BJ’s 21 circuit universal wiring harness

[Bryon]

I am about to begin the installation of the new wiring harness, but I cannot find the instructions
Does anybody have a set they could send me pics of?
I would appreciate any tips for installation too
I can only assume that I do not remove the whole dash because that requires removing the windshield too. If I take the instrument cluster out will that give me enough space and access to work?

[Stuka]

You can do it without pulling the dash. You just need to be a bit of a contortionist for some things. If its a universal wiring harness, than chances are there arent any instructions for it.

[Bryon]

BJ’s said that there is an installation manual that comes with the part, and the PO said he thought it was in the box. So one does exist somewhere

[tgreese]

Why do you need a new wiring harness? Typically these replacement harnesses are for hot rods, with no terminations - basically a fuse panel with a bunch of colored wire. BJ's just resells somebody else's product, so you might be able to find some instructions under the original brand, like Painless or EZ-Wire.

Just a comment - just because the PO gave you the kit with the Jeep does not mean you have to use it. I would encourage you to repair what wiring you have, rather than rip out the original harness and replace it with a universal kit.

[Bryon]

My main concern is having to get inside the steering column.
Would I have to remove the wheel and go in from there?

[rocklaurence]

The steering column has its own harness. The Universal harness should plug into it.

[tgreese]

I don't see how a universal wiring kit helps you with the column. The new harness does not go into the column. It expects you to use the existing column wiring.

[Bryon]

The steering column has its own harness. The Universal harness should plug into it.

Thanks!
That is a huge relief!

[derf]

In fact, the steering column is pure GM standard. Most universal harnesses are super easy to connect.

[SkylinePCG]

There are instructions, but they are brief and vague. It says things like”colors may not match,” “install harness” and “connect wires.” The wiring isn’t bad but the instructions are horrible.

IMO if you really want to rewrite, Z&M has an excellent, PRETERMINATED harness- they’re spendy and probably cost 5x what the one you have did- but install goes SO. FAST. I got sidelined by winter since I’m doing TBI at the same time, but Zacks stuff is really nice and he’s real good about customer service too.

[letank]

Why do you need a new wiring harness? -snip-

I would encourage you to repair what wiring you have, rather than rip out the original harness and replace it with a universal kit.

X2, the potentially damaged wiring harness in our riggs is the harness above the passenger side exhaust manifold where the wires are cooked

[Bryon]

Why do you need a new wiring harness? Typically these replacement harnesses are for hot rods, with no terminations - basically a fuse panel with a bunch of colored wire. BJ's just resells somebody else's product, so you might be able to find some instructions under the original brand, like Painless or EZ-Wire.

Just a comment - just because the PO gave you the kit with the Jeep does not mean you have to use it. I would encourage you to repair what wiring you have, rather than rip out the original harness and replace it with a universal kit.

I am going to follow your advice.
The biggest issues are the stereo and heater/ac not working. I am going to check those connections with a voltage meter and trace the wires looking for problems.
Any advice on what would cause those two components specifically to not work?

Thanks!

[tgreese]

Do stereo and heat have their own circuits in the wiring? Likely they do. Year/model/equipment? Good to put that in your signature file.

You'll have to test on the car to see what's wrong with the circuits. Start at one end and work back until you find the fault. The most troublesome places are connectors, unless someone has messed with the wiring and cut or spliced in the middle of a wire. All the connectors in the harness are there for assembly line speed, not to make service easier. Corroded or loose connectors are the usual source of open circuits, especially on an old car.

What I did with my old cars 40 years ago was photocopy the wiring diagram I looked up at the library with the enlarge setting of a photocopier, and tape the pages together to make one big diagram. Then I could follow the wires with colored pencils and trace the connections step by step. I'd buy a decent meter - something better than the one that Harbor Freight sometimes gives away - and some long test leads with clips on the ends.

Follow the factory wiring diagram and refuse to be overwhelmed. Look at one circuit at a time trace it though, both on paper and with your meter. Car wiring is really simple if you focus on one circuit at a time.