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Pinion seal is starting to leak fairly bad leaking pankcake sized mark on the pavement now. Time to replace it, but my main question is when i take everything off and replace the seal and put it all back together. What do i torque the big nut too ? or is there another process on putting it back together ?
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
Unless its a crush sleeve. At 210 pounds it may put too much preload on the bearing. Normally, I replace the seal, torque it to 150lbs and and peen the thread/nut in a spot to indicate if it starts to loosen. Or you can measure the preload before you replace the seal and then match it after with the toque. I dont have an inch-pounf wrench that will measure 8-16 inch pounds. Theyre so expensive.
Ive been reading 200-250 as well... i cant find anywhere that sells the pinion nut... such a common axle youd figure they would have this thing in a store and not be so difficult to find online..
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
spicer nut 30185 and spicer washer 30186 and pinion seal spicer 50660.
Was going to order it from 4wd.com but they dont have the washer a site called northerndrivetrain.com has it though.. Ground shipping.. damn you local auto parts stores lol. Im so impatient
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
You weren't planing on using your new 1200 ft-lb impact wrench to remove the nut were you?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Question why do i need to hold the yoke if the jeep is on the ground chaulked and parking brake on. How would the yoke spin or move with the wheel locked. I can go to harbir freight and get a pipe wrench if its absolutetly needed i guess the slack in the gearing could make the yoke wobble clock and counterclock wise from the impact ?
Yea ill mark the drive shaft and yoke but i ordered a new nut and washer.
Yes i was planning to use my new impact wrench to remove the nut but use my 300 ft lbs torque wrench to put it back at 210 ft lbs. Why ?
What about the dana 44 in my 5.9zj ? its an aluminum housing.. It leaks too.. would that be shimmed or crush sleeve
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
You only need to hold it if you have the axles out or have it on a lift. Just be sure its in park, e-brake on, etc. As 210ft lbs is more than enough to move the vehicle.
They always say to NEVER use an impact on a pinion or transmission yoke unless you secure it to take the torque. some mechanics even then won't use an impact.
Theory is the hammering of the impact could damage hardened gears or other parts . holding the yoke secure takes this away .
I have just held tension on the yoke so it can't go back and forth and I've never seen a problem even years afterwards. most of the time I use a big pipe wrench because it makes me feel better.
Does it really matter ? or is it just an old wives tale like never laying a crank down flat or it will warp I can't say. I figure better safe than sorry.
I’m of opinion using an impact is fine. No engineer, but I’d venture a guess the forces it’s already been subjected to are far greater.
I’ve done it several times on various vehicles I’ve owned, and many that I’ve repaired...no problems.
YMMV
Kinda confused how an impact could hurt those big gears and pinions gears over say the stress of the engine driving a 5k lbs vehicle lol. Im with babywag on that.. jaha.. got the impact to lessen the stress on my hands and arms of manually removing bolts.. i noticed a days work on my Jeep my hands are hurting badly so it was time to buy that thing, sure the vibrations are harsh but not as hard as trying to force a 30 year old bolt/nut off with all your might lol.
Ill probly use the impact to put the nut on after i finger tighten it at least to tighten it up a little and then fully torque it with the torque wrench
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
Oh, yeah. I don't use an impact on R&P stuff. Always use a torque wrench.
The issue with an impact is the way it hammers. It basically causes the teeth is slam into each other over and over. Plus, there is no way to measure the torque. You can drive the nut on most of the way with an impact, as it should go on without much force. But you don't want to tighten it with an impact.
na i wont tighten it fully you kow what i ment. just get it on snug with half power for a second so i dont have to turn it 20 times with the torque wrench.
Yea i get the gear chattering. i mentioned could that be why to not use it.
but i think itll be fine.. Do you know if yhe d44 aluminum in my 5.9 zj is sleeved ?
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
As I recall 96+ is crush sleeve. For both the D30 and D44. And yeah, I didn't think you were going to hammer it on, my comment was more meant for when people look this thread up down the road.
I was referring to removing it. Putting it on why bother? But if you must I'd stop before it starts hammering.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.