The ring and pinion are precise to an extent. The end of the pinion should have a number stamped in it. A +4, or -2 or something. This tells you how much off zero it is for depth.rocklaurence wrote:Most of the set-up variations are in the housing. The gears and carrier are machined to Exact dimensions. So, in most cases the original shims on the pinion and carrier will get you there-or real close on the new gears [the shims are needed to correct Casting vairiations in the housing]. You'll want to invest in a good bearing puller/tool [$400] to remove bearings without damaging them. Also, your mesh pattern wont look like the Perfect example they show you in the book. A good pattern is when the gear contact isn't touching any of the 4 edges. Set the Backlash and preload as discribed and you'll be fine.
Those numbers will get you very close. So typically a good starting point.SJTD wrote:It was Jegs that has the pinion setup tool.
If the gears you take out have the markings can you use those and the numbers on the new set to compute the shimming required on the new set?
Or are those numbers to be used with the pinion depth tooling.
Never done it. Read up on it a few years ago but I don't remember the details. Going to do it if I ever get mine on the road.
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy new bearings? I have seen the master install kits for around $110rocklaurence wrote:Most of the set-up variations are in the housing. The gears and carrier are machined to Exact dimensions. So, in most cases the original shims on the pinion and carrier will get you there-or real close on the new gears [the shims are needed to correct Casting vairiations in the housing]. You'll want to invest in a good bearing puller/tool [$400] to remove bearings without damaging them. Also, your mesh pattern wont look like the Perfect example they show you in the book. A good pattern is when the gear contact isn't touching any of the 4 edges. Set the Backlash and preload as discribed and you'll be fine.
They also limited the range of gears available in the axles. The JK D44 only goes from 3.21 to 5.38. The earlier generation went from 2.72 to 5.89.rocklaurence wrote:Check to see if you can purchase a Thick/Fat ring gear instead of a carrier--it'll save you some money. Dana stopped the "2 carrier-break" system on the D44s a while back. They now use a thicker gear instead of a separate carrier as used on the Redeo and JK axle and I suppose all the others.
It's also an opportunity to upgrade. When I did the axle swap in my XJ I went to limited slips in both axles as long as I was crossing the carrier break.Stuka wrote:He needs a carrier for the rear regardless. The AMC20 range goes from 3.07 to 4.56. The 2.73 carrier won't work, and there are not thick gears for AMC20s.
But for the front, thick gears are definitely an option. But if the spider and side gears are badly worn, may be worth replacing it anyway.