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So I started the Wagoneer yesterday and it started making a loud ticking noise. I felt around under the hood and it seems like it's coming from an assembly related to emissions(?) located directly behind the power steering res. Long story short, when the rig warmed up, the noise went away.
Here's a video. Do any of you have any ideas what this it?
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
I can't get the ticking to come back like you hear in the video BUT:
I think you're right. I don't have a stethoscope but I can feel the pump "pulsing" quite a bit. Are these things known to make a tapping/ticking noise when the go bad? (it looks like a rotary/vane pump not a piston style pump... why would a vane pump tick?)
Thanks for the help,
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
They start making noise because there is no lube. It is a straight wear system they will seize when they feel like it.even when you are at speed. They run hot when new and get worse with age. We replace new ones under warranty and others that where 15 years old I had 1 on a 69 rambler and put on an 80 wagoner and it ran till the 80 was junked for body rot. They have a life and mind of their own.
79 Cherokee WT QT Golden Eagle white with gold windows "Pigger" only blows hubs the night before a road trip or the clodest night of year. Has only been towed cause of stupid.
If the AIR pump is really the culprit, IIRC, you can still get replacement pumps, but you will have to reuse your existing pulley. There are 3 and 4 bolt versions.
You can also by pass the diverted valve And see if that stops the noise. The valves not working will cause heat build up and kill the pump lucky split as well
79 Cherokee WT QT Golden Eagle white with gold windows "Pigger" only blows hubs the night before a road trip or the clodest night of year. Has only been towed cause of stupid.
Thanks for the info, you guys. I still can't get it to make any noise. It made a racket that day and has been quiet ever since. From the look of it, I can get a replacement pump from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts, or from TeamGrandWagoneer as well. Is the diverter valve the assembly that sits behind the pump on the drivers side? (the thing you see about 5 seconds in to my video above)
Also, is there any lubrication or maintenance I can do on my current pump, or do I need to just buy a new one when the old one starts making noise?
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
the short version
somebody checked Rock Auto and searched for diverter valve, and looked at all the pictures until I saw one that looked the same as I saw in pictures of Grand Wagoneers. It's part number DV54, $109.
A little more searching and this seems to be a Ford part: Motorcraft CX-921
used on Fords from about '83-96, Rock Auto has a list of the applications if you click on the part number when viewing it.
It is lubricated for life... whatever the duration is...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Thanks for the link and information, Letank. I touched the diverter valve back when it was making noise. It seemed to be "pulsing" the worst of everything... maybe it had a temporary clog? Still waiting for the noise to come back....
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
If the smog pump is dying, would that lead to warm idle problems? The waggy died at a stop light today...
What is your idle speed? at some point the pump may drag a bit , hence putting a brake on the rotating crankshaft... cut the belt is the quick solution if it starts to smoke.... pruners are handy....
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Idle speed seems a little low. I drove home (almost 100 miles) filled up the tank and haven't had it die again. But the idle still seems a little low. Just in case, I picked up a smog pump from O'Reilly. I think I'll just swap it out since it's been noisy on and off.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
I just wanted to update this thread with a resolution and to thank you guys. I replaced the smog pump today and the engine sounds good and the idle seems to be back to normal.
Thanks again for the troubleshooting help.
1989 Grand Wagoneer - Rebuilt 360, 2" Alcans, 10" travel Gabriel Guadian shocks.
1996 Land Cruiser - 1HD-T Diesel, Gturbo (23psi), Wholesale Automatics 442f, F/R ARBs, 35" Duratracs, ARB Rear Bumper, OME 2" lift, home built sliders and aluminum belly skid
2000 Honda Civic - Integra GSR engine, transmission, shift linkage and axles, 200hp, 33 combined mpg
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 9 - 437hp/447ft-lb
Funny, my turn, same thing happened yesterday, started the 74, and what a raucous ratcheting sound... Seemed like the PS pump... removing the AIR pump solved the problem... The engine is so quiet, if it was not for the cooling fan, I'd swear this is the electrical powered FSJ.
Doing a giggle search, it seems that some brands such as Bimmer and Toy are using electrical AIR pump
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)