D'oh!!!REDONE wrote:I think the Edelbrock has three keyways on the crank sprocket for hotrodders to degree their cams. When they do this, the match-marks don't mean anything and they use a degree wheel instead. If you used the wrong keyway and the match-marks, you'll be 120° out on your valve timing. Would build pressure, but not a whole lot.
It'll rub out...ColoWagon wrote:Truth!
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Cool, I can't remember for 100% sure, but I'm 90% sure the correct 0° is the keyway at ~2 o'clock with match marks aligned. Can't see it in your pic due to the balancer washer in place.ColoWagon wrote:Yep...it did/does. I went for the zero degree, versus the other two.
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You can't tell from your picture if it was installed correctly. If the crank key is in the 'O' slock of the crank timing gear you are good. If the crank key is in the A or R slock it is way off.ColoWagon wrote:Found a pic of the timing chain I had sent for second eyes awhile back. I was making a key at the time so it is not in for the pic (yes it is installed in the engine).
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Minutes difference! I can check the air still and valve cover is off (Got angry and worked through it)!will e wrote:You don't have to pull the front cover off to determine if you used the wrong crank key.
Easy test is pull #1 plug. Place the engine at just a few degrees before TDC. We want to see if the valves are closed by using compressed air. Best method is to use a spark plug fitting and gauge. A compresson tester with a pop off guage works great for the hose. If the cly holds air you are good. Don't worry about a slow leak. If you are 120 degrees off you will hear the air come through the intake or out the exhaust. if it doesn't hold air, you might be at the top of the exhaust stroke, try again after rotating the crank 180 degrees.
Another options is to remove the valve cover for the #1 piston. Move the crank to TDC. Is either valve opened, if so, rotate 180 degrees. Is either valve opened? When you are on the compression stroke both valves will be closed.
Key is on the "O" and lined up with "O" pointing at the dot on the cam gear.will e wrote:You can't tell from your picture if it was installed correctly. If the crank key is in the 'O' slock of the crank timing gear you are good. If the crank key is in the A or R slock it is way off.ColoWagon wrote:Found a pic of the timing chain I had sent for second eyes awhile back. I was making a key at the time so it is not in for the pic (yes it is installed in the engine).
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In the picture you can see that the O is aligned with the mark on the cam shaft sproket AND you can just see the top of the O between 1 and 2 oclock and the bottom of the 'A' at 10 o'clock. If you put the crank shaft into the 'O' slot and used the O to align the timing it is good.
You someone wants to advance or retard they don't need a degree wheel, they just need to make sure they use matching letters. For examle, to advance the crank key goes into the 'A' slot and then timing alignment is done with the A marking , not the O.
If you look closely at the following picture you can see the top of the A marking where the chain meet the sprocket.
http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edel ... 0-401.html
Here you can see the bottom of the 'R':
http://www.edelbrockproducts.eu/en/edel ... 0-401.html
To be clear. If the pin is in slot 'A' then the 'A' timing mark is used. If the pin is in slot 'R' the 'R' timing mark is used and if it is is 'O' the 'O' timing mark is used.
Do the push rods have slots in the head or big round holes? If you have big round holes you need guide plates on the pushrods for those rockers. That would definitely explain the bent rod!ColoWagon wrote:Question...are lifter bridges needed for stud rollers?
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