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After about an hour with a chisel I was able to get my spindle off and am trying to remove the axel. Can the u joint fit through the knuckle or do I have to disassemble it? Seems like it won't fit through. Thanks
Hendo2.5 wrote:After about an hour with a chisel I was able to get my spindle off and am trying to remove the axel. Can the u joint fit through the knuckle or do I have to disassemble it? Seems like it won't fit through. Thanks
The axle will pass through once the spindle is removed. The rubber seals inside will likely need replaced.
If there is excessive rust or mud built up on the axle joint it must be cleaned off some. Same with any built up around the inner part of the knuckle though the shoulder on the spindle should have taken that with it.
FWIW, Spindles are often difficult to remove but one must be careful not to damage them or the knuckle in the process. Inspect and clean up any burs left by the chisel. A lil smear of anti-sieze on the knuckle will make removal much easier next time.
looks like the problem isn't rust but rather that the u joint is sticking out on 2 sides rather than sitting flush with the yoke. its not going to pull through. the bushings on the ball joints look pretty worn so maybe I should just pull the knuckle off. Is that difficult? I have decent DIY tools but I'm not in a shop.
I'm not sure the knuckle will drop with the axle shaft in place. It needs to drop down enough for the posts on the ball joints to clear and I think it will hit the yokes on the axle shafts before it does.
Try using a ball joint press OR a big c-clamp to smash those u-joint caps back in (or all the way off).
EDITED because auto-correct on my phone is @#%#$^T^E%UT*^R&*%^#$%^@#$%.
Last edited by REDONE on Sun Feb 11, 2018 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
Hendo2.5 wrote:looks like the problem isn't rust but rather that the u joint is sticking out on 2 sides rather than sitting flush with the yoke. its not going to pull through. the bushings on the ball joints look pretty worn so maybe I should just pull the knuckle off. Is that difficult? I have decent DIY tools but I'm not in a shop.
Throw up a pic or two. Easier for us to offer help if we can see what ya got.
If the u-joint caps have pushed out something is wonky. You obviously will need to replace them but what caused it? You could try a big C clamp to push them back in enough to get the axle out.
You probably won't be able to get the knuckle off with the axle IU N the way. It probably won't clear the upper ball joint.
I wonder if the last guy got a needle out of place so the caps wouldn't seat alla way.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I did give it a few whacks with a Mallet but no luck. maybe I just need to take them apart? I've never replaced the u joints with the clip on the inside of the cap- looks like a pita.
I was wondering if someone put the axle in before the knuckle. Dunno if there would be room.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Thats what i was wondering. At this point i just want to get it apart. I figure the u joint isint in there properly so i may as well pull it apart. I wanted to clean up the yokes and ball joints anyway.
U-joint is scrap at this point. Try a real hammer rather than a soft mallet.
Worst case, grind the end off one or both caps. I'd do this rather than trying to pull the knuckle, which may not work anyway, unless you plan to pull it.
On second thought this might not be wise. Since you use the cross to press the shells out It'll make getting the bearing shell out of the shaft a problem unless you only grind one side.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I'm not sure if i can fit my grinder in there without damaging the yokes. My thought was to grind off the high side of each yoke and pull the axle out. then it should press off if i use the remaining sides of the joint.