GWag A/C blower help

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89er
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Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2018 6:43 pm

GWag A/C blower help

Post by 89er »

Howdy, I bought a running condition 89 Grand Wagoneer recently and the previous owner told me the A/C didn't work and he suspected the blower. Im in East TX where the "feels like" is 105 from April to November so this is my highest priority now that I got the power windows all operating.

So I pulled it, stuffed full of leaves. Cleaned out as much of the debris as I could up there + down at the passenger floor intake, but it still feels like there remains more leaves stuffed where I couldn't reach.
Image


The red line on the blower was wrapped up as you can see and disconnected from anything.

Can anyone point me to where do I need to run this power line to test if its functional? Thanks
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'89 Grand Wagoneer Baltic-blue/Tan
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kansasboy001
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by kansasboy001 »

First of all that is the heater blower not the ac. The ac blower is located in the evaporator housing under the dash. The red wire connects to the heater blower motor resistor which is on the other side of the heater box near the back of passenger side valve cover if you have a v8.
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by SJTD »

The AC system isn't likely to be full of leaves like that since it recircs inside air but the evaporator could be full of dust.
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89er
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 89er »

Thanks folks that steers me closer to the right direction.
'89 Grand Wagoneer Baltic-blue/Tan
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89er
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 89er »

think I've located the heater blower motor resistor here. Tried the heater blower power line on each of the prongs and couldnt get it powered.
Image

Image
Found large hole in the box. Is that patch-able in some way or should I go ahead and replace?
'89 Grand Wagoneer Baltic-blue/Tan
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jsinajeep
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by jsinajeep »

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1979bettywhite
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 1979bettywhite »

Welcome to the FSJ world!

I will say the first question I have is how far would you like to go down the A/C pigtrail?

I have been working on mine for about a month. So the questions (from an amateur turned pseudo pro) that need to be asked are:

1.) Has the system been converted to 134a? If not, that is probably the first thing you may want to consider. If it has been converted, you just
have to make some assumptions:
a.) Was the oil in the compressor changed over to PAG 100?
b.) Were the lines all changed to newer lines?
c.) Was the drier changed?

You can try just vacuuming and charging it to see if it will hold refrigerant/test for leaks, but more than likely one of the items mentioned above is going to cause the system to fail at some point.

2.) If it has not been converted, then all of the above questions need to be addressed if you want to do it the right way the first time.
a.) Change out all the old lines. The old lines are more porous than the newer ones and the smaller 134a molecule will seep out of them over
time. Also, if you have a york compressor (more likely you have a sanden), the seals will most likely get eaten up over time, and in general the
sanden will be a bit better with 134a. It will also be quieter and more efficient.
b.) Have the evaporator core and condenser tested to make sure they don't have any holes etc. This will save you much in the way of headaches
in the future. You are going to have to pull the radiator anyway to get to the hoses attached to the condenser, as well as swap the drier, so
why not go ahead and pull it all out and get it tested.
c.) Get a new drier, and maybe a new binary switch as well.
d.) Get a new expansion valve.

You can certainly go the cheap route and evacuate, vacuum and fill the old system with 134a. It might do ok for a while, but it's going to nickel and dime you to death over time and most likely leak out all your refrigerant within the first year.

I worked with a knowledgeable A/C guy when doing mine. His first advice was to just pull everything out and go through the process I described to convert it. It would be somewhat expensive upfront ($800+ if you need a new compressor) but cheaper in the long run. And you won't really worry about it after doing it.

I learned the hard way by blowing both the low pressure and high pressure hose in trying to use the old parts with 134a. So I would have wasted less time by just pulling everything out in the first place.

Fair warning, all your hose connections are most likely going to be just shy of welded together. Lots of PB blaster, waiting time, and patience should free them all. But make sure you use standard wrenches, or even better, line wrenches to hold both sides of each connection so you don't obliterate the brass and bend everything to pieces.

I know that's a lot to digest, but I am speaking from lots of experience now, lol. So trying to save a fellow FSJ'er some time and frustration! Good Luck!

And if you decide to go this route, since you have the A/C under dash box out, just go ahead and pull the heater box. Much easier to get to with the A/C all the way out. You can clean it out, have the core tested with your other items (if you want), and patch the hole from the inside. Just use some fiberglass to patch it. And be careful with wrenches and ratchets when working around it in the future. It breaks pretty easily. You can also replace the insulating material on the doors etc. while you have it out.
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89er
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 89er »

1979bettywhite wrote:Welcome to the FSJ world!

I will say the first question I have is how far would you like to go down the A/C pigtrail?

I have been working on mine for about a month. So the questions (from an amateur turned pseudo pro) that need to be asked are:

1.) Has the system been converted to 134a? If not, that is probably the first thing you may want to consider. If it has been converted, you just
have to make some assumptions:
a.) Was the oil in the compressor changed over to PAG 100?
b.) Were the lines all changed to newer lines?
c.) Was the drier changed?

You can try just vacuuming and charging it to see if it will hold refrigerant/test for leaks, but more than likely one of the items mentioned above is going to cause the system to fail at some point.

