NP208 swap - Rebuild First??

[PUDS]

My project has a rebuilt 360/727 and supposedly rebuilt NP229 with all of the vacuum junk which I want to replace with an NP208. I bought a parts truck that came with an NP208 that wasn't in the truck but the original owner had purchased it to swap to it came with. When I got it, it was covered in years of grime, etc, and the case had been sitting inside the cherokee parts truck which spent the last 10-15 years rotting away in a farmer's field. Needless to say, I am skeptical about just throwing it into my truck and hoping for the best. However, I went out tonight and degreased the outside and hit it with a wire brush and wire wheel to clean it up and when I put it upside down to get to the other side, it leaked a bit from the vent line which is fine, but to my surprise it looked like brand new fluid (nice red). The cases look like they have been split at some point because there's excess sealant at the seams which I took off when cleaning it up. The case shifts from neutral to both 4 HI and 4 LO and spins freely in all positions when I do it all by hand. There doesn't seem to be any binding, grinding or anything noticeably bad about the case at this point. Since my truck is a project and won't be on the road for another year, I had planned on buying a complete rebuild kit with seals, bearings, chain, but am starting to reconsider. Should I just change the fluid and put it in? What could be the worst case scenario without rebuilding it? This is all new to me, so I don't want to screw myself but I'd rather spend the money elsewhere if I can. The rebuild kit and chain is close to $300 online USD, which for me in Canada is like $600 CDN by the time I pay shipping, duty and exchange. I can buy all of material for my bumpers/rock guards for that and then some. Please let me know if you have any advice.

[BCRAWLER]

My first piece of advice is to go to Rock Auto and check out their prices as they come in Canadian dollars. As long as you're not having to cut your drive shafts I would put the 208 in and see how it goes.Swapping transfer case should be a long afternoon job if it turns out that it is not good. Truly a roll of the dice, when my transmission went , I replaced it with spare Unit that I was given when I bought the Jeep and it only lasted 3 weeks but at least I know that it had an issue. Now about to rebuild the first unit.

[BCRAWLER]

Forgot to ask whereabouts in Canada are you?

[PUDS]

Belleville, Ontario. It's got the front drive shaft attached still, but either way the front is the same front from regardless of the NP229 or 208. I also have a few rear shafts that came with the parts truck, one looking to be the 4" longer version I think I need, so no cutting, just bolt in.

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI (in the works)
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

[fulsizjeep]

If you have access to a rear drive shaft for a 74-79 Wag/Cherk with V8/QT, they are direct fit for a V8/NP229 to 208 conversion.

[PUDS]

If you have access to a rear drive shaft for a 74-79 Wag/Cherk with V8/QT, they are direct fit for a V8/NP229 to 208 conversion.

I've got 2 or 3 extra rear driveshafts that came with the parts Cherokee which is an 83. However, the NP208 also came with it but obviously wasn't from it, along with a driveshaft that is approximately 4" longer than my current driveshaft for my 229. I assumed this was the correct one, does anyone have an overall measurement for the direct replacement driveshaft I need?

[derf]

The worst case scenario of bolting it up as-is is that it will not work right. There is an off chance that something inside lets go and whatever part will try to make its way through the wall of the case with varying success.

Every time I get a part with an unknown history, I rebuild it. It may not be needed but I'm in the "better safe than sorry" camp.

Rebuilding a 208 is really not difficult at all. I don't remember having to use any special tools on anything when I did mine. Assuming my memory is holding up, bearings can be driven out and the replacement driven back in with just a hammer and the right size socket/driver. The only one part that gave me any fits is the bearing that holds the front nose of the rear output shaft. It's pressed into the front half of the case and there's no good way to pull it. But a Dremel tool and some fidgeting with it will get it out so you can put another one in. And while you don't want to get into the metal in the case, it's not really critical if you scratch it a little. All it needs to do is hold the bearing in place. Some scratches won't keep it from doing that.

Of course, replacing the chain (optional in the rebuild kit) is up to you. It is a good idea to check the chain as you're disassembling the case. They do stretch and you don't want to have too much slack.

edit: Forgot to mention that you do want some petroleum jelly. Getting all of the needle bearings in place is somewhat of an annoyance but not all that technically difficult. The jelly holds them in place. But if you don't catch all of the old ones when you pull things apart, you'll be finding them for months or years as they have a tendency to go everywhere.

