1980 J10 6 cyl questions

[Rance]

I just got a 1980 J10 with a snow plow, 73,000 miles on the clock. VIN indicates it should have a 2 bbl carb but its got a 1 bbl. Probably engine switched at some time? My problem is that it idles great but lacks power--bogs down easily and sputters a lot. Has new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel filter. I'm guessing it probably needs a carb rebuild. Only marking on the carb is 6-2373. What kind of carb do I have and any suggestions for fixing the power problem will be appreciated. Thanks

[Cecil14]

I believe an '80 would have been into the Carter BBD days. Yours was likely switched due to the problematic nature of the BBD. They can work if you keep them meticulously tuned, but it's a pretty thankless job with mediocre rewards. They were never a great carb to start.

You *should* have a 2bbl aluminum intake. If you still have that on there, you can get an adapter and put on a motorcraft 2100/2150. Much superior carb and much easier to tune and keep tuned, plus a decent power increase.

A better first question, though, is what is your goal and what are you willing to get there? Do you just want to make what you have functional? Do you want fuel injection? Something in between?


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[Stuka]

1980's got both the old and new 258's. I have even seen hybrids where it has the old block and crank with the aluminum intake. You are better off from a reliability standpoint with the 1v carb, as the BBD is complete junk. Although the aluminum intake is quite a bit better. The BBD started being used in '76. The feedback version started in '81. But the 1v came standard on CJ's.

Do you have a cast iron or aluminum intake? If its aluminum, you most likely have an adapter with the 1V swapped on.

Your symptoms can certainly mean you are in need of a carb rebuild. The 1v is a pretty reliable carb. It won't have the power of an aftermarket carb, but will run well.

[tgreese]

Yes, 1977 was the first year for the 2V BBD in the FSJ. It came along in the CJ a year or two later.

Not an aluminum intake manifold in 1980, I recall. 1980 was the last year for the old style "heavy" 258 with the iron intake and exhaust manifolds. But again, it should be a 2V manifold that went with the BBD.

6-2373 is a number that appears to identify a Carter BBD, the correct carburetor for that truck. Check the link - https://www.partrequest.com/auto-parts- ... 3410376356 Note that the throat of the BBD is narrow, and it looks like a 1V carb without close inspection. You should open the choke flap and look down the throat of the carburetor with a flashlight and make sure it's a 1V.

The factory 1V for the earlier engines was the Carter YF. it has been used on lots of different applications, and is trouble-free and easy to rebuild.

If you don't know what carb you have, post up a couple of pictures and we can ID it.

[Stuka]

Ahh, if it is a BBD as tgreese suggest, that totally explains the issues you are seeing. As they are known for having such issues. I put a Weber on my truck about a month after buying it and never looked back. Its a been a rock solid carb for the last 15 years I have had it on there.

[Rance]

Yep, you guys were right, it is a two barrel. My bad... just looked like a 1 bbl from the outside.

Yes it has an iron manifold.

Its a real beater/rust bucket-too far gone to restore, but I plan to use it for plowing snow on 6 miles of gravel road, maybe half a dozen times a year, then maybe some general hauling around the ranch. It will most likely never see more than a county road.

You mentioned a Weber carb? Is that a direct swap? I don't want to put a lot of money in the truck

Thanks!

[tgreese]

I would try rebuilding the BBD first. This will be the cheapest route. I kinda think the stepper-motor controlled version used from 1981 on (?) are more troublesome than the earlier versions, though all the BBDs have their issues. I know that the carb on my '77 would always stall on descent to idle; it helps to drill out the idle tubes as described here http://www.jeeptech.com/engine/carter.html I'd also look that the carb body is not so worn out that air leaks in around the throttle shaft where it passes through the carb body. A shot of carb cleaner on the end of the throttle shaft will detect that by the engine speeding up. Also, a worn shaft makes it impossible to set a consistent idle - BTDT. If the carb body is worn out, a carb shop can fix it (bushings in the carb body or oversized shaft) or you can exchange for a reman.

You can also buy a kit to install a Ford 2100 or 2150 carb on these engines. That's what my J10 currently has - though I sourced mine from a junkyard. These carbs have gotten scarce in the junkyards, but you can buy new 2150s from a guy on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MotorCraft ... :rk:5:pf:0 The other popular choice is the Holley-Weber kit sold by Redline. http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/jeep/ These are available through many distributors.

[Stuka]

Weber makes a kit with adapters to go onto an FSJ AMC 258. But I would also try rebuilding the BBD first, as it is a lot cheaper. And since this is a ranch truck, the 2150 swap may be a better solution if you can find a good used one.