401 vs 360

[MReese Wagoneer]

So as I wait on the machine shop , and 401 short block pieces come available
#1 should I
#2 what are the advantages other that 40 cubes
#3 will heads , oil pan , intake , front cover
Mostly bell housing all interchange
#4 why !!
Lol
I thinking I need block crank rods pistons
Was already needing cam
Have Eldelbrock intake and carb


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[tgreese]

This is a topic that would be straightforward to research online if you put in the effort.

[Stuka]

Just as an FYI, 401's are getting hard to come buy that have not already been bored over. Once they get bored more than .030, keeping them cool becomes very difficult. If you can find one that has never been bored over, great. Otherwise just stick with the 360.

[tgreese]

IIRC a 401 crank in a 360 block is another option for a boost in displacement. Steel crank vs. iron resp. IIRC there are a couple of threads about these engines on the mothership (ifsja.org). My BOTEC says that a 60 over 360 block with a 401 crank is a 396. ((4.08 + 0.06) / 2)^2 * 3.14159 * 3.68 * 8 = 396.3

You can also sleeve a 401 block to save it, but that's something like $100 per hole last I checked.

Maybe this will help you get started - https://www.bing.com/search?q=site%3Aif ... +360+block

[fulsizjeep]

I have a 401 that has been .030 over since 1996. Once the sick 360 with 226k miles was gone, I never looked back. I have been driving it since 2001. It has had cooling issues off and on over the years but they are always repairable like bad fan clutch, thermostat or radiator and not some characteristic of the engine itself.

[rocklaurence]

IMO, the cost and effort for 10% displacement isnt worth it. For the cost of Stroking the block you can easily add a cam and aluminum heads. Sure, you can add the heads and cam to the Stoker but double your expense in the motor.

[fulsizjeep]

IMO, the cost and effort for 10% displacement isnt worth it.

Based on what? In my case, I bought a rusted out 76 Cherk for $600 that had 60K on the rebuilt 401. I put new cam, lifters, timing chain set, SP2P intake and a used AFB in it. Also had to get a 401/727 flex plate and switch over to Autolite starter and solenoid as 88 has the Mitsubishi starter. The total cost was just shy of $1300. The effort was not so much since the engine needed to come out anyway.

[Cecil14]

IMO, the cost and effort for 10% displacement isnt worth it.

Based on what? In my case, I bought a rusted out 76 Cherk for $600 that had 60K on the rebuilt 401. I put new cam, lifters, timing chain set, SP2P intake and a used AFB in it. Also had to get a 401/727 flex plate and switch over to Autolite starter and solenoid as 88 has the Mitsubishi starter. The total cost was just shy of $1300. The effort was not so much since the engine needed to come out anyway.

You got pretty lucky, though, Flint. Very few people are fortunate enough to find running/runnable 401s anymore, much less for $600 including the vehicle. From prices I've seen over the years, it's usually a much more expensive affair.

I love the old AMC engines, but at this point I would typically point someone to a more modern alternative if they're looking for more power or efficiency. If you want to keep things inexpensive, stick with the original 360 (or 401, if applicable), but if you want more look at something like a modern Hemi or LS swap. They're not horrible expensive anymore.

[fulsizjeep]

That may be true... We have been fairly lucky. The next 401 was in a rusted out 75 Wag in 2005. Drove it home for $500. The bonus was a very nice QuadraTrac. In 2007 we bought a good running 77 401 J20 for $1500. Later that year, we got another rusted out 76 401 Cherk. Drove it on the trailer for $400 and gave the 2 bbl Holley back to the seller.

[KJ Ryu]

I got my first 401 in the second 77 in my sig. All I know is what I was told about it. "race cam" and "10.5:1 compression" It came with a Holley double pumper that would not stay tuned, always ran rich. I swapped to a 1407, jetted way down; and now to a Sniper EFI. Runs amazingly well. Way better than a stock 360. I paid $2500 for a straight, slightly rusted, running truck.

I also have a block, crank, and a few other parts of a 401 in my garage that are still within factory specs for runout and taper. Not sure why the guy even asked if I wanted it but, for $500, I think it was a steal.

BUT!!! The other 77 in my sig also has a "built" motor. Supposedly built for torque. I do know that even with stock 4.10 gears, I can do 2nd gear burnouts, in high range, all day on 37x14 Irok tires with it. It has the 1406 carb it came with. Price: gift from a friend.

[rocklaurence]

Those are Great Finds--401s in old beaters are Kool. I've been salvaging these vehicles for 5 years here in Florida and have never seen a 401. However, my comment was related to stroking a 360cid to get those extra 41 cubes. Weather offset grinding the crank/or 401 crank, and all the effort to create a rod/piston and deck hieght that will fit with the new crank is a lot of work.

[derf]

Those are Great Finds--401s in old beaters are Kool. I've been salvaging these vehicles for 5 years here in Florida and have never seen a 401. However, my comment was related to stroking a 360cid to get those extra 41 cubes. Weather offset grinding the crank/or 401 crank, and all the effort to create a rod/piston and deck hieght that will fit with the new crank is a lot of work.

From what I remember, you can use a 401 crank in a 360 block. There is some clearancing for the rods at the bottom of the cylinders that needs to be done. And I'm not sure about the journal sizes and whether they have to be dealt with. But a 401 crank with stock 401 rods in a slightly over bored 360 will net you in the neighborhood of 390ci. Not a full 401ci but you have a lot less trouble dealing with thin cylinder walls in a 360 block so much less chance of overheating.

[tgreese]

Custom pistons needed I would expect.

[rocklaurence]

Those are Great Finds--401s in old beaters are Kool. I've been salvaging these vehicles for 5 years here in Florida and have never seen a 401. However, my comment was related to stroking a 360cid to get those extra 41 cubes. Weather offset grinding the crank/or 401 crank, and all the effort to create a rod/piston and deck hieght that will fit with the new crank is a lot of work.

From what I remember, you can use a 401 crank in a 360 block. There is some clearancing for the rods at the bottom of the cylinders that needs to be done. And I'm not sure about the journal sizes and whether they have to be dealt with. But a 401 crank with stock 401 rods in a slightly over bored 360 will net you in the neighborhood of 390ci. Not a full 401ci but you have a lot less trouble dealing with thin cylinder walls in a 360 block so much less chance of overheating.

That would be a good/affordable build. You'll likely need new pitons any way and if you already have a 401 crank/rods your all set. Have the piston compression bumped up to 10:1 and and RPM cam....

[MReese Wagoneer]

So I did it!!!!
Ordered the 401 from JeepRecyclers today .
!!!!!!!


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[Cecil14]

So I did it!!!!
Ordered the 401 from JeepRecyclers today .
!!!!!!!


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WOW they are proud of most of their stuff, aren't they? Not sure I could pony up for anything off that site.

[MReese Wagoneer]

So I did it!!!!
Ordered the 401 from JeepRecyclers today .
!!!!!!!


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WOW they are proud of most of their stuff, aren't they? Not sure I could pony up for anything off that site.

You know he is proud of what he sells, but he did all the work finding and retrieving it and shipping it , is it worth it !!
To me it is !!


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[MReese Wagoneer]

Parts are showing up , not too much longer
#bjsoffroad



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[will e]

Shiney! You might check out 'stage 8' locking header bolts. They are a bit of a pain to install but they WILL keep your header bolts from coming loose.

[MReese Wagoneer]

So Jeep Recyclers’s delivered, Adam was up front and delivered as promised
The next week or so will be prepping for install
I recommend Adam with Jeep Recyclers if you need used parts !!


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