2.) If it has not been converted, then all of the above questions need to be addressed if you want to do it the right way the first time.
a.) Change out all the old lines. The old lines are more porous than the newer ones and the smaller 134a molecule will seep out of them over
time. Also, if you have a york compressor (more likely you have a sanden), the seals will most likely get eaten up over time, and in general the
sanden will be a bit better with 134a. It will also be quieter and more efficient.
b.) Have the evaporator core and condenser tested to make sure they don't have any holes etc. This will save you much in the way of headaches
in the future. You are going to have to pull the radiator anyway to get to the hoses attached to the condenser, as well as swap the drier, so
why not go ahead and pull it all out and get it tested.
c.) Get a new drier, and maybe a new binary switch as well.
d.) Get a new expansion valve.

You can certainly go the cheap route and evacuate, vacuum and fill the old system with 134a. It might do ok for a while, but it's going to nickel and dime you to death over time and most likely leak out all your refrigerant within the first year.

I worked with a knowledgeable A/C guy when doing mine. His first advice was to just pull everything out and go through the process I described to convert it. It would be somewhat expensive upfront ($800+ if you need a new compressor) but cheaper in the long run. And you won't really worry about it after doing it.

I learned the hard way by blowing both the low pressure and high pressure hose in trying to use the old parts with 134a. So I would have wasted less time by just pulling everything out in the first place.

Fair warning, all your hose connections are most likely going to be just shy of welded together. Lots of PB blaster, waiting time, and patience should free them all. But make sure you use standard wrenches, or even better, line wrenches to hold both sides of each connection so you don't obliterate the brass and bend everything to pieces.

I know that's a lot to digest, but I am speaking from lots of experience now, lol. So trying to save a fellow FSJ'er some time and frustration! Good Luck!

And if you decide to go this route, since you have the A/C under dash box out, just go ahead and pull the heater box. Much easier to get to with the A/C all the way out. You can clean it out, have the core tested with your other items (if you want), and patch the hole from the inside. Just use some fiberglass to patch it. And be careful with wrenches and ratchets when working around it in the future. It breaks pretty easily. You can also replace the insulating material on the doors etc. while you have it out.

Thanks for the warm welcome and good advice on the AC. I'm plenty willing to go digging down whatever is necessary.

The AC is stock, however I've found this eco-friendly coolant that goes in r12 called Duracool 12a. http://www.duracool.com/Duracool/refrigerants.html
If anyone has some opinions on using duracool in the stock system I'd love to hear.

Decided to use some bondo and patch the hole on the heaterbox because pulling it looked impossible with the AC still in.
'89 Grand Wagoneer Baltic-blue/Tan

1979bettywhite
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 1979bettywhite »

Can't comment on the Duracool as I don't have experience, others might. 134a may not cool as well as r12 does, but I can tell you it's way better than no A/C, lol. And a lot cheaper. You can still get r12, albeit expensively in comparison, but you won't find many people that will deal with evacuating it. 134a is really the way to go unless your A/C systems are in real good shape. You can leave it r12 if you want, but 134a will make life a little easier to deal with. But it's just my opinion. I know others have converted with all the old systems in place and been ok. Some have continued to use r12 without an issue. I guess I was just more inclined to do the job once and do it right. Plus you are nearing the end of the summer, only a couple more months and you could pull all of it out and figure it out over the winter.

Pulling the heater box is not impossible with the A/C in, but it's pretty darn close :). You have to drop down the under dash A/C unit to get to the two internally nutted bolts on the firewall. The biggest issue you run into there is that you don't have a lot of slack in the A/C lines to work with to get it low enough. Unless you have children's hands and forearms. Or unless you disconnect the lines. Which will open the system to the air, which means you need to vacuum it out good to get rid of any moisture.

If it were me, which it was, I would start pulling all the A/C components out, then pull the heater box. Freshen everything back up with regards to the heater box, and re-install. Once you have the A/C out, pulling the heater box and re-installing is a breeze. Hardest part of pulling the A/C is both the condenser (in front of the radiator) and breaking loose all the connections.

Plus, by the look of your heater blower motor leaf load, your heater box may be full of crap as well.
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89er
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 89er »

Started getting the AC off tonight, just the copper business left.

Tattered and melted blue wires were running across the floorboard from the AC mysteriously disappearing into none other than apparently the fuse box.

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67GMC
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 67GMC »

Just remember that the Duracool is essentially propane (a flammable gas). The other refrigerants like R12 and R134a do not burn.
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89er
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by 89er »

Where should I look on fuse box replacement? There doesn't seem to be any for sale specifically for grand wagoneer.
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tgreese
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Re: GWag A/C blower help

Post by tgreese »

From the parts book it looks like it can be separated from the rest of the wiring. Only source for a correct replacement will be a wreck at a junkyard, or from a parted-out wagon. Check the parts-for-sale listings here and at ifsja.org

I'd try and repair it. You can replace the connector that goes through the firewall with a plain piece of wire - just drill through the connector and splice in the wire. Use an inline fuse for the damaged fuse socket.
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