Wiring melt under dash

[letank]

Oh sweet, any chance you could upload a pic of that page?

Here we go



From Haynes manual #50029 that covers 72 to 91

[candymancan]

A tip to get solder to spread better go buy yourself some flux.. I dont care if solder has flux in it because if you put some flux all over the wire then solder.. Itll spread all over all the wire quickly like water and not leave fat blobs. Also to keep the wires from being fat what i do is just push them together.. Yea push the copper strandd together then twist. If you twist the wires wrapping them in loops itll just make the end result a big fat hump under the heatshrink. Push the two ends into eachother twist flux and solder

Man your wire harness scares me... I think maybe ill take mine off and inspect it... uhg

[tgreese]

...

This is great advice. I will absolutely be getting some adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, not real satisfied with the cheap tubing I bought. I'll have to check on the solder, I think is just a rather thick lead free electrical solder.
I'm using the Power Probe micro torch, which has been excellent so far but I don't have much to compare it to. The shield for heatshrink that protects other wires is ace.


https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-MTKI ... B01LTHHP8W

I would emphatically urge you to buy some good electronic grade solder. The Kester solder that I linked above is excellent. The conventional lead-tin solder melts at a lower temperature than the lead-free solders, flows beautifully, and will make your results better and your task much easier. I have used the lead-free solder for plumbing (where it is now required) and for making parts with sheet metal, and it's fine for that. But I used a common butane torch for those jobs, and likely would have had difficulty if I had to rely on the old-school irons.

I would not use a torch for electrical wiring. Just my preference.

[89er]

Well I got all the shorts and wire melt all repaired finally on Saturday.
Then I did transmission fluid + filter swap + upgraded gasket and trans skid pan Sunday. Nobody warned me about how stinky old transmission fluid is! Thankfully I was wearing protection but my poor carport is gonna stink for a month.

Today I'm going to start installing an alternate Fuse Box (bought from amazon MICTUNING LED Illuminated Automotive Blade Fuse Holder Box 10-Circuit Fuse Block with Cover)


I only have 2 circuits that need to go into this new box for now. The Turn/Bu as you can see on my old fuse box,


and the Heater/Fan. Once I get some of this figured out or break down crying for help I'll report back.

[89er]

So I'm thinking of running a power wire from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box by drilling through this grommet spot where a yellow, brown, and green wire? comes out from the 4 wheel drive switch.
I can't seem to find in the FSM where the brown cut line is supposed to run to. Anyone happen to know?

[candymancan]

Qiestion.. above the fuses are those square fat relays.. white colored i think mine are.. one of those is soooo loose. Its like it can almost fall out.. Any idea why ?

Also transmission fluid doesnt smell too bad unless its burned like brown or black.

The worst smelling fluid.oil on a car is gear oil.. Have you ever changed the diff fluid yet ?? Yes smells like cat piss x10 and doesnt come off anything

[tgreese]

So I'm thinking of running a power wire from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box by drilling through this grommet spot where a yellow, brown, and green wire? comes out from the 4 wheel drive switch.
I can't seem to find in the FSM where the brown cut line is supposed to run to. Anyone happen to know?

Where does it go on the other side of the firewall?

You could put the fuse panel under the hood, and then send your smaller gauge wires through the firewall. Unused locations in the bulkhead connector would work well.

Be sure to protect the otherwise unfused power wire from the battery. Put a circuit breaker or fuse as close to the power source (battery? solenoid?) as possible.

[babywag]

So I'm thinking of running a power wire from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box by drilling through this grommet spot where a yellow, brown, and green wire? comes out from the 4 wheel drive switch.
I can't seem to find in the FSM where the brown cut line is supposed to run to. Anyone happen to know?

That broken red line is for transfer case 4wd switch.
IIRC it should be manifold vacuum @ plastic vacuum firewall can.

[89er]

Where does it go on the other side of the firewall?

You could put the fuse panel under the hood, and then send your smaller gauge wires through the firewall. Unused locations in the bulkhead connector would work well.

Be sure to protect the otherwise unfused power wire from the battery. Put a circuit breaker or fuse as close to the power source (battery? solenoid?) as possible.

Good advice thanks. I'm using an 8gauge wire to go from battery to new aux fuse box. What size fuse do you think would work for that? Could I just use an inline fuse on the power wire, perhaps a 30amp, not far from the battery?

So I'm thinking of running a power wire from the battery to the auxiliary fuse box by drilling through this grommet spot where a yellow, brown, and green wire? comes out from the 4 wheel drive switch.
I can't seem to find in the FSM where the brown cut line is supposed to run to. Anyone happen to know?

That broken red line is for transfer case 4wd switch.
IIRC it should be manifold vacuum @ plastic vacuum firewall can.

Ok I found the spot where the yellow/green/red lines plug into. The yellow one ended up being broken too, and the green one is taped together! How do I go about replacing those 4wd vacuum lines? They aren't normal vacuum tubing, instead they are the most brittle plastic.

[tgreese]

Where does it go on the other side of the firewall?

You could put the fuse panel under the hood, and then send your smaller gauge wires through the firewall. Unused locations in the bulkhead connector would work well.

Be sure to protect the otherwise unfused power wire from the battery. Put a circuit breaker or fuse as close to the power source (battery? solenoid?) as possible.

Good advice thanks. I'm using an 8gauge wire to go from battery to new aux fuse box. What size fuse do you think would work for that? Could I just use an inline fuse on the power wire, perhaps a 30amp, not far from the battery?
...

10 ga is fine for 30 amps, unless you already have the 8 ga wire. My picture shows a Bussman 30 amp thermal circuit breaker with a weatherproof cover. You can buy a breaker and cover together on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-420855-1 ... aker+cover This breaker is a resettable type, though the one I used is thermal and resets on its own when it cools. Both are better than a fuse.

I don't like to connect at the battery, because those connections always seem to corrode. Instead I would pick the starter solenoid (as seen above) or even the charge wire on the back of the alternator. Electrically they are essentially identical.

[babywag]

Ok I found the spot where the yellow/green/red lines plug into. The yellow one ended up being broken too, and the green one is taped together! How do I go about replacing those 4wd vacuum lines? They aren't normal vacuum tubing, instead they are the most brittle plastic.

You can use windshield washer hose to rejoin them. helps if you lube it up with windex beforehand.
Helps if you cut it back some to remove the brittle ends.

[89er]

Alright got the circuit breaker mounted.



8 gauge aux power line through the 4wd grommet. Vac lines corrected on 4wd.



Mounted the aux fuse box adjacent to the original fuse box.


Plugged everything back in and luckily enough she cranked. The aux fuse box even works and I got to hear my turn signal clicker and heater blower motor for the first time.

However to my dismay many other things have stopped working and shes looking real dark.

Got no cluster lighting, headlights, overhead lights, compass/temp display.
But some stuff does still work ; radio, wipers and washer pump, rear defrost, power windows and mirrors, starts up


Gonna take a break from it and try to figure out my next step.

[babywag]

check fusible links on starter relay.

the ones i've seen that harness went chernobyl required significant repairs of power feed wires.
lots melted insulation required replacing large sections of wires.