Serehill's Tailgate relay diagram

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will e
Posts: 5096
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:21 am

Re: Serehill's Tailgate relay diagram

Post by will e »

Okay. The picture of your multimeter has the dial pointing to ACV. That's Alternating Current volts. No use to you for the car.
You mention you figured out how to test for continuity and that it makes the Noise. I assume you had the meter pointing to the bottom right 'continuity' function for your test. This will test if there is an electrical path available between whatever you touch the tester leads to. I would expect the noise in a normal motor when you touched the two connectors.

Next step is to try touching each connector with one tester lead and the other to a metal part on the motor while the multi meter is in 'continuity' mode. Normal motors won't beep.

The position next to OFF labeled DCV can be used to measure voltage. Try it on the battery. Red on the positive side and black on the negative. The battery will read around 12 volts. You can swap the leads and put the black on positive and red on negative and it will read a negative volt value. (It's not really negative volts, it's just indicating that the flow goes the other way).

With that done you can then use the leads to DCV test voltages at the various parts of your window setup. Including the connector for the motor. With a lead on each connector you can expect it to show no volts when at rest and around 12 volts when the window switch is in one position and negative 12 volts when it is in the other. Confirm this operation.
81 Waggy 'WILL E' Retired
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1979bettywhite
Posts: 547
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2017 8:14 am

Serehill's Tailgate relay diagram

Post by 1979bettywhite »

Not to resurrect an old thread here, but I am sure people still frequent it for the info. Just wired up my own relay panel and got it all installed. Works like a charm and much more reliable, lol. I wound up modifying my original dash switch to work with the new relay system. It's a pretty simple process. You can see dodgerammit's description of it above. I just followed that. Worked just fine, but the old brittle plastic broke a little on one side as I drilled out the heads retaining the switch But the bolt I put back in seems to be holding everything just fine.

I actually had a 25% off coupon for Harbor Freight, so I picked up one of their wireless winch controllers for $30. Cut open the wire loom, patched it into the system (although it does require it's own ground) and now I have a remote to use as well! Although it is somewhat large, won't be putting it on the key ring. Finally I also wired in a hidden switch underneath the jeep. Just in case I get locked out somewhere along the way. I think it's hidden enough that you really have to look for it to find it, and really have to reach to get to it. I can always remove it if I am not comfortable with it being there.

I could not get 3 of the 6 screws loose for the window mechanism, so I did not bother modifying the key switch. I can always get back in there later and wire one up. But judging by how good those screws were seized in there, it won't be anytime soon. Plus, I have a remote!

The major difference in the way I set things up versus what others have done is that I actually did not want to drill holes to mount the panel. So I thought, why not use magnets and attach it to the outer skin of the tailgate. If the magnets are strong enough, it should not move, and it is good and out of the way of the window now. I used a total of six magnets and just epoxied them to the back of the panel. Only downside I could see is if I hit a bunch of large bumps. But I have slammed the tailgate enough times testing it to think that it's really not going anywhere. Maybe slide down some, but that's not the end of the world. I tucked the wireless winch controller back in the corner of the tailgate out of the way. They are designed to be mounted in the elements, so really not worried about it either.

Let me know if you have any questions. Really content with the setup so far. Oh, and I just bypassed the safety switch, pulled all the wiring, and plugged the hole where it was.ImageImageImageImageImage
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dodgerammit
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Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:20 pm
Location: Middle TN

Re: Serehill's Tailgate relay diagram

Post by dodgerammit »

:-bd
84 Grand Waggy-Radio Flyer (Garnet Red/3M Ebony Metallic woodgrain, with honey interior) AMC 360 :cry: 2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses :fsj: Ongoing thread-viewtopic.php?t=11897

92 Wrangler Islander 4.0/32RH/231 D30/D35 RHD

Spirit_of_61
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2017 9:41 am

Re: Serehill's Tailgate relay diagram

Post by Spirit_of_61 »

Could someone repost the tailgate relay wiring diagram? It is illegible.

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1979bettywhite
Posts: 547
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2017 8:14 am

Re: Serehill's Tailgate relay diagram

Post by 1979bettywhite »

Here you go:

Image


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