Here we go89er wrote: Oh sweet, any chance you could upload a pic of that page?
From Haynes manual #50029 that covers 72 to 91
Here we go89er wrote: Oh sweet, any chance you could upload a pic of that page?
I would emphatically urge you to buy some good electronic grade solder. The Kester solder that I linked above is excellent. The conventional lead-tin solder melts at a lower temperature than the lead-free solders, flows beautifully, and will make your results better and your task much easier. I have used the lead-free solder for plumbing (where it is now required) and for making parts with sheet metal, and it's fine for that. But I used a common butane torch for those jobs, and likely would have had difficulty if I had to rely on the old-school irons.89er wrote:...
This is great advice. I will absolutely be getting some adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, not real satisfied with the cheap tubing I bought. I'll have to check on the solder, I think is just a rather thick lead free electrical solder.
I'm using the Power Probe micro torch, which has been excellent so far but I don't have much to compare it to. The shield for heatshrink that protects other wires is ace.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-MTKI ... B01LTHHP8W
Where does it go on the other side of the firewall?89er wrote:So I'm thinking of running a power wire from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box by drilling through this grommet spot where a yellow, brown, and green wire? comes out from the 4 wheel drive switch.
I can't seem to find in the FSM where the brown cut line is supposed to run to. Anyone happen to know?
That broken red line is for transfer case 4wd switch.89er wrote:So I'm thinking of running a power wire from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box by drilling through this grommet spot where a yellow, brown, and green wire? comes out from the 4 wheel drive switch.
I can't seem to find in the FSM where the brown cut line is supposed to run to. Anyone happen to know?
Good advice thanks. I'm using an 8gauge wire to go from battery to new aux fuse box. What size fuse do you think would work for that? Could I just use an inline fuse on the power wire, perhaps a 30amp, not far from the battery?tgreese wrote: Where does it go on the other side of the firewall?
You could put the fuse panel under the hood, and then send your smaller gauge wires through the firewall. Unused locations in the bulkhead connector would work well.
Be sure to protect the otherwise unfused power wire from the battery. Put a circuit breaker or fuse as close to the power source (battery? solenoid?) as possible.
Ok I found the spot where the yellow/green/red lines plug into. The yellow one ended up being broken too, and the green one is taped together! How do I go about replacing those 4wd vacuum lines? They aren't normal vacuum tubing, instead they are the most brittle plastic.babywag wrote:That broken red line is for transfer case 4wd switch.89er wrote:So I'm thinking of running a power wire from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box by drilling through this grommet spot where a yellow, brown, and green wire? comes out from the 4 wheel drive switch.
I can't seem to find in the FSM where the brown cut line is supposed to run to. Anyone happen to know?
IIRC it should be manifold vacuum @ plastic vacuum firewall can.
10 ga is fine for 30 amps, unless you already have the 8 ga wire. My picture shows a Bussman 30 amp thermal circuit breaker with a weatherproof cover. You can buy a breaker and cover together on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-420855-1 ... aker+cover This breaker is a resettable type, though the one I used is thermal and resets on its own when it cools. Both are better than a fuse.89er wrote:Good advice thanks. I'm using an 8gauge wire to go from battery to new aux fuse box. What size fuse do you think would work for that? Could I just use an inline fuse on the power wire, perhaps a 30amp, not far from the battery?tgreese wrote: Where does it go on the other side of the firewall?
You could put the fuse panel under the hood, and then send your smaller gauge wires through the firewall. Unused locations in the bulkhead connector would work well.
Be sure to protect the otherwise unfused power wire from the battery. Put a circuit breaker or fuse as close to the power source (battery? solenoid?) as possible.
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You can use windshield washer hose to rejoin them. helps if you lube it up with windex beforehand.89er wrote:
Ok I found the spot where the yellow/green/red lines plug into. The yellow one ended up being broken too, and the green one is taped together! How do I go about replacing those 4wd vacuum lines? They aren't normal vacuum tubing, instead they are the most brittle plastic.