fuel,oil, temp guage fuse location

[DARREN LILLY]

Hi I replaced a blinker globe & found on testing my guages stopped working. Looking for fuse, I think its the bottom right side one? in the fuse box but its not labelled as such but pulled it & any other ones I could get at easily to visually check & no problem found. Heard there is a earth wire for them but have no idea where to look. Anyone suggest anything else to look for, thanks.

[tgreese]

Year, model, equipment?

Good to put that in your sig so it's always present.

Do you have the TSM for your year? Such info is there.

[DARREN LILLY]

sorry for the repeat posts kept coming back saying failed contact admin, 1980 chief all standard 360 auto, got a tsm delivered last week but not sure if I'm looking in the correct section, got pictures of the fuse box but cant see any labelled as guages, manual is a reprint but should be good? Not very good with computers how do I put this sig info up. can I delete the repeat posts. Thanks.

[dodgerammit]

Your gauges (oil/coolant/fuel) will work off of the coolant gauge. It has a built in voltage regulator. I'd look at replacing that gauge as a first step. May be a thread here about testing it to make sure before replacement. BJ's has them. The ammeter is the only gauge working on its own. Probably be a good idea to do the ammeter bypass while in there. There will be threads about that either here or on ifsja pages.

[dodgerammit]

Click on your username on your post. Click on edit profile. Then click edit signature.

[DARREN LILLY]

Thanks dodgerammit yes the only guage working is ammeter & all the guages were new 3500 miles ago, changed the speedo same time not that it means they have to be good, been caught out before with a new cps that was faulty. Got some reading to do, the manual I got is hard to read as the print is smudged in the fuse box diagram. Alls I done was replace the blinker globes, they were LED but couldnt get them as they were withdrawn from the market as they apparently caused interference with electronics in newer cars so used standard globes, tested them & worked but the guages were dead. by the way thanks also on the edit signature help.

[babywag]

oljeep.com has service manuals online that you can download.
gauges changed very little from '73-'85 and the manuals have good troubleshooting info.

[letank]

No fuses for the gauges. But a there is probably a fuse for the wire that brinks the (+) reference to the cluster for the multi pin connector. EDIT, fuse is 3 amp at the bottom right of the fuse panel, labelled trans kickdown on the 1978 manual with glass fuses,, I suspect that the 1980 has the same configuration. I do not have a clear print of the later manual at the moment, 1980 being a flip year and the vehicle being down under, it is a bit of a challenge to be sure of what is your configuration, what transmission TF727 or TH400 with the quadratrack 1339 or quadratrack NP version that was on our production year in the US!

Do you have glass fuse of the plastic colored embedded fuses?

As said above, the gauges are powered by the voltage regulator - a crude winding to lower 12v to 5 volts- housed in the coolant gauge . All the senders for the gauges rely on ground resistance as referenced to the battery/engine ground.

A search here will give you some good links and a way to build a dedicated tester

http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9404

Page 3-47 here: http://oljeep.com/gw/74_tsm/3-Electrica ... End%29.pdf Step-by-step instructions. (link provided by Tim)

a ground wire in the back of the instrument cluster can be added, and the pins on the back of the cluster can be loose and be resoldered by a quick application of solder to reinforce the pin(s)

If you are up to it you can remanufacture a voltage regulator for a reliable/constant voltage

http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8334

cluster feed for the glass fuse here

[DARREN LILLY]

no glass fuse just the plastic spade terminal type, TH400 not sure on the QT. Bottom right is where I was told it was but it is not labelled as cluster that I can see but that fuse is good. Think I'll try & find all the electrical parts to remanufacture the VR if not a new guage. Thanks Michel

[letank]

no glass fuse just the plastic spade terminal type, TH400 not sure on the QT. Bottom right is where I was told it was but it is not labelled as cluster that I can see but that fuse is good. Think I'll try & find all the electrical parts to remanufacture the VR if not a new guage. Thanks Michel

de nada, for the plastic type, check the fuse labelled ignition (IGN LPS) a 15A one on some schematic and 25A on the Haynes, is a possibility , also in the lower right.

