tgreese wrote:Depends on what appearance is acceptable to you. A patched rocker panel (or floors) is better than not patched. even if it's not as attractive as you'd like.
You can weld or glue. There are modern panel adhesives that can be used to join body work, but the preparation of the joints is very different.
Rust repair is time consuming and requires a lot of investment in equipment and supplies. Don't be shocked at body shop estimates to repair rust ... if the estimate comes back absurdly high, they probably do not want the work.
If you want a primer on what's involved in repairing rusty cars right, read through the "shop projects" thread from MP&C on Garage Journal -
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/sho ... p?t=182565 - Robert is an expert but the kind of time and effort he puts in to repairs is only justified for the most valuable of classics.
I'm thinking I may just get a body shop to do the rocker replacement the correct way as I have never touched a welder and would rather my first try not be on the exterior of one of my prized possessions lol
I was quoted a ridiculous price for a paint job.... now granted this is an upscale full on paint job but they quoted 10K to address all rust, remove woodgrains and trim and repaint.
I could cut a lot off by removing most of the trim myself but...
My plan I think is get the body shop to replace the rocker and pull the few dents I have. then I'm going to take it to Maaco and do a cheap "refresh" paint job for $600-700
then bring it home and jack it up, wire wheel the flaking rust on frame and then hit it up with a rustolium rust prevention spray paint.
this will address all the rust issues and by me probably 5-10 years so I can save up and do a full paint job.
as far as the wood grain,
I had planned to restore the wood grain with new vinyls. but I'm going to change the color of the vinyls and go a darker grain I think. I really haven't decided but I'm definitely keeping them.