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If you can weld exhaust tubing... typically the piece of pipe nearest the exhaust manifold is called the "exhaust pipe" and the pipe to the rear of the muffler is the "tailpipe." If you can buy the exhaust pipe for a ca '94 XJ Cherokee, you may be able to splice it to the original exhaust. My J10 exhaust crosses over to the passenger side and exits to the rear from there. Link to the exhaust system you might buy?

900€ seems very expensive, considering how simple the original exhaust for an inline 6 cylinder car is. One pipe, to a muffler, and a single pipe exiting.

Good idea, I'll look for a XJ 4.0 exhaust pipe first, but anyway I need all the rest, the entire exhaust currently fitted is not stock and very messy, but the right exhaust pipe would be a better starting point

I do not remember on what web shop I saw the exhaust for SJ 258, BJ sells one for the 360. Maybe summit or rockauto

The exhaust pipe for a 1994 4.0L XJ Cherokee is Walker # 54488. You can look up Walker exhaust parts here: http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/wa ... log-lookup The exhaust pipe for a 4.0L Grand Cherokee might also work.

I have found it on rockauto indeed, I was watching right now
27$ plus postage
I think I will go for it, here I can be easily asked 100€ for a used one...

tgreese wrote:If the block has a threaded hole in the same location as the 258 block, you could put it there. A tee fitting at the existing sensor would also work.

Trace the wires from the existing sensor to understand what it's doing.

Just got the new oil sending unit, it should have a 1/8 NPT thread (it is 9.9mm large), and same should be the pressure switch from the 4.0 engine from what I can read online, I happened to find a tee fitting MFM asymmetric 1/8 NPT in brass, which seems perfect to accomodate the two units

Just one doubt: what type of connector is supposed to be used here?

If you can find one of these, that would be ideal. "GM Coolant Temperature Sender Connector" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5665pt/overview/

Unfortunately, the connector on the original sender is different from this sender. But this is what is available, and the aftermarket sellers declare this to be close enough to the original.

Just tried to use a standard faston connector and it works, maybe just some insulation to be added

I drove it today for about 30km, the temp gauge works fine with the new sending unit!

I noticed my amp meter is stuck at +30 all the time, which sounds strange given the battery is new and fully charged and I do not have any additional load like AC or fog lights, so alternator shouldn’t charge so much

Engine bay is full of relays and fuses, PO made a lot of mods, so not easy to understand whether he did the bypass or not...I hope it will not burn away!

Next step is the oil pressure unit, then exhaust rebuild and new drive shaft joints (lot of play...)

Lots online about the ammeter. Trace it out and compare to the original diagram.

I know I read already quite few topics
Anyway, I understood it goes to 30A with lights on, and drop to 5A with lights off
It’s a starting point...
Thanks

Look at how the ammeter works - that might help.

Was anybody able to identify my carb from above pics?

It works but seems a bit temperamental depending on weather and I have read elsewhere that BBD (in case mine is actually a BBD) is not very good (PO told me he replaced the carb years back so I assume it is no longer the stock one)

Just out of curiosity since I am not planning to replace it, just maybe to clean/adjust it (if I ever find a good carb expert, they are becoming white flies...)

Meanwhile....it works!

I have also tested battery, alternator and charging system with a midtronics cpx900 tester and all works fine. I have 14+ volts to the battery with fan and lights on and 13,5 without loads (engine at 2000+ rpms)

mine also is a 1979 model but Australian compliance plate & registraion says 1980 model, got bit bit confusing when I got a 80 model tsm for it as a bit of difference between the years. Asked a few questions here & soon got on top of it.

Yeah I am happy to say this forum is being a great source of info and help, I was able to fix majority of the issues just by asking here
I love forums, god bless them!
On saturday I drove it for 100miles, mostly on highway at 90km/h steady and it did great. No overheating, oil pressure steady at mid scale, fuel gauge working
Mileage isn't very good (about 25lt for 160km) but expected, I still need to fine tune carb
Next, besides fixing the exhaust (the new exhaust pipe is on the way) is replacing U-joints because of some play

I got the exhaust pipe from autozone and at a first glance it seems it may fit without modifications
What I cannot find is a shop willing to build the rest of the exhaust for less than 1k€....
So, alternative plan: I may buy the tail pipe from walker (pn 46537, this is for the 5.9L but the shape should be ok, it is has 2,5" in/out diameter), a universal muffler with matching diameter and a straight pipe and go for a diy job or at a welder's shop
Autozone has the tail pipe (ebay) and millions of mufflers, can anybody recommend one that matches the tailpipe?

I HIGHEEEELY suggest you get some exhaust paint and paint any exhaust piping you buy that isnt stainless steel... walker... anything from autozone unless its magnaflow is all mild chinese rusting fast steel.

Trust me walker pipes have rusted out on me in 2 years.

First run the jeep burn the oils off the pipe then paint it.. and folllow the (baking) intructions

Starter motor installed and working fine, which confirms my flywheel is from the original 258
Now, another issue to solve: clutch is bouncing when not fully released, eg during slow reverse while parking, making the full rig jumping....I think I need a new flywheel
Found a cheap one on rockauto (from perfection clutch, is it any good? Price is attractive...)
PN is 501001

I think I will resurface my flywheel, found a shop able to do it
Fun fact: yesterday I ran out of fuel, with just 370km on the odometer after having refuelled about 70lt. 5km/l is a little too much...!

Yes that's a little bit much, to compare mine is using 1,3L/10km But i have the fuel injection from the 4.0L engine i love it no messing around
with the choke.

5km/l * 4l/gal * 0.6 miles/km = ca 12 mpg. Not terrible. How fast were you driving? Makes a huge difference. City vs. highway too. Likely some tune-up would help. Who knows what the tune is for a carbureted 4.0L. Regardless, you should be able to do better than that, esp. with a manual transmission. The factory Mopar/Bosch multiport fuel injection for the 4.0L would likely help a lot.