Help np205 or np241c?

[Cataldo]

So I am nearing my 700r4 swap (sbc). I will not run the q trac and will run either a np205 or np241c.

The np241 is $250 and the np205 I can get for about $400.

Both are 27 spline, i know ill need a spacer for the np205 which is not bad. My concern is in rebuilding them. The np241 seems to be a bunch more to rebuild than the np205. Also the np205 has a fixed rear yoke while the np241 does not.

If I run the jbc sye kit it is 350 to 400! Plus a $150 chain and rebuild kit at about 200.

Np205 is a $100 spacer and $150 rebuild kit.

Plus there is shifters for both t cases.

What do yall recommend I do?

This is going in my 1975 Wagoneer with 33x10.5s. It will see towing and off roading. Mostly trails and some rocks.

[tgreese]

Isn't the 205 a large heavy iron-cased tc with a lousy low range ratio? The 241 is more like the 208 which Jeep used as the factory offering with manual transmissions after 1979. On first impression, I'd say 241 - it has been used successfully by other owners.

[REDONE]

Yeah, the 205 is heralded as "unbreakable", but huge and heavy. The debate about low range ratio I feel is overdone. Out of the box it's basically 2:1, but with numerous ways to increase it with 203 or proprietary "doublers" that make it a 3 range case with a low-low of 4 or 5:1.

Back to the 2:1, unless it's a competition rock buggy it's probably enough. You got a 700r4 so that increases final drive ratio over a 3 speed trans, and axle gears are better investment anyways because they take the stress off everything upstream in the power train.

Back to the holistic view, I think the 241 is going to cost less in the long run and is a better match for the Dana 44s. If you run the 205, you'll have to get creative with yokes and u-joints (yokes ain't cheap and might not be available for the what you want to do, and neither are conversion u-joints that nobody recommends in the first place), which could lead to driveshaft vibes and breakage.

If I faced your dilemma, I'd opt for the 241 and leave the 205 for someone with a mudder or buggy.

[Cecil14]

I'm planning to go with a 241. As Tim said, it's a good deal lighter (though that may not matter?), and it is likely going to be a good bit quieter as well.

Do you need a fixed rear yoke? I'm planning to just run the slip yoke that's on my t-case. I don't do any crazy articulating, so the slip yoke is very unlikely to ever cause me problems.


aa

[Stuka]

The difference between 1.97:1 and 2.62:1 is very noticeable. The only advantage of the 205 in your case is that you can physically bang it into rocks without much worry. A 241 can get holes punched in it, but easily fixed with a skid plate.

The 241 however is lighter, quieter, a lot less parasitic drag, better low range,and has been used in tons of vehicles so you can find them for cheap for many different applications. Heck, you can even find an NV241OR if you want a 4:1 low range (Although this is driver drop only). Oh, and you can shift it between 2wd and 4-high on the fly.

If it was me, I would go with the 241, put a slip yoke eliminator on it, and add a skid plate to the cross member if you truly will be in the rocks.

[Cataldo]

Thank you for the words of wisdom. I am going to go with the np 241. You all have convinced me.

Is there a cheap alternative to the jbc sye? I guess I'll google a jeep np241 sye on the chevy case.

Does the np241 need to be clocked or does it work in the stock orientation?

Will I need a sye?

Shifter recommendations?

Thanks

[Stuka]

You don't have to have a slip yoke eliminator. If you are going to be running a decent amount of lift, you may want one though.

[Cataldo]

4 inches is all I will ever run.

[MJMadness]

Personally I like either transfer case.

One thing about the NP205 is that rebuild cost might be a lot higher than it appears. They tend to mangle the bearing surface on the rear of the input gear, and that means either sending it somewhere that can 'fix' it or buying a new input gear. That bearing rides in the rear output gear, IIRC, and if it's bad enough that will be screwed too. It's one serious issue with the design, although it is entirely preventable and comes about due to people running the oil low or contaminated. Also, it's not uncommon to find other things wrong when you take them apart, just due to the fact that they tend to be so much older and their 'indestructible' reputation leads to people doing stupid stuff with them. Factor in buying new output yokes, or speedi-sleeves for them, as just about guaranteed the seal surface will be chowdered. They weigh about 140lbs wet, so about 65lbs heavier than a regular NP241. This isn't a big deal from the perspective of the total vehicle weight, but it is a big deal from the perspective of benchpressing the transfer case in and out. It's also a consideration from the perspective that they tend to cause whatever they're bolted to to crack, it's almost impossible to find a factory GM adapter that isn't broken from this. This leads to the somewhat complicated process of adding a second trans/xfer mount to take some of the weight, as you have to be careful how you do this or you can actually make things worse.

Really the reason to run a NP205 is if you want big strength for cheap, you need something that is not very long (short wheel base jeep thing), and/or you want twin sticks.

If you want a passenger drop NP241, the Dodge variants came with a fixed yoke from the factory. The 241 is much more modern in design, and a lot nicer for somebody that's mild/daily driving or just doesn't need massive strength.

[fsj454]

I am running the holy grail of 205s 32 front 32 rear 32 input . twin stick . Rebuilt by me .modified by me . 500 foot pounds of torque on 35 inch tires ...NO PROBLEMS

[Cataldo]

Thanks for the heads info everyone. I went with option c an inexpensive good np208. The np241 was electronic and the 205 was rough.