[fulsizjeep]

I guess I need to get off my butt and measure my spare drive shaft. It came from a QT rig. I am glad Roy mentioned the petroleum jelly. I have also used wheel bearing grease to hold the needles in place. I agree with rebuilding or at least inspecting unknown components. I would not put an unknown QT in one of my Jeeps before splitting the case. Not saying I haven't done that. I have and regretted it.

[Gumby]

Do not lose that bearing (it's a single ball), I would rebuild it if I was in your position. I found one in a junk yard and just installed it. It lasted a while but leaked like he'll and the chain was more like a rubber band. It is now rebuilt, it's doable with a little patience.

[PUDS]

Thanks guys, my original thoughts were to rebuild it, so I may as well spend the time to make sure it's right since it's the case I want in the long run. Do I need to buy a "kit" for rebuild or is it easy enough to source the bearings and seals from a local bearing shop?

1978 Cherokee/Wagoneer 360/727/NP229 (soon NP208)
4" BJ'S Lift
Thorley Headers/Magnaflow Exh
Edelbrock Intake
Fitech TBI
32" BFG KM2'S
Razor Grill
///This is a project vehicle///

[REDONE]

The nice thing about rebuild kits is that they come with 90-100% of the parts you need and instructions in the case you get lost on reassembly. The downside is they are usually cheap no-name bearings and seals that could be worse than the good old one's still in the case.

If you have the time and space to leave it disassembled for a couple days, I'd recommend taking it apart and inspecting it first. If it's just a mess then a kit is the way to go, but if all it needs is a new input/output seals and a chain, then onesy-twosy is the way to go. The seals and chain are the only thing I've ever needed to replace in a 208, both in Chevies (with slip yokes, Jeeps are fixed yoke) that weren't heavily beat on though.

[PUDS]

Good to know, thanks. Hopefully get some time in the next couple of weeks to get into it. Are there any "how to" links for the 208 rebuild? I have 2 manuals, a Chilton and a Hayes, haven't really looked to see how much info they have.

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[REDONE]

The Chilton's and Hayne's manuals for our trucks are seriously under rated around here, I prefer them to the FSM/TSM 90% of the time. Unfortunately, they don't say anything about the t-cases, transmissions, or setting up gears. On the plus side, there is no shortage of Youtube videos, other websites, and forums like this one to get it done.

[derf]

One thing to keep in mind is that most rebuild kits do not include a replacement chain. Just seals, gaskets, and bearings. You have to buy the chain separately. That's usually not a big deal, just something to pay attention to.

[Gumby]

You can get the repair manual from New process gears website. Not the best quality buy it should be all you need.

[tgreese]

You also have the '82 Jeep TSM online at http://www.oljeep.com - it covers the NP208 in 16 pages. That's where I would start.

I would also comment that the chain in a New Process case only drives the front wheels, and in a NP208 that's only running in 4WD. So I kinda think it's unlikely you'll need to replace the chain. When I fixed my T-18, I had the NP208 on the floor and I could have opened it, but in my case it was not leaking and did not make bad noises so I left it alone - cleaned the outside and put it back with the transmission.

If you open the case, you should reseal it - there is an input seal, a front and rear output seal, an oil pump seal, and a shifter shaft seal. There is no seal between the case halves, instead using sealant (Loctite 515 or equivalent). I replaced the shifter shaft seal (the shifter shaft was leaking a little), which IIRC is just an o-ring. The TSM is very specific about assembly and disassemble - take a look. Online sites like this one http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog ... np208.html show part numbers which you can cross on the RockAuto site, or you can look up the numbers in the parts catalog on the Tom Collins site.

[fulsizjeep]

http://frontier.net/~mystkblu/NP208_D30 ... rCases.pdf

AMC Jeep TSM

[PUDS]

Thanks that's perfect!

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[Cheapthrills]

Is the 208 stronger than a 229?

87 grand Wagoneer mostly stock
90 grand Wagoneer (stalled 5.3 project)

[Cheapthrills]

Is the 208 stronger than a 229?

87 grand Wagoneer mostly stock
90 grand Wagoneer (stalled 5.3 project)