Voltage drop when using power windows/acc

[Mikeswagon]

Hi Forum,

i just changed my rear window wiring to a Serehill inspired standalone circuit and can´t stop up and down my window since i also build in a remote unit...

Now for the doors, is there any reason to stick with the switched power from the ign switch, or just plug in another extra set of cables (+ and ground) straight from batterie to the connector under the drivers side IP? It is very easy to do and would take a lot of voltage off of the violet-red cable that seems to feed about everything on these rigs...does it hurt to have a fused hot wire to the power windows instead of switched power?

I do see serious voltage drops now when moving the windows...switches are all cleaned, and all the glas channels are too
...
What do you think?

[SJTD]

The point of the stock arrangement is the ability to "lock" the windows.

Since you're only running the signal power through the ignition it's pretty insignificant. The power to the motors should be unswitched as with the tailgate.

[Mikeswagon]

That is my point. There is no relay or anything like that. Switched power through the door switches to the motors....14 gauge wire from ign switch to fuse box, 12 ga from there on. If there is any necessity for these massive wires, there shouldn´t be weaker links before??!

[babywag]

No real necessity, redo how you like...
They did some goofy stuff, but @ least the later models had adequate stuff when built.
The older ones ‘78-down were pretty sad right outta the factory.

[SJTD]

Not sure what you're asking. Maybe we're saying the same thing.

I'd use the existing wire for the relay control and run a new wire to the contacts.

What I'm going to do is move the switches from the front door to the dash with relays in the doors. Haven't decided if I'll have a switch on each front door or not. Prolly not.