The crossed fingers 360

[tedlovesjeeps71]

I have a question about the oil fill tube in the old intake. I'm guessing that has to be removed somehow to be installed into the edelbrock performer, right? How does it come out??

As has been said, it's just pressed in. I whacked mine with a rubber mallet on the side back and forth a couple of times to break it free a little and then was able to just muscle it out. Then just use the rubber mallet to pound it into the new manifold.

If you're still interested in the aluminum valve covers, they're still taking up space in the garage.

Since the manifold is off, could I not just drive it out from the underside? Also, does anyone know why it's so tall? Seems like an awfully long tube for something used to pour oil in. Has anyone ever shortened it or made a cap that screws on instead of push in?

And yes sir, I do still want them. Sorry it's taking me so long. Trying to scrape up funds. I need to win the lottery because this Jeep sickness is draining me!!


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[derf]

Since the manifold is off, could I not just drive it out from the underside? Also, does anyone know why it's so tall? Seems like an awfully long tube for something used to pour oil in. Has anyone ever shortened it or made a cap that screws on instead of push in?

And yes sir, I do still want them. Sorry it's taking me so long. Trying to scrape up funds. I need to win the lottery because this Jeep sickness is draining me!!


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No easy way to get anything on it from underneath. It sits in a "cup" with a small hole at the base. It's not hard to get out. Just whack it a couple of times side to side and then pull. If I can muscle it out, almost anyone else can.

No idea why it's so tall. There's no real reason it needs to be.

[tedlovesjeeps71]

Since the manifold is off, could I not just drive it out from the underside? Also, does anyone know why it's so tall? Seems like an awfully long tube for something used to pour oil in. Has anyone ever shortened it or made a cap that screws on instead of push in?

And yes sir, I do still want them. Sorry it's taking me so long. Trying to scrape up funds. I need to win the lottery because this Jeep sickness is draining me!!


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No easy way to get anything on it from underneath. It sits in a "cup" with a small hole at the base. It's not hard to get out. Just whack it a couple of times side to side and then pull. If I can muscle it out, almost anyone else can.

No idea why it's so tall. There's no real reason it needs to be.

Ok, I'll see if I can work it free tonight.
I tried to reply to your PM, did it go through? Tapatalk is acting whacky today for me.


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[Tatsadasayago]

If you can't whack the tube loose you can always use an oil filter strap wrench to twist it. The last resort being a pipe wrench...but it will leave marks.
I believe AMC took the early chevy V-8 filler tube design and used it on theirs. Supposedly the length is to prevent oil splash and vapors from being blown out of the cap. When proper PCV systems were introduced this wasn't much of an issue any more but AMC apparently felt no need to change the design.

[rocklaurence]

Oil tube removal--find a deep socket that just fits inside. Then grab it with a pipe wrench and wrestle it out. The socket will prevent the wrench from callapsing the tube.

[Nikkormat]

Ted, if you want a screw in filler cap find a filler neck an Oldsmobile V8 and cut the narrowed end off to fit the AMC manifold hole.

[tedlovesjeeps71]

Thanks for the info guys!


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[tedlovesjeeps71]

Happiness is new cam bearings installed..

[Tatsadasayago]

The block cleaned up nicely in the washer.
Good job on the bearings!
Keep us posted.

[tedlovesjeeps71]

The block cleaned up nicely in the washer.
Good job on the bearings!
Keep us posted.

Yup... The block is cleaning up nicely. Tonight's fun was pulling freeze plugs and scraping at casting flash and corrosion in the coolant passages. Also got the last of the head gasket material scraped and all the mating surfaces cleaned. Then spent a while blasting all the passages with air to drive a small pile of crud, corrosion, and casting sand out. Probably had a water glass full when it was all said and done.
Had another student on my "team" carefully removing rings from pistons.
Tomorrow should be interesting and exciting (to me anyways). The performance class instructor is going to help me with honing the cylinders. After that I can check the rings and see how worn they are. When that's done the engine will go into the washer for one final cleaning.
The other thing on the agenda will be taking the heads apart. Those too will need more cleaning etc and valves checked. I did get the rockers/push rods/ etc cleaned pretty well.
Plan is to reassemble with new seals, guides if needed.

As far as the cam bearings, I can't take credit for that. The performance instructor was working on his Corvette over the weekend and offered to do them for me. I came in to freshly installed bearings. I owe him a 6pack.



One of the heads coolant passages before I give them any attention:



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[Tatsadasayago]

Nice going.
Are you going with a new cam?

[az chip]

Nice progress! For your next class I will send you my 401! What a deal!

[tedlovesjeeps71]

Nice going.
Are you going with a new cam?

That's the idea. Have this brand new summit cam and lifters waiting for reassembly.




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[tedlovesjeeps71]

Nice progress! For your next class I will send you my 401! What a deal!

It's kinda a bitter sweet deal. It's cool to be able to take it apart and measure everything and getting it all clean is awesome. We are in week 4 now so I have about 2 weeks to get it done. Next week is summer break so no progress. School closed on the 4th and the last day is finals so no shop time.
My next semester is brakes and suspension stuff so it will be a while before I revisit the engine stuff. What I foresee happening is I'll get the motor all cleaned up, probably reassemble the heads and some of the block, then I'll have to take it back out to storage. Best I can hope for is the rings are good so I can assemble the bottom end. That leaves me with time to save money for other needed parts like timing set, gaskets, freeze plugs, etc. I wish they did full machining at the school but they don't. Guess that's a bit too involved? But at least I'm learning stuff I didn't know.

[tgreese]

Oh, I would not reuse the rings, regardless. What makes you think you could reuse the rings? Keep the pistons, replace the rings.

A full set of new cast iron rings is less than $30 at RockAuto.

[tedlovesjeeps71]

Oh, I would not reuse the rings, regardless. Why do you think you can reuse the rings? Keep the pistons, replace the rings.

I wish I could do a full rebuild, bore it out and use all new everything. Just done have the money. It's surprising how expensive the ring sets are.

Uh... Just looked on RockAuto and I must have looked at something wrong. When I looked previously I swear it said almost $200 for rings?
Looked now and it's in the 60$ range...



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[Tatsadasayago]

File this for future reference:
When you install the camshaft and lifters be sure to keep the break-in lube off the bearing journals. You would be surprised how many people make this mistake.

You should never re-use rings unless you are living in a post-apocalyptic world...

[tedlovesjeeps71]

File this for future reference:
When you install the camshaft and lifters be sure to keep the break-in lube off the bearing journals. You would be surprised how many people make this mistake.

Do you mean off the cam bearing journals? I thought the ass-lube (THAT didn't sound right ) was supposed to be slathered all over everything thickly??

You should never re-use rings unless you are living in a post-apocalyptic world...

Somedays I feel like thats exactly what I'm living in!


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[Tatsadasayago]

The cam bearing journals should be coated with assembly lube yes, but the black Moly break-in lube that comes with the cam should only be used on the lifter faces and cam lobes. The break-in lube is abrasive by design and it's purpose is to get the lobe and lifter surfaces to mate as quickly as possible.

[derf]

So I have a favor to ask when you're putting the engine back together. It's related to the flex plate issue I had with Novak and my 401 and I want a comparison measurement.

Once the crank is in, can you measure how far the flywheel/flex plate mounting surface on the back of the crank sticks out past the bellhousing mounting surface?