Help returning wiring harness to stock...

[Trevlaw]

Ok, got a new OP sender from Napa. Gonna get that in today. Wasn't able to find a local place to get the CVR stuff at.

This is the VR I have in my cart right now, is this the right one?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/511-L7806CV

Is there any difference between going with the 7805 or 7806 VR, or is it going to be the same result?

Also I'm having trouble finding the right .33 and .1 capacitors on mouser, does anyone have a part number or a link to the correct ones to use?

Thanks guys

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[tgreese]

The 7805 makes 5 volts and the 7806 makes 6 volts. I used a 7805 because the TSM says that the CVR regulates to 5 volts. That works well - I have no experience with the 7806. The 7805 is common as dirt, 7806 a little less so. I expect the 7806 will give you somewhat higher readings than the 7805.

That part is fine if you want the 7806.

Capacitors - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WI ... ztOWX3A%3d
Just get two of these and use for both the input and the output.

Shipping for those part is going to be ca $10, so I'd get several of each. If you need electronics solder, Mouser sells that too - Kester 44 60/40 Pb/Sn rosin core, about 60 thou diameter is a good size for general electronics stuff IIRC. They have a lot of other stuff, like switches, connectors, heat shrink - if you want to bulk up your order.

Go to "help" -> "view online catalog" for a more pleasant browsing experience.

[Trevlaw]

Sweet thanks, I'll go with the 7805 then, the 1 amp rated one should be plenty correct?

Got the new oil sender in, hopefully this goes more smoothly after I get the regulator installed and try everything again. Just want this thing driving so I can start working on stuff that's more my expertise again.

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[tgreese]

Sure. Here's one that's rated 1.5A if you prefer https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ST ... 89sp3uc%3d

[dbabicky]

Go to BJ's and pay $180.00 for a complete new harness to save a lot of trouble.

[Trevlaw]

Not sure how much I trust BJ's after the temp gauge.

Waiting on the VR and caps to come in the mail, labor day isn't helping, so I started another project.

The engine is now half torn apart after what started as replacing the oil pan seal lol. There wasn't any knocking before this when I was driving it, but the main and rod bearings are just starting to wear through to the next layer. The main bearings I pulled out are .010 under, so I'll probably just put new .010 under back in and hope for the best since I don't want to pull the crank and have it machined more, though the crank journals do look to be in good shape, nothing that really catches my fingernail. The rod bearings are standard, so I'm going to get a mic from work and see if there's enough wear on the journals to justify .001 under or standard rod bearings.

Gonna check the timing chain and probably have to replace that as well, any recommendations on a good replacement? Also saw a thrust pin and spring kit, would that be worthwhile cheap insurance?

Mainly going off of this cool older truck manual my grandpa gave to me, lots off good info on the truck in this as well.

The pictures are rear main bearing and journal, #2 main bearing and journal, then #2 rod bearing and journal. The pitting on the #2 main has me a bit concerned, but I'm going to try and find something to polish up the crank with a bit. Don't really have many other options other than putting it back together with 10 unders. Guess I'll start building a 6.0 for it...

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[toothofwar]

Couple of pointers for you.
1. Get some plasti-gauge from the auto parts store and go ahead and measure the tolerances. If I remember correctly, between 15 and 40 thousandths is what you are looking for. Any more than that, and things get sloppy.
2. When you replace your timing chain and gears, make for sure your cam gear oil slot and bevel are correct. I had this problem with my set and my chain and gears where dry.... destroying at least 1 set of distributor gears...
3. While your this deep, check your oil pump end plate for scarring. Also wouldn't hurt to do an oil pump rebuild while you have the timing cover off. It's cheap insurance and takes relatively no time. Just make for sure to pack the oil pump cavity with petroleum jelly and prime oil system before start up.

I'm sure there is several other things that will be brought up by these fsj gurus, but this should be a good start.

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[Trevlaw]

What tolerances are you talking about 15-40 thou? That's huge. My manual shows .001 to .0025 for the rod bearings and .001-.003 for the mains.

Pulled the pump out and apart, can't tell if it's stock or a replacement, but it's definitely outside the .004" gear to cover and .008" gear to wall tolerance. Probably just going to get a new m81 pump. Although I'm not quite sure what having the timing cover off has to do with rebuilding the oil pump, maybe that'll make sense once I get the cover off.

Any problems with just the Napa timing chain and sprockets? Not planning on having this motor for more than 25k-50k more miles really.

And can anyone tell me the difference between the 81-s1 and 83-as3 oil pump pickup tubes listed on mellings site for a 1979 j10 258? The pictures look the same, I have read the descriptions plenty, but don't understand the difference

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[toothofwar]

Sorry, I had a cranial rectal fusion for a moment. I have no idea what I had in my head with the 15 to 40.....

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[toothofwar]

Also, I must have missed where you had the 258. I was thinking of the 360s. The oil pump housing is made into the timing cover on the 360s. So having the cover off would basically put the oil pump in your hand.

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[Trevlaw]

Ok, got the parts in and my grandpa helped me get everything soldered in. Pretty sure I've got everything situated right, just need to crimp the ring terminals on. How's this look?

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