Did I put these springs in backwards?

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Fri Mar 23, 2018 4:22 pm

I just put new springs on my frame and lined them up so that the pin is at the bottom of the arch. When I lowered the axle down it seems to be slanted forward. I haven bolted it in but would appreciate some opinions. If I switch the spring around the centering pin sits a little more forward. Here are some pictures. Thanks.

rocklaurence · Post by **rocklaurence** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 5:50 am

No, it looks OK. Once all the weight is on it, it will move forward 2-3". Now, the Caster may still need corrected after its driving. The Caster should be 3-6 degrees and will affect the drive shaft angle.

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:05 am

Thanks- I ended up figuring it out the hard way. I googled it and decided they were on backwards. So I switched them around. Then when I went to put the shocks on they didn't line up so I switched them around again. the shocks would only fit the way they were in the picture so that solved it.
Im now finding that the rear springs don't want to line up with the shackles. it almost seems like they need some load on them to line up but I don't know how I would pull that off. could it be that I need longer shackles? the kit didn't say so.

SJTD · Post by **SJTD** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 8:19 am

You can put a 2x4 on top of the spring, a floor jack under it, a chain wrapped around the board and under the jack. A little jacking and the spring flattens out.

Or some variation on the above.

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 8:53 am

Great idea I'll give it a try. I've measured the the rear springs a few ways and they seem symmetrical. Does anyone know if that is so?

Post by **Stuka** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 9:40 am

The rears are not symmetric. Neither are the fronts for 74+. For the fronts, the larger eye/bushing goes to the frame side. For the rear, the short side goes to the frame side.

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 3:48 pm

frame side as opposed to shackle side?

1979bettywhite · Post by **1979bettywhite** » Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:25 am

I had to use a 4x4 post instead of a 2x4. Put two ratchet straps around it and the bottom of the spring. Then keep cranking on them until it flattened the spring enough to line up with the shackle.

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Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:49 pm

I had a lot of trial and error but ended up with the crazy set up in this picture. I used a bar from an old weight set so it would fit in top of the front eye and allow me to control how high it moved. Then I strapped the rear shackle down on either side to keep it from moving. I shimmed those chains with a wrecking bar and hammer. Then I used the jack method described above to compress the spring. Seriously hoping I put them on the right way around.

1979bettywhite · Post by **1979bettywhite** » Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:40 am

Looks similar to what I had to do to get my rear springs in.

Just wait until you start trying to get the axle perch to align with the pin in the springs

. You may be pulling out the ratchet straps then as well. I know I had to pull my axle rearward just a bit, as well as pull the springs towards one another to finally get everything lined up to be able to secure it all. Front worked somewhat similar.

And last but not least, if you got your ubolts from rusty's as well, be prepared for them to be 1/4-1/2" wider than the plate mounting holes. Squeezing them together to slide trough was about 20-30 min per ubolt for me. With many not so pretty words uttered.

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Mon Mar 26, 2018 3:18 pm

1979bettywhite wrote:Looks similar to what I had to do to get my rear springs in.

Just wait until you start trying to get the axle perch to align with the pin in the springs . You may be pulling out the ratchet straps then as well. I know I had to pull my axle rearward just a bit, as well as pull the springs towards one another to finally get everything lined up to be able to secure it all. Front worked somewhat similar.

And last but not least, if you got your ubolts from rusty's as well, be prepared for them to be 1/4-1/2" wider than the plate mounting holes. Squeezing them together to slide trough was about 20-30 min per ubolt for me. With many not so pretty words uttered.

yeah I have one that is about 1/2 an inch too narrow which is a pain. I have to figure that one out. One thing I'm confused by is the way the shocks are to be mounted in the rear. They say very clearly that they are to be mounted tube side down but from what I can see and what I read on line they won't fit like that without denting the tube. the ones I took off the truck were mounted rod side down so I guess thats what I will have to do. I'm concerned about them not performing as well and also wondering if that means I need to get boots for them.

1979bettywhite · Post by **1979bettywhite** » Mon Mar 26, 2018 3:27 pm

Others will chime in I am sure. Mine did not have any interference issues with the 4" lift. But of course with the 6" lift you have steepened the angle. I don't know if this is true or not, but I assume you should be fine mounting them rod side down. The only issue I might see is the seal wearing out quicker and causing them to leak from being upside down. But I have seen plenty mounted this way. Boots of course are not necessary, but with the rod mounted down you might consider them to protect the rod from chips and dings that could effect the seal.

Also you might wait to install them when you have it sitting on all four tires. I know they are at "full droop" now but once on all four tires they may clear just fine and limit down travel some. I know that rear shackle will move back closer to a normal position. Extended all the way forward now.

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SJTD · Post by **SJTD** » Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:57 pm

If the guy that makes the shock says body down it's for a reason. Probably the fluid won't be moving through the valves. A shock has to be designed to run inverted.

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:02 am

maybe I will email them and ask whats up. I was googling it and saw one person saying that it's a design flaw and that they have to be dented to be installed. I can't imagine thats the case.

1979bettywhite · Post by **1979bettywhite** » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:22 am

Are these rustys shocks?

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Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Tue Mar 27, 2018 3:50 pm

yes the cheap and cheerful white ones

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Sat May 05, 2018 4:30 pm

Here is a picture of the rear shocks now that the axle is mounted. There's no way they are fitting like this. Did I put the block in backwards?

Post by **Stuka** » Sat May 05, 2018 4:39 pm

Its a common issue on J-Trucks. The angle will get better once you have weight on them springs. That is a weird looking block. You can also mount the shocks upside down, assuming they are a type of shock that can be mounted upside down.

Hendo2.5 · Post by **Hendo2.5** » Sat May 05, 2018 4:45 pm

The block is part of the Rusty's 6" lift kit. The last set were mounted upside down but I don't think they are meant to be. At least it's not considered ideal.

BCRAWLER · Post by **BCRAWLER** » Sat May 05, 2018 4:50 pm

Correct me if I am wrong, those blocks look like they have no taper. If so would that move the shock mounts further foward allowing the space to mount them up using a tapered block?

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