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Went to purchase a landcruiser... I need comfort.... just kidding... I went to help someone to purchase an all terrain vehicle with a manual transmission.... did not buy it, but found this neat little device which I thought was an underhood cooling fan or heat extraction device, after a little search, it is a carb cooling fan powered by a 30 min timer... apparently it draws little power... but neat to prevent draining the carb. It is on the 70ish to 88 carbureted land cruiser fj60 and fj40 series.
Could be neat to have one to prevent lifting up the hood... and avoid those picts with the hoods up.
from the ih8mud.com
lives on the top right...next to the clutch MC, if you think that FSJ have too much vacuum lines... Toyota beats us with a complexity that is hard to master.
In the end the righteous won, he got an XJ with the 4.0 HO, AX-15, fun to drive, that 5th speed is only an overdrive, no leaks, and it has oil. Need to flush the cooling system, there was 1/4" of slime at the bottom of the cooling expansion tank.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
The electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator seems like a better system albeit using more juice. The slush box is such a reservoir of heat, that the pusher fan running for 5 min might be the ticket.... raised hood rules.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
I put a peice of 1" square tubing between the hood and the hinges. It helps it cool down a lot faster with the BB under the hood.
Those FJ's are a trip. I did a Chevy 350 into one recently. The guy bought an OD to go between the bell and the tranny. Worked as a spacer and gave 27% od in all gears and in 4x. I have always wondered if they could build one with the FSJ patten to replace the spacer behind a V8....
jaber wrote:
Those FJ's are a trip. I did a Chevy 350 into one recently. The guy bought an OD to go between the bell and the tranny. Worked as a spacer and gave 27% od in all gears and in 4x. I have always wondered if they could build one with the FSJ patten to replace the spacer behind a V8....
Curious about that OD!
Went to see an FJ60 with the chevy conversion, and bar'd so it is legal in California, almost no emission, not even AIR system which had me wondered how much was paid to pass the smog... had a 4 barrel holley.... and 34, with the 4 speed manual... $9k was the asking , but too many little issues for the person I was helping.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Here's that unit installed on a 62 Willys Wagon. It's his dads ride, he restored it for his dad and installed the overdrive... He said it was the best mod he'd done.
Here's the shifter mechanism... I think.
I'd love one on the 66, or the 62... Too rich for my blood and pocket book, but I'd still love one!
I highly doubt that little fan would move enough air to be of any use at all. Would be far better off with a cowl induction hood. Or like jabber did, add some spacers.
The Ranger over drive is pretty cool. Especially in older jeeps that have super deep gearing.
That's pretty neat. Sounds like the kind of mod I'd try.
If you build a shroud around the carb and a cold air intake for the fan, it could work very well, otherwise it's not going to do much. Carburetors mainly cool themselves with the air flowing through them while running. The other plan is getting the heat out from under the hood.
Honestly hot soak fuel boil is the only complaint I have about carburetors...and Oxygenated Ethanol gas.
It gets really bad when you're traveling across the desert in 100+ degree heat and the carburetor starts to boil even when running. Downshifting to get more CFM flowing through it helps a little, but a cold air intake is the only way. First sign of an overheating carburetor is hesitation off the line, because the accelerator pump shot vaporizes as it passes through the small passages before it even reaches the throttle bores. As things heat up worse, the engine will lean out, overheat, ping, lose power, and eventually start cutting out and backfiring.
You can run all the insulating carb spacers and heat shields you want, but after about 1/2 inch, more doesn't make any difference. It just delays the inevitable, because even the air surrounding the carb is enough to overheat it. It's 100 degrees outside, the A/C condenser raises that to 140, and the radiator raises that to at least 200. The hot engine block can take that up to 300 very quickly. Eventually the heat will soak into the carburetor.
The only way to completely solve hot fuel issues is fuel injection. Pressurizing the fuel raises the boiling point.
