tgreese wrote:I suggest you get this book - https://www.amazon.com/How-Paint-Your-B ... 1932494227 - this covers all the options from having the car painted to doing a pro-style job yourself.
Do you want to change the color? Likely the best value is to leave the color the same, keep the doors shut and paint the exterior only. Your local 1-day shop will respray the whole car for a few hundred bucks, or check Craig's list for places that will do resprays. Your typical body shop won't want to repaint your car - they want collision work.
With the 1-day job, the more you do yourself, the better it will turn out. Typically the 1-day shops only offer a fixed number of colors, so you have to choose the color that's closest to what you want. I've had a couple of cars done this way, and my Dad did a couple as well. Turns out pretty nice ... not factory or custom quality, but much better than most people can do at home.
If you want to do it yourself, the Kirker paint kits are cheap and of good quality. The hot rod guys really like the Kirker paints. Realize ther is quite an investment in gear (including PPE) to spray a catalyzed automotive paint. This paint contains isocyanate (cyanide) and can really mess you up if you breathe it or get it on your skin.
I think the rocker is pretty weak from rust. I honestly think the only "fix" will have to be cutting it out, BUT I'll definitely check that stuff out... would it be good for frames or should I use POR 15 on it.kansasboy001 wrote:You can sand down and use a this stuff Napa sells called rust proof m/d on the rocker. It's like por 15 but doesn't need to be painted over.
On the other note a cheap paintjob would probably run you about 1500+ without stripping down and primer or anything
candymancan wrote:Personally ive used rust reformer from rustolium on my frame ect.. Juet gatta use a lot of coats. Get the loose rust off but you dont have to go crazy, lose stuff only abd spray right over. And i havent had rust come back in 2 years now. I did 50% of my underside with it that was rusting
tgreese wrote:Per the rockers, I would shoot them full of Fluid Film or Waxoyl or other similar rust preventatives. You can take the aluminum door plates off and shoot the goop down through holes you drill under the plates, or maybe drill holes on the inside surface of the rockers. Then cover any holes with glued-on patches or coat some patches with roofing tar and pop rivet in place. You can fix any holes in the rockers that way too. Test your bubbles with a sharp screwdriver and poke through if you can. If you are pushing holes through, you're probably better off to wallow out what rust you can, treat with a rust convertor (Permatex is good) or Waxoyl or Fluid FIlm or something, then patch over it. It will last a few years.
Generally with rusty rockers, it's not a good idea to cut out the minimally sized rusty section and weld in new steel. The back sides of your welds will be raw steel, even if you use weld-through primer. For the best repair, you'd remove the whole rocker and prime the backside as well as the outside, then weld where you'll have access to the welds afterwards. It takes some thought and planning so that you have no hidden welds that will rust once you put everything together.
candymancan wrote:Just gatta use a lot of coats.. like 3-4 so youll end up using a lot of cans lol ive probly gone through 100 cabs.. but more is better imo. Here are pics of what mine looked like in the back... was a lot of rust and thats after i banged the chunky stuff off the frame.. it looked worse before.. Been two years now and its still painted nothing has come back
https://imgur.com/a/QAwfj
Yeah, it would help. But it would be better to replace the whole rocker and pre-prime the inside. You could weld like the factory did, at the pinch welds or seams, and have the weld exposed. Then prime and paint over the weld. Just something to consider when you plan the work.Rinkle_Stinkle wrote:
I understand replacing the rocker will leave bare welds on the reverse side BUT if I replaced the rocker and then sprayed the Fluid Film through the access mentioned wouldn't that protect those bare welds or no?
gotcha... makes sense.tgreese wrote:Yeah, it would help. But it would be better to replace the whole rocker and pre-prime the inside. You could weld like the factory did, at the pinch welds or seams, and have the weld exposed. Then prime and paint over the weld. Just something to consider when you plan the work.Rinkle_Stinkle wrote:
I understand replacing the rocker will leave bare welds on the reverse side BUT if I replaced the rocker and then sprayed the Fluid Film through the access mentioned wouldn't that protect those bare welds or no?
I'd imagine with any of these I should be 100% sure that any moisture in the frame or rocker is completely gone or else I'm trapping that against the metal?tgreese wrote:Another product to consider is cavity wax - https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-r ... -wax-plus/ - this is what you'd use to cover over those exposed welds that you are thinking about, and fill any inaccessible seams between panels. I'm not sure how well it would work on top of rusty steel - I suspect the more liquid-y products like Fluid FIlm or Waxoyl will work better for that.
candymancan wrote:Fyi you can drill into the back of the rocker from the underside and spray paint inside the rockers that way. I did that to my ZJs just drilled large hole into them from underneeth on the side (not like under the rocker i mean on the side of it under the jeep) and sprayed rust reformer in there..
You can do the same thing to the frame. Drill holes in it and spray at different angles. Its worked for me.
A round hole isnt going to do anything to the frame
Rinkle_Stinkle wrote:candymancan wrote:Fyi you can drill into the back of the rocker from the underside and spray paint inside the rockers that way. I did that to my ZJs just drilled large hole into them from underneeth on the side (not like under the rocker i mean on the side of it under the jeep) and sprayed rust reformer in there..
You can do the same thing to the frame. Drill holes in it and spray at different angles. Its worked for me.
A round hole isnt going to do anything to the frame
sounds pretty reasonable. I'd imagine I can get a rubber plug for those holes in the rocker?
Id imagine you'd grind the patch down to create a smooth transition and then prime and paint.tgreese wrote:Lowes or Home Depot has plugs in either steel or plastic. Paint the bare edges of the holes, slather the plug with roofing cement or other sealant, and plug the hole. What I've done with (what seems like) good results is to cover rust-through holes with a painted steel patch and pop rivet the patch in place. Pop rivets are great for sheet metal - get a quality gun and a bunch of different sized rivets. I think I have this one https://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-R ... +rivet+gun and boxes of rivets from McMaster-Carr.
You want to put something on the patches and in the gap between to seal them - I have used seam sealant with good results. Any mechanically attached patch will leak if you don't seal it.
You can rivet or screw your patch in place and seal between and paint over the edges with this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2 ... UTF8&psc=1 Get some flux brushes (Harbor Freight) as disposable applicators.