Rear door time
Passenger side under the dash against kick panel
There is a set of 5 wires running from the firewall feed and disappearing under the carpet.
That is the feed that powers your rear door window and locks.
On mine, there are two 14 gauge wires (blue and brown) that power the door locks, and three 12 gauge wires (red, green, and white) that power the rear window control.
You need to cut the two coming from the driver's door master switch, but leave the main power feed intact.
In my case, green and white get cut.
Leave enough to work with on both sides. I allowed enough room to connect the part coming from under the carpet to the relay.
The side coming from the driver's door is now the master switch feed for the passenger rear window. Terminal 85/86 on relay pair.
Remember the new 14 gauge wires you ran to the rear door? Those also connect to terminal 85/86 of relay pair.
The side coming from under the carpet will be motor feed to relay. Terminal 30 on each relay of pair.
Now let's go to the driver's side of the dash near kick panel.
Same thing as above.
You have to cut the same wires.
There is a difference. The master switch feed is going to be way too short to reach the relays.
Remember the new motor and switch wires we ran across the firewall for this? Should be 2-14 gauge runs and 2-12 gauge runs.
The 12 gauge is your motor feed. Connect them to the part of the original wiring that goes under the carpet to the rear door.
The other side of the new 12 gauge sections will connect to terminal 30 on each of the paired relays for that window circuit.
Good so far?
Now, you have the switch feed you ran from the rear door up to the kick panel, just like the passenger side.
You also have the driver's door section 12 gauge feed you just cut. It will be switch feed from the master control.
You also have the 2-14 gauge wire firewall runs I just mentioned.
"Window Up" is one wire from rear door, one wire from front door, and one firewall wire.
"Window down" is the other three.
Got it?
Connect them in that manner.
One firewall wire, one front door connection, and one rear connection.
Repeat.
I didn't take any pics of these connections, but if you are confused and need them, I can snap some.
Now, connect the other end of the firewall run to terminals 85/86 of the relay pair.
Now, let's go into the rear doors.
Both doors are the same process, so I'm only covering it one time.
Find the wiring going to the rear door window switch
Look at it really good. On mine, you have 2 sets of wires running to switch.
Brown and yellow, and Lt Green, green, and brown.
The brown and yellow pair are switch to motor feed. Cut them low in the door with room to work with both sections after cutting.
The lt green is the 12v power for the rear control on mine. I will not cut it at all.
The dk green and brown alongside the light green are master switch feed from driver's door. They will now be used to power the motor.
Cut them lower in the door as well, leaving enough to work with both sections.
Tip!
On my switch harness, there was a section where the wires were not siamesed as shown in the picture.
I used that section to separate them a bit more. That is where I made all my cuts.
Now, connect the new wires you ran inside door to the wires from switch to motor you cut.
For me, I connect my new wires to the brown and yellow paired wires from switch.
Connect the wires from motor to the wires you cut away from switch.
Make sure to connect to the harness side exiting door.
In my case, the yellow and brown wires from motor connect to the green and brown wires that used to go to switch.
Tip!
Before crimping or soldering your connections here, I like to test the switch direction vs window direction., so I usually simply twist my switch connections together, make sure my relays are connected, turn the ignition switch on, and try out the rear switches to make sure the window goes in the same direction as switch.
Once I'm satisfied, I make my connection permanent.
Same thing goes for the Driver's door master switch connection.
Speaking of which, we need to mod it the same way as we did for the front windows.
Open it and take a picture of how it is connected:
Carefully wiggle those wires free, keeping track of which rear door feed goes where (green and white pairs, in my case) tape em together, etc.
You can discard the ground wires.
Now pop that plastic cover off.
Remove that brass/copper tab that connects to 4 pins.
If you want to remove the corroded paper stuff, feel free. Just leave the lower brass/copper connector alone.
Now is a good time to clean everything. Notice the other 4 pin connector you leave in place:
Now jump to the other rear door and repeat. Check the switch vs window direction. Make the connections permanent. Enjoy!
Again, If you need more explanation, pics, etc, let me know.