Replacing oil pan, what else while I'm there?

[89er]

I finally got some money saved up and I've had enough of the oil pan drain plug hole leaking. (likely stripped by an impact wrench decades ago)

So I'm about to purchase and replace the oil pan, is there anything good to upgrade or replace in there while I have it off?

[Stuka]

I would do the rear main seal if it leaks. If it doesn't already leak, it most likely will after being moved while taking the old pan off.

Actually, if it was me I would do the timing chain too. But its a lot more work and cost.

[will e]

Add a bung for an oil temp sensor.

[letank]

So I'm about to purchase and replace the oil pan, is there anything good to upgrade or replace in there while I have it off?

Weld the hole shut and put the drain plug facing back so the oil does not drain on the pumpkin... or get an oil pan for a pre-79 era 360, the drain plug is facing rearward

[babywag]

If it was me I'd just try to retap it to next larger size & get the matching new plug. There is a thick plate inside pan so retapping is pretty easy.

The rear main is encased by block & rear bearing cap, dropping pain won't do anything or create a leak.

An older '79-down pan doesn't have recess for exhaust pipe
Stick with the correct '80-up oil pan. Unless you don't mind taking hammer to new pan.

[Stuka]

If it was me I'd just try to retap it to next larger size & get the matching new plug. There is a thick plate inside pan so retapping is pretty easy.

The rear main is encased by block & rear bearing cap, dropping pain won't do anything or create a leak.

An older '79-down pan doesn't have recess for exhaust pipe
Stick with the correct '80-up oil pan. Unless you don't mind taking hammer to new pan.

Ahh, you are right regarding the rear main seal. Been too long since I have done an AMC V8 pan gasket.

[89er]

I would do the rear main seal if it leaks. If it doesn't already leak, it most likely will after being moved while taking the old pan off.

Actually, if it was me I would do the timing chain too. But its a lot more work and cost.

I can't really tell if it's leaking because the drain plug is letting so much out. I'm not sure how to find out if the RMS is leaking. What's the best timing chain to get? Looks tough but doesn't look super difficult.

[letank]

I would do the rear main seal if it leaks. If it doesn't already leak, it most likely will after being moved while taking the old pan off.

Actually, if it was me I would do the timing chain too. But its a lot more work and cost.

I can't really tell if it's leaking because the drain plug is letting so much out. I'm not sure how to find out if the RMS is leaking. What's the best timing chain to get? Looks tough but doesn't look super difficult.

for leaks get a dye, the UV green is not as good as the UV red, add to oil, run engine for 10min or a couple of miles... night time is better... of course you need to clean up the area to pinpoint the origin of the leak.

for timing chain, I used the stock style, bjs , rock auto, but you have to make sure that the oil hole on the gear is lined up with the cam, otherwise you are in for a bad day a few miles later

a very good post
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthre ... ost1678711

of course if doing the timing chain, you can do the water pump.... and so on.... with all the headache about the bump on some of the water pump that get knocked by the harmonic balancer... the gmb is a good pump, aluminum....

http://fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7193

I installed one last year, while doing the camshaft while I was there

[will e]

Michel, I looked for the dye at a local parts store and they didn't have it. DO you have a link or a brand name?

[letank]

Michel, I looked for the dye at a local parts store and they didn't have it. DO you have a link or a brand name?

the bottle came from a truck repair shop as a give away, cummings part # 3376891, it is on ebay, labelled Fluorescent yellow dye 32%. I had the bottle for over 5 years, and it is still good

[will e]

Thanks Michel, found it on amazon and ebay.

[letank]

Thanks Michel, found it on amazon and ebay.

Excellent, I used it a week ago to check PS leak on a bimmer, perfect glow with the yellow glasses and the UV light that comes with the A/C leak detector kit sold at parts store. The dye in the A/C leak test kit is weak for oil leaks, the one from cummings is so good, it showed residue on the PS cover cap threads, leaky cap O-ring.

[candymancan]

If you do replace the pan make sure you get the rigjt one... i cant remember the exact year.. but i think it was an 88 or 89 and the pan didnt fit on my 90 they changed the starter sizes and the pans chsnged shape accordingly

[babywag]

If you do replace the pan make sure you get the rigjt one... i cant remember the exact year.. but i think it was an 88 or 89 and the pan didnt fit on my 90 they changed the starter sizes and the pans chsnged shape accordingly

The pan changed in 1980 for driver's side drop front axle & exhaust y-pipe changes.
There was no change after that even for the mitsubishi starter change in 1988.

[candymancan]

Tell that to the pan i got off the 86 or 87 grand wagoneer. I forgot its exact year... my friend snd i sat down there for 2 hours trying to get it to fit and it wouldnt fit. On my 90

[babywag]

Tell that to the pan i got off the 86 or 87 grand wagoneer. I forgot its exact year... my friend snd i sat down there for 2 hours trying to get it to fit and it wouldnt fit. On my 90

You can swap pans any year '70-'90's only difference is drain plug locations and late pans have clearances for axle & exhaust.
If it didn't fit it was bent or hanging up on pickup or something else.