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HI. I have a 1990 GW rebuilt motor and installed and running . I de-smogged every thing no cto nothing. Have vacuum to distributor from manifold . The question is do I need vacuum to accelerator pump nipple under front of carb or does that go to charcoal can . rough idle on new motor I have not run down highway yet working on all new floor pans.
Nothing to do with the vapor recovery. It's the vacuum supply to the power valve. Must be connected to manifold vacuum, since the vacuum holds the power valve closed. Used to be internal on the 2100, made an external connection on the 2150.
EGR held open can also give you a rough idle. If present, must be connected to ported vacuum through the EGR CTO. Manifold vacuum will give you EGR at idle and make a rough idle.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
TY T . EGR is there with nothing going to it When I removed egr to rebuild motor there was a block off plate under egr should I put block off plate back
Hopefully you left the PCV system in place. If you can get the EGR working too it's a pretty good system and doesn't impact performance. I don't know about vapor recovery on the 2150.
There's a larger nipple on top of the carb that goes to vapor canister -- but is controlled by a valve that is only opened when ignition is shut off (it's closed while ignition is on). That's the carb bowl vent.
1990 GW with HD towing package -- everything works! (today, anyway)
Yes, both the float bowl and the gas tank vent to the vapor recovery system. The flap on the air cleaner that closes tight when the engine is off is part of this - forces any evaporation from the float bowl through the canister. There should be a vaccum diagram - http://oljeep.com/gw/vac/90/90-VacuumLayout.jpg - wht's labeled "bowl vent" here is a solenoid that opens when the engine is off. When running, the bowl is vented to the air horn.
Re the EGR, I'd look at the diagram and manual and see if you have enough parts to put it back. You'll need at least the TVS and both CTOs (Dual and EGR).
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
You dont need a plate for the egr. You can also just put screws in the 2 or 3 vacuume lines on it. MY egr wasnt working anymore caus8ng my engine to run like crap and die. so i plugged the lines works fine now
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)