For ref I am putting the schematic of the Haynes, as labelled typical, but no fuel low warning for the earlier years

[tgreese]

no glass fuse just the plastic spade terminal type, TH400 not sure on the QT. ...

Being outside the USA, your Jeep may be equipped differently from the same-year domestically produced models. A 1980 in the US would not have a TH400; instead it would have a Chrysler Corp TF727. 1980 is a watershed year for these Jeeps and there are major changes between '79 and '80. If your front driveshaft is on the left of the engine viewed from the cabin, it conforms to the 1980 USA model. The 1979 driveshaft drops on the right. The Quadratrac name could be applied to either year, but they used completely different transfer cases. 1979 and earlier used a Borg-Warner transfer case with the GM TH400, and the 1980 used the TF727 with a New Process Gear transfer case. I suggest you get under there and look, maybe take a few pics and post them. Fairly sure the electrical does not change much, but there will be differences from year to year.

[DARREN LILLY]

yes front driveshaft on RHS, TH400 identification plate stamped 1980 model. Any other changes between the 79/80 models, lights, grill, interior that may help distinguish between the two. Edit: Just got told we were up to 2 years behind you guys, some 81 models using 79 gear. Now for the good or bad news, whats the better model?

[tgreese]

The primary ID will be the vehicle identification number (VIN). Domestic vehicles have a plate on the LHS of the firewall with the VIN, paint and trim codes and some factory-only stuff. There is a '79 TSM complete here http://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html that shows the VIN plate. You could download and browse through. Might be enlightening. I would not say never, but it seems unlikely that Jeep would have put together an export model that was wildly different from their domestic models. There is some precedent for discontinued domestic models to continue being built for export...

[DARREN LILLY]

VIN~J9A17NN143869 ~ J= jeep, 9 =79 model, A=lhd but its rhd ?, well at least it comfirms the year model.

[PossumJr]

Sorry if I shouldn't be hitting up a thread that hasn't seen posts in a couple months but thought I would chime in if this hasn't been solved. I just went through my cluster inch by inch with the same problem. If you haven't already, download the FSM and wiring diagrams from oljeep.com, they are lifesavers and the instrumentation section has a nice pictorial diagnostic chart for the instruments. Can't imagine the wiring would change for export models, so the fuse to check is the 3A fuse on the farthest right, 2nd from the bottom. Blown fuse = no switched ignition voltage to the cluster connection. If you follow the DARS in the FSM it leads you through multiple checks but usually the actions are non-specific and don't always address root causes. Big issue will always be faulty grounds which I wouldn't be surprised if that's a common reason for cluster issues. The voltage regulator mentioned earlier won't function without proper grounding to the individual gauge (coolant in FSJ case) as the CVR depends on the case for the ground connection which is common to the cluster ground, which comes in through one of two connectors plugged into the rear of the circuit board. Another way for the cluster to fail by way of the CVR is the noise suppression coil on the circuit board. 12V switched comes in, across the coil, then to the CVR input of the temperature gauge, failure of the coil means no voltage to CVR which means no gauge function. Sorry if this comes off as rambling, but there's quite a bit to check and I'm scatterbrained. I'm an EE by trade and spent a lot of time soaking in the cluster wiring so if anyone happens to see this and has a question I may be able to help (maybe).

[yuza]

Hi PossumJr, do you know how to check whether the noise suppression coil works or not?
And if not, where to find a replacement?
I am troubleshooting my dash (no gauge works...) and already tested there is continuity between coolant gauge body to ground pin on the left side (viewing the cluster from behind) where the squared connector is attached, as well as tested the CVR by applying 12V from a motorcycle battery to pin I and reading 5V out of pin A
But I still see no gauge moving...