Power Windows and Locks

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Topic author
Thomas792
Posts: 54
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 6:02 am

Power Windows and Locks

Post by Thomas792 »

I've been thinking this one on and off for 10 years. My 88 GW has a problem with the right rear window. The signal is weak. I've cleaned the switches but that was a marginal improvement. I could replace just the wires but that may not do it since the electricity path has issues.

I'd like to swap in a pair of relays. I think it would be really simple to add them in to each of the doors. It would require 2 relays per window motor per door.

I also want to fix the power locks. Connect a battery directly to them and they work fine. Through the switch, not so well. Again the most logical solution is the relay. Again this would take 2 relays per door.

Lastly would be the tailgate which would require 2 relays. I'd wire them all the same and according to my diagram below. The battery to actually run the motor would come from the battery over a 10 ga wire with a 20A fuse.

I made my own headlight harness based off of a diagram I got from another website (Camaro?). Anyway, am I wrong? Am I right?
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Last edited by Thomas792 on Thu Sep 21, 2017 2:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
1974 J10 - 401, TH400, QT, D44, 28" tires - Sold under duress
1988 GW - "Mrs Tickety" - 360, 727, NP228, D44, 32" tires
Retired Marine

SJTD
Posts: 1930
Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 12:02 pm
Location: Lompoc, Sunland or somewhere between

Re: Power Windows and Locks

Post by SJTD »

I don't think it'll work. It would help if you could post a schematic of the relay.

When I did this I determined that I had to mod the front switch or the both the relays would pick up when the key switch was used but I can't visualize it based on your picher of the relay.

Post #46 here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... 564&page=5

I think my subscription with PB is still good.
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Topic author
Thomas792
Posts: 54
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 6:02 am

Re: Power Windows and Locks

Post by Thomas792 »

Updated diagram with more things labeled. The relay is the standard Bosch type relay with a normally closed and normally open connection. Looking at the wiring diagram I cannot fully understand how the modification to the front switch affects things.

If the front switch is used, one of the wires become (+) and one stays ground. If the rear key switch is used, one of the wires becomes (+) and one stays ground. With my thoughts and diagram, the relay on the (+) side switches to the normally open circuit and power can flow through the relay to the motor, just the same as if the switch itself were acting directly upon it. I think this will work with all the door windows and power locks as well.

Do you have anything more than post #46 that shows what you did? Really interested in doing this.
1974 J10 - 401, TH400, QT, D44, 28" tires - Sold under duress
1988 GW - "Mrs Tickety" - 360, 727, NP228, D44, 32" tires
Retired Marine

SJTD
Posts: 1930
Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 12:02 pm
Location: Lompoc, Sunland or somewhere between

Re: Power Windows and Locks

Post by SJTD »

Sorry about the false alarm. Your set up works fine. Had to draw it out.

The difference with what I did is that I don't run the power from the front switch through the rear switch. I've got them in parallel. I'll have to find the diagram of what I did. Maybe the mod I made to the front switch wasn't required.

Made sense to me at the time.
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Topic author
Thomas792
Posts: 54
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 6:02 am

Re: Power Windows and Locks

Post by Thomas792 »

Thanks. I figure that if I keep everything stock and just run additional (+) wires to provide (+) to the motors I'll be able to maintain sanity. Eventually I'll replace the factory wiring but not up to that task while trying to figure out how to improve it. BTW, I found a diagram on Ford Muscle Forums that basically showed the same thing.
1974 J10 - 401, TH400, QT, D44, 28" tires - Sold under duress
1988 GW - "Mrs Tickety" - 360, 727, NP228, D44, 32" tires
Retired Marine
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