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I think he means the damper on the front of the engine crankshaft. It's part of the external balance of the engine, and has a built-in hard rubber layer to help dampen engine vibration.
I think the only thing you can do is remove and inspect. Pretty sure there's a source for new aftermarket dampers, and there are services that will rebuild your damper. You still have the old one? Send it in to be rebuilt, then swap it.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I had a similar thing happen on a Cadillac 390 engine I had rebuilt. The vibrations were around 1200-1400 rpm in P/N and were pretty bad in gear,right at the 2-3 shift point. My engine was out of balance due to a poor set of pistons. A different set of pistons, properly checked for weight fixed the problem.
I start what I finish.
81 Wagoneer 4.2/auto
77 Cherokee S 360/Auto/QT
97 Jeep Wrangler
Nikkormat wrote:304/360/401 definitely use different balancers!
Ditto! If someone is listing the same PN for all of them, then it's either a mistake or a universal damper that requires extensive machining of the crankshaft and fly wheel to actually balance.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.