'66 J3600 Brakes

[Brly]

tgreese - makes sense to me. I'll see if there's a spacer behind the backing plate. The wear pattern on the inside of the passenger side drum I pulled looks fine as far as in/out.
I also thought the 11" brakes would be adequate in the rear. From what I see in the manual, the trucks with Dana 44 rear axles all had 11" brakes. I don't intend to ever load this truck heavy or tow with it, so I'm not too concerned.
I'll see how well the the 4 drums work when I get it all together. Maybe someday I'll do the front disc swap.
Thanks for the help!
Ben

[Brly]

The driver's side hub popped off with one good smack on the end of the puller bolt.
The brakes line on the rear are hard pipe all the way to the wheel cylinder. Shouldn't this be flexible line from the junction block to the cylinder?
I'll be getting the brake parts this week, so I want to get flex lines if needed.
Ben

[tgreese]

No. Rear axle has a single flexible line from the chassis to near the center of the axle. From there it's hard line to the wheels.

[Brly]

Yeah, I should've known that...
Hosed all of the fittings with PB tonight. See what I can find for new lines and fittings tomorrow.

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[tgreese]

You won't find any source for new hard lines that will be exactly correct - you'll have to make them. Easy with the right tools. Try to preserve the old lines as a pattern for the new. The fittings are standard parts - I suggest using new parts wherever you can, especially the flare nuts. Replacements for the OEM flexible lines should be widely available.

[Brly]

A friend put me onto a local store that has straight lengths of brake line and all the fittings. Found the flex lines and will order them tonight.
Pulled the master cylinder off last night and cleaned it up. Seems to function ok, but I guess I won't know for sure until everything is back together.
I won't be able to work on it the rest of the week or this weekend. Hopefully I can get all the parts around so when I do get back to it I can cover some ground.
Ben

[Brly]

So, is there a bolt on dual resivior master cylinder for these early trucks? I'm not crazy about losing all brake function if I spring a leak somewhere.
I have to see if there are two inputs and two outputs on the Midland booster. It would be nice, but I'm not holding my breath.
Ben

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[tgreese]

Is the midland like a hydrovac? That is, a stand-alone unit with an additional slave and master, and booster between? If so, I would suggest replacing everything with a later master cylinder and vacuum booster in a conventional configuration. Likely the easiest route is to get the entire assembly from a later Wagoneer and see how the parts match up. Finding a Wagoneer donor would not be hard. If you have an automatic transmission, you could swap the entire pedal-pushrod-booster-master cylinder. With a manual transmission, the pedals will be a little different.

[Kaiserman]

11" brakes came standard on some Dana 53's. Depending on the GVW. My 63 with a 6,600lb GVW came with a D53 and 11" brakes, as did the 71 J2000 with a 6,000lb GVW I had a little while ago. Seems like all 7,600 and 7,000lb GVW trucks had the 12" brakes. Not sure where the 6,600/6000lbs started getting 12" brakes.

I also have a spare early D53 with 11" brakes.

[Brly]

The Midland booster is stand alone from the MC. Thanks for the info on getting parts from a Wagoneer. I have a manual transmission. I think I'll try to find a dual resivior MC for now, skip the booster and see what it's like with manual brakes.
Kaiserman - interesting info on the 11" brakes. The service manual I have doesn't show any options for a Dana 53 with 11" drums. Must've changed that later on.
Thanks,
Ben

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[44bz]

I used Dorman #M56193 on my 68. It’s a dual reservoir, drum/drum mc.


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[tgreese]

I used Dorman #M56193 on my 68. It’s a dual reservoir, drum/drum mc.


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On RockAuto, that number crosses to a '72-75 CJ-5 (and lots of other applications). http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 55&jsn=255

Put the Dorman number in the Part Number lookup.

[Brly]

Thanks! I'll probably try that MC.
I got a power steering pump with the truck. Maybe if I get that going I can do something different with the brakes.

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[timwiller]

Cardone rebuilt my vacuum power brake booster. oreillys handled it, saves some shipping. they are out west. https://cardone.com/tech-help/brakes spark plug clearance is tight. dual MC bolts right up. takes two to install the booster.https://cardone.com/products/brakes/bra ... e-boosters no more remans ? , they will rebuild. https://cardone.com/find-parts/vehicle- ... &year=1966

[Brly]

timwiller - Thank you, that's valuable information.
The booster in my truck is the fender mounted Midland and is a separate item from the MC. There is no question that I'm switching to a dual reservoir MC, so I can't use the midland booster. When the time comes, I'll look for a booster/MC combo or maybe a booster I can use with the MC 44baz linked to.

[BWFDRUMS]

I need to find something similar to my build. I have a 67’


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[Brly]

Finally putting the brakes back together and running new lines.
I picked up the dual reservoir MC today. Should've asked earlier, but I assume the brake rod is the correct length to work with this MC?
Is there a way to find out before I get everything put together and actually try the brakes?
Ben

[tgreese]

Mmm ... it depends. I would do as much measuring and comparing of the existing brake rod and master cylinder so that the distances and geometry are as much the same with the new cylinder as possible.

There likely is a master cylinder from that application for the power booster equipped cars as well as without a booster. Often the depth of the pocket in the piston changes depending on power or not. One type may work better than the other.

[Brly]

Yeah, as soon as I posted that I thought "just measure it"! I haven't yet, but I'll work it out.
Getting the new lines wrapped up. Depending on how things go, I might try to start it this weekend.