We will see.
Here is what I just did. I took 2 pieces of 1"x1" and drilled holes, pulled the studs out of the hood, and secured with bolts. If it dont help, I can return it to normal.
Interesting, will be curious if that's enough of a opening to make a difference. The lip on the underside doesn't help any, but you don't want to get rid of that entirely as it help to keep the sheet metal rigid.