Trouble Starting

Stock FSJ Tech Area
Post Reply
User avatar

Topic author
Bryon
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:09 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Trouble Starting

Post by Bryon »

My new-to-me 89 GW was having trouble starting and gasping when taking off, so I changed the fuel pump. The old pump had a loose and wiggling arm, so felt confident that this was the main issue.

I read that I would be a good idea to put in an extra fuel filter just before the pump to prevent any debris from the tank fouling the new pump. I also changed the main filter between the pump and carb with the return line

Now, it takes a few tries to get the engine to start (a drop of gas into the carb helps speed this up), and it doesn’t seem to take off as fast when I gun it.

I was wondering if the additional filter is creating too much resistance for the fuel to get to the carb when starting the engine and too little flow to allow a quick take off?
User avatar

Topic author
Bryon
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:09 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by Bryon »

I removed the additional filter and it drives great.
I would only guess this would be a good idea with an electric fuel pump
User avatar

Topic author
Bryon
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:09 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by Bryon »

I removed the additional filter and it drives great.
I would only guess this would be a good idea with an electric fuel pump

will e
Posts: 5097
Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:21 am

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by will e »

Often times an electric fuel pump will have a filter right before the pump.

I am glad you got your problem fixed!
81 Waggy 'WILL E' Retired
82 Cherokee WT - SOA/SF/high steer/Alcan springs/agr box/Borgeson steering shaft/AMC 401/performer/holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/ALTAS (2.0/2.72/5.44)/D60 Snofighter(Yukon Zip,hubs,stubs,4.56)/14 Bolt (FF,BF shave, Discs, ARB,Artec Truss)/MTR 37X12.5/Corbeau XRS Baja & 5 point retractable harness/Hella Aux lights/tuffy console/killer32 sliders/Evil Twin bumpers, rack and roll cage/WARN 8000/TT Fabworks steering brace/dual batts/custom TC skid plate/ARB fridge

letank
Posts: 4010
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:16 pm
Location: SF bay area

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by letank »

very good, but make sure that the secondary filter, or the one above the valve cover has the return line at 12 o'clock, or above the central/middle fuel line on the filter
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
User avatar

Topic author
Bryon
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:09 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by Bryon »

letank wrote:very good, but make sure that the secondary filter, or the one above the valve cover has the return line at 12 o'clock, or above the central/middle fuel line on the filter
Well, as soon as I twisted the return valve on the main filter (it was at 4O’clock) and drove it the first time, the next startup was failed by a battery that wouldn’t start it. I was told the alternator and battery were good less than a month ago. Think it could be the ignition coil?
Anyway, I ordered a higher amp remanufactured alternator that arrives tomorrow. I’m going to be charging the battery before installation to start fresh.

letank
Posts: 4010
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:16 pm
Location: SF bay area

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by letank »

Bryon wrote:
letank wrote:very good, but make sure that the secondary filter, or the one above the valve cover has the return line at 12 o'clock, or above the central/middle fuel line on the filter
Well, as soon as I twisted the return valve on the main filter (it was at 4O’clock) and drove it the first time, the next startup was failed by a battery that wouldn’t start it. I was told the alternator and battery were good less than a month ago. Think it could be the ignition coil?
Anyway, I ordered a higher amp remanufactured alternator that arrives tomorrow. I’m going to be charging the battery before installation to start fresh.

Make sure that your ground circuit is making a good contact with the alternator. My alt bolt was so rusted that there was poor contacts with the alternator. When I did the break in of the camshaft, the cooling system had only water, that turned out to be really rusted because the system was exposed to air, so when the cooling system burped, it threw rusted water all over the engine compartiment. A few weeks later upon start up I could see that the voltmeter was swinging... dang, now I need an alternator. Upon dismantling the big bolt was really rusted... I had the alternator tested and it was fine... I used an extra wire from the common ground to the back of the alternator, your new alternator should have a bolt on the back at the 6 o'clock position

Image
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)

GrandW
Posts: 224
Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2018 6:19 pm

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by GrandW »

Building on Letank's sound advice, make sure your belt is tight enough or it won't spin it. Solo installed it, and couldn't hold it tight enough and bolt at the same time. Voltmeter said it was bad. Had a friend push it over while I tightened it, and it was suddenly it was good again.

Let us know what the solution was, good luck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer

candymancan
Posts: 3652
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:32 pm

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by candymancan »

Bryon wrote:
letank wrote:very good, but make sure that the secondary filter, or the one above the valve cover has the return line at 12 o'clock, or above the central/middle fuel line on the filter
Well, as soon as I twisted the return valve on the main filter (it was at 4O’clock) and drove it the first time, the next startup was failed by a battery that wouldn’t start it. I was told the alternator and battery were good less than a month ago. Think it could be the ignition coil?
Anyway, I ordered a higher amp remanufactured alternator that arrives tomorrow. I’m going to be charging the battery before installation to start fresh.

Get yourself a cheap multimeter trust me with these Jeeps youll need one.

Bad battery cables or corroded contact points can make it seem like the battery is dead. IA thought my starter qas bad as it kept clicking but it turned out to be bad contacts on the battery.. I just replaced the ground and positive wire and added a 2nd ground from the battery to the frame itself.

There is one main ground that goes to go the engine mount passenger side and it grounds the engine block and frame clean that up as well and grease it good after
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
User avatar

Topic author
Bryon
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:09 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Trouble Starting

Post by Bryon »

Got the battery fully charged to start her up and move her into the garage to work on replacing the alternator and after hooking up the battery I got a shock from the door.

This makes me think my electrical deficiency is from a loose wire somewhere
There are several things that are not working; stereo, heater blower, high beams, cruise control, fog lights, rear defroster, driver door dome light switch.
So tomorrow I am going to systematically remove the fuses for those wires and see what o get from that. The PO bought a new wiring harness for the interior that he never installed, but that is too large of a project to tackle by myself in one day.
Anybody live near Raleigh, NC that will help for pizza and beer?
Post Reply