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Ive had a 'tick' in my top end lately so decided to check it out today and replace the pushrods while I had it opened up. As expected #6 had a BENT pushrod.
But what's puzzling me is the wear pattern on the exhaust valve rotators. It looks like the valve stem is too deep into the rotator and this has polished the inner edge of the rotator and worn the rocker somewhat. Something's not right, any ideas?
Oh yes, I almost forgot to mention I broke the obligatory rocker bridge.
Are steel bridges still available or am I stuck with POS aluminum replacements?
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Not sure about the wear pattern on that one valve. Sounds and looks like a valve job is in order. I have changed to steel bridge on one of ours. Be generous with assembly lube when you install them.
Thanks Flint. The engine is fairly fresh, prolly about 60K on it, and it to me looks like the relationship between the valve stem/rotator/stem lock. I don't think wear would affect that relationship, but I could be wrong.
Looking around this morning I see that Sealed power makes exhaust valves with one locking groove and another with four locking grooves. Why? I wonder if this is to accommodate running valves with or without the rotator?
Welp, you fella's are of no help. I thought this is where all the experts came to hang out...
Just kidding. I'm not in the mood to pull heads as Schwag runs so strong. I think I will just massage all the exhaust rockers for clearance. If this engine was gonna bust it would have done it miles ago.
I stopped by the machine shop that rebuilt my engine back in 199X and discussed what I was seeing. Consensus was that the valve stems around the keepers were wearing and that could be the cause of the retainer wear. Although this engine was built about 15 years ago, it has relatively low mileage as it was drydocked in my garage for 10 of those years. Pulling the springs will tell...
So, IMO it begs to question the logic of using stock parts when rebuilding an engine. Scale of economy almost demands it, but if building anything above the stock spec this should be scrutinized. I now wish I knew where the build sheet was after 10+ years, a deeevorce and two moves!
Did the shop mention if its something to be concerned about immediately, or if it could go on like that for a while without the risk of blowing something up?
Although I suppose if the keeper failed, you could end up with a very loud, bad sound.
They didn't seem too concerned but I think I will pull some springs and have a look at what's going on.
All this has me thinking I should find another set of heads and build them how I want them and be done with it. Until I find something else to throw cash at!
Buttoned Schwag up last night and fired her up. Valvetrain noise is still there but missing the racket of the bent pushrod scrubbing up and down the side of the head.
So its time to build a set of heads. I'm tired of listening to the constant tick tick tick...
Heh, my J10 has had an off and on ticking for about 40k miles. But being that its getting close to 250k, I am not overly concerned with it. If it goes, just put a new engine in.
Lol if my mileage was anywhere close to ours I would take the ticking as a sign that the valvetrain was still intact!
I guess I'm a little peeved about it all.
You can change the keepers without pulling the heads. I've done it with soft rope in the cyl through the plug hole, or compressed air and my overhead spring compressor.
Yea I've replaced keepers and seals with the heads on so I am familiar with that. The problem is that its the valve stems that are wearing (speculation) as they are not hardened like the keepers. So I don't think changing the keepers is going to affect much, but correct me if I'm wrong. I would love it to be as simple as replacing keepers!
carnuck wrote:I'm wondering if maybe the wrong keepers were put on (not the first time I've seen that)
I think it deserves a look, I asked the guys at the shop about that but the answer was that there was no way they could have put the wrong locks in, of course...
Your tick might be the cam and lifters. The 258 cams were soft and wore badly.
Mine had only 81K on it when rebuilt, the lobes were much smaller than speck., most of the lifters were hollowed out on the bottom. It had a tick at times...
I believe the bridges are the same for the I6 as the 360, mine were available at NAPA.
I would look at the rocker arms, where it seems to be polishing the keeper ring. The rockers are stamped steel, I would feel that they are softer than the valve stems. if they are worn, it is a cheep replacement going with new stock rockers. I think I had thirty five dollars in rockers and bridges for the I6.
Did you measure the installed height of the springs? Were they in spec? If so then you can add a simple lash cap to the end of the valve stem and not look back. It looks to me like the valves were to short from the get go. If you had oiling issues that bad to cause that you would have more problems than that plus the engine would have had that familiar "smell of death" in it when you pulled the valve covers.
Jim