merrill77 wrote:
What is this sock of which you speak? I don't see it on the TSM diagram.
I need to look at the parts manual, in fact bj's carries the sock or fuel filter at the intake in the gas tank
merrill77 wrote:
I'm not actually positive where the fuel pump is. I thought it was just ahead of the tank, but the red & black wires go right past what must be, after looking at the pic again, the fuel filter.
It is probably above the rear differential or find the source of the buzzing sound
merrill77 wrote:
So you think incorrect voltage at the cluster may be to blame for the inaccuracy of the fuel gauge? Hmmm...
Our gauges are notorious for being tempermental due to the basic design of the CVR based on a heated resistor built into the temperature gauge. Usually at some point -every 100Kmiles from my experience- the resistor or CVR fries slowly and you gauges are either too high or too low for gas, oil and temp. changing the coolant temp gauge would fix, but now looking at the units sold, it is a bit below the OEM specs, the best way and this prooved well for my was to build your own CVR as pictured and referenced in the above post. There is a good article that I found in an old blog in 94 where the whole CVR basis is discussed, i posted it on the mothership, these guys even considered better to do a CVR for ea gauge, I did one CVR for all 3. it is fairly accurate, going up hill, the temp will slowly creep up, and after a long downhill the coolant will go down, as low as the cold indicator in below 50F, the trans temp will follow a lot slower than the coolant, my trans temp gauge is aftermarket and is independent of the cluster CVR.
the long story about the CVR, see post #4
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=185312
Edit thank you Flint for adding the sock ref
and I forgot to say that the sender should be tested for accuracy with a resistance load as per specs on the TSM, another llink to add
You need to check your gauge and sensor for accuracy, if you put a known resistance between the engine ground and the temperature, oil pressure or gas gauge wire(s) outside the cab with 15,25, and 78 ohm resistors (from radioshack)... you should have Hot , middle, then cold., or high mid low for pressure or gas
The other way around it to see the resistance value of your temp sensor between ground and the temp sensor you will read a high resistance when cold.... > 80 ohms and so forth.
For those reading, remember that for the 86 and latter the resistance scheme was changed, no CVR and the resistance values were different
I did a little gizmo with a breadboard
and put all those resistors, it is convenient to test gas as well as oil pressure and gas tank sender as the values are the same or similar.