What's the easiest way to swap closed knuckle for open?

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SRT6
Posts: 36
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:46 am
Location: Hilton Head, SC

Re: What's the easiest way to swap closed knuckle for open?

Post by SRT6 »

I didn't see an answer to this part of the question. Assuming I find a 74-79 J-Truck, and swap over to the new axle, and mount the springs under the frame, will the Factory 72 steering all still work (shaft, steering gear, pitman arm, drag links, tie rods, etc)?
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Cecil14
Posts: 727
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:40 am

Re: What's the easiest way to swap closed knuckle for open?

Post by Cecil14 »

I've not seen both in person, but I would fully expect there to be some modification required. At very least, tie rod length.


aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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Phils67
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Joined: Sat Mar 24, 2018 3:11 pm

Re: What's the easiest way to swap closed knuckle for open?

Post by Phils67 »

Cecil14 wrote:I've not seen both in person, but I would fully expect there to be some modification required. At very least, tie rod length.


aa
I can get you measurements but might not be for a couple of days. I have early style currently and a pair of j20 setups in stock that need new ends but are straight and solid. We are getting hit with snow right now and I won't be going out in the shop til at the earliest tomorrow but I can get you the measurements. Unless someone chimes in before then. Realistically though why would you even want to keep the early style? It is tiny in comparison to the later style.
(Sorry Cecil, meant to quote the prior comment)
1967 Gladiator J2000, 1998 4.0L OBD2, T18, D20 twin sticks, D44HD/D60, Detroit lockers, 3.73s, 4wheel disc brake, FSSR, Dakota digital, etc.

Topic author
SRT6
Posts: 36
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:46 am
Location: Hilton Head, SC

Re: What's the easiest way to swap closed knuckle for open?

Post by SRT6 »

Cecil14 wrote:Another option not mentioned so far is a complete frame or chassis swap. If your body is in good shape (rare for these), you can likely find a J-10 or J-20 frame and running gear from a later model truck and just swap everything over. You may need to play around with body mounts a bit, but other than that you should be pretty set. The 360 was more or less the motor of choice (by sales figures) in the later years, so you should have little trouble dropping your motor onto a later frame, and the trans is just the cross member. If you decide to look into this route, keep in mind that the front axle went from a passenger side differential to a driver side from 1980 on.

A frame swap is a lot of work, but it's less custom work and more factory than have brackets fabricated and welded on.

aa
I appreciate the thinking outside the box!
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