Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
I'm also considering this swap, already have the whole truck, '95 short box regular cab, I even wheeled the crap out of it this weekend, and now I've been kind of wondering about putting my Jeep body onto the ram frame, shortening the box and putting the J20 axles underneath with the coil springs and all... I'm not sure which way would be easier, but a short box J20 would be pretty BA!
Dave Glaspie
'88 J20, under the knife installing a '95 5.9 Magnum/Tranny/and T-case, and a 6" lift
'79 CJ7, 360 AMC with Edelbrock, Holley 470 T/A, HEI, TH400, Quadratrac, w/4" lift, 35" tires
'76 CJ5, 232 AMC, T-14, D20, Corp 20 rear w/full float axle conversion, lockouts and a Detroit locker, front D30 w/lunchbox and 4:56 gears, 4" lift and 35" tires
'78 CJ5, 304, T150, D20
Manly men drive CJs and FSJs, they weld and drink beer... They do not drive Hummers, they receive them...
I initially planned on swapping in a 97 ZJ tank and pump but want to keep the stock fuel gauge. I couldn't find a sender that would work and didn't want to try and mount the Waggy level sender inside the ZJ tank. Plus the ZJ tank goes in place of the spare tire.
My plan now is to install an in-tank fuel pump mated to the Wagoneer pickup and running high pressure lines. The 97 is a returnless fuel system with the regulator on the pump. I was going to get around this by running an OBD1 fuel rail that has a regulator and return system. I already have an in tank pump from a 90s Mustang.
Problem I have now is the ODB1 runs at 39 +- 5 psi and the OBD2 runs at 49 +-5 psi. 10 psi too little. I'm thinking my fuel injectors won't like the lower pressure. Thoughts on this?
So now I'm thinking of adding an inline fuel pressure regulator near the tank. It'll be easy to run a return that way and I don't have to source a fuel rail. Can anyone recommend a FPR? No need for vacuum control, it can be rock solid at 49 psi or so.
85 Grand Wagoneer 5.2/44RE/NP229
98 TJ 5.9/46RE/D300
97 F250 Powerstroke
Anyone pull the front clip as a whole? How much does it weigh? I'm off work with a disc issue in my back and doubt I can lift it. Having one friend come over today to help but I doubt he can get it alone..
85 Grand Wagoneer 5.2/44RE/NP229
98 TJ 5.9/46RE/D300
97 F250 Powerstroke
The stock shift linkage on the trans line will work, however I needed to drill out a second hole on the bellhousing and tap the other. I'll also have to trim the bell housing mount.
Installed a TFOD-JR shift kit in the 44re.
85 Grand Wagoneer 5.2/44RE/NP229
98 TJ 5.9/46RE/D300
97 F250 Powerstroke
Let me know if you are getting rid of the stock springs, I want to drop my 84 back down to stock height. Did you ever find the heater switch you were looking for? I might have one if you still need it.
91 Grand Wagoneer
89 Grand Wagoneer
80 Golden Hawk
81 Cherokee
Looking good so far. So what was the outcome of the speedometer and issue?
Also that grafted Dakota cluster looks smexy in there. I may do this myself. I was originally considering the Mopar gauges that CU4wheelin used on the Hemi Chero, or even a set of Dakota digital gauges since I'm a dealer. But I think on these trucks, digitals look out of place.
I like the stock round gauges myself, and I think the digital gauges create a lot more work personally.
I'm using a speed sensor from a 92 Dakota, it's electronic and has a passthrough for the cable. I just need a 5/8 to 3/4 adapter from the speedomter shop. I'm also having my speedometer recalibrated since the magnetism is off above 40mph. I'l have him tune it to my 31 inch tires.
I don't have to change anything in the cluster, although I did do the voltage gauge in it. I'm able to tee the stock oil sender into the Magnum to keep that gauge working, and I'm using an external fuel pump for now so the fuel gauge works as it should.
I was going to tap into the speed sensor for the cruise, nut the wiring is already at the t-case in my Magnum harness.
85 Grand Wagoneer 5.2/44RE/NP229
98 TJ 5.9/46RE/D300
97 F250 Powerstroke
I decided to modify the factory 360 block mounts and use some new AMC mounts. However, they seem to be a different style. THere's enough room to accomodate the extra material, but why the different design?
85 Grand Wagoneer 5.2/44RE/NP229
98 TJ 5.9/46RE/D300
97 F250 Powerstroke
Hopefully to help solve the problem of the original mounts tearing in half. The factory motor mounts in these guys are extremely crappy. Lots of people ripping them apart, even with stock rigs. They don't take much abuse at all. Lot of people have actually put bolts through them to keep them from completely separating in the event of a failure.
aa
1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank