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I know the procedure is pretty straight forward but I was looking for a write up on upgrading my 89 Wag with 360. I've searched but come up empty. Is there a step by step write up anywhere on here?
Why do yo want the HEI? It functions the same electrically as the factory Motorcraft Duraspark distributor. The GM HEI module works with the Motorcraft distributor - search for "stealth HEI." The Dursapark has an upgrade path with a big cap and HEI-style wires, and a hot coil, often called the "TFI upgrade." There are plenty of stories of aftermarket HEI distributors destroying the cam gear in the engines they are installed in - there is some risk to swapping the distributor without using a matching gears. Do your homework ... plenty to read about this if you search.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
The Duraspark system in an '89 is a good system. No reason to switch to HEI. Most that switch to HEI have the rather bad Prestolite ignition from the mid 70's, or an 80's 258 with the computer controlled carb/timing.
soonerck wrote:I know the procedure is pretty straight forward but I was looking for a write up on upgrading my 89 Wag with 360. I've searched but come up empty. Is there a step by step write up anywhere on here?
There really isn't much to write up. You buy the AMC compatible HEI distributor and install it:
Take the cap off the distributor before you pull it out of the engine. Note the direction the rotor is facing and where #1 cylinder is.
Pull the distributor, coil, and ignition box.
Pull the distributor gear off the original distributor. You only need to drive out the pin holding it on.
Put the gear on the new HEI distributor. There is a chance that the distributor shaft hole won't line up with the gear as there are two configurations. If this is the case, you either back up now or you look into getting a good quality new matched set of distributor gears that involves tearing apart most of the front of the engine to swap out the cam gear. Because you always want to keep a cam and distributor gear together. If you don't, it will fail very quickly.
Put the new distributor in, getting the rotor to line up where it was before.
Get the position of the #1 cylinder approximately where it was on the old distributor and clamp it down.
Find a hot-in-start-and-run wire to power the distributor.
Attach the vacuum line.
Install the new plug wires. You'll need different ends on the distributor side for them to fit. But use straight boots on the spark plug side. Almost no one makes pre-cut wires for the AMC so you'll probably have to use a universal kit of some kind and build your own.
Swap out the plugs to a higher heat range plug. Make sure they are gapped properly to 0.045. Champion RN12YC are a good base reference to use when choosing a compatible plug.
Start the engine and make sure it runs.
Get a vacuum gauge and use it to properly set the timing for the engine.
Double check everything to make sure it's all back together right and everything is tightened down where it needs to be.
Enjoy
However, I'll also chime in with "TFI is an easier upgrade". It doesn't require pulling the distributor and it's probably cheaper, especially if you grab parts from the local parts store. I did a write up with all of the parts you need to buy here: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/TruckNorris/tfi.html
One of the problems with HEI is that aftermarket modules are not up to oem quality. To put it mildly.
If you can find a source for reliable modules, HEI works. Big If.