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I am currently trying to resolve a few electrical connections on the rig. 1970 Console Wagoneer B350 th400. I’m looking for a more descriptive wiring diagram then the one on OLJEEP Collins page/service manual, something with color codes if possible.
Also looking for some info on the wiper and headlight switches and if anyone can tell me what each terminal is.
Can anyone tell me a source to get courtesy door jamb switches? I think i may also need a wiper motor but nothing comes back for the 70. Is this a common wiper motor that came out of another car that i may have better luck with finding?
1970 Custom Console Wagoneer
5.7 Buick 350
Long Island NY
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
SJTD wrote:Maybe you can go back and delete a few???
Can’t find where to clean these up?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Think they have already been cleaned up. No worries. Any progress on your issues?
Ok good, apologize again.
As for my progress, I have just about everything back up and running.
1.Trouble shot the wiper switch and determined it was the ground (by mounting to dash).
2.Headlight all works but I have power to everything (heater motor,radio,blinkers) are all hot all the time.
3. Still trying to determine courtesy light circuit.
4. Still need to find jamb switches.
Kaiserman wrote:The wiper motor is a common 60's GM motor, should be available by application for Jeeps last I looked.
Heater blower motor, radio and blinkers all pull power from the ignition switch if I remember correctly. I'd start looking there.
That’s what I’m thinking, I would assume that the ignition switch has a 12v feed and then a few key on terminals. I am thinking that I have most plugged into a constant terminal and not the key on terminal. That’s why I am trying to located a layout of the terminals.
Typically the wiper motor has power to it from the ignition switch whenever the key is on. This allows the motor to continue to run to park when the switch is turned off, using a switch to ground in the motor that only goes open when the park position is reached. This also requires that the wiper switch be grounded so that the "run" circuit can be completed at the switch.
Other circuits can be wired similarly - the switch connects to ground completing the circuit. That the feed to the switch is hot with the key on does not necessarily tell you anything.
If you are unhappy with the diagram in the TSM, I suggest you make a blow up of the diagram using a copy machine, and trace out the circuits with color pencils. At the same time, follow the wires with your test light or multimeter.
If you need door jamb switches, auto alarm places usually have a selection.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote:Typically the wiper motor has power to it from the ignition switch whenever the key is on. This allows the motor to continue to run to park when the switch is turned off, using a switch to ground in the motor that only goes open when the park position is reached. This also requires that the wiper switch be grounded so that the "run" circuit can be completed at the switch.
Other circuits can be wired similarly - the switch connects to ground completing the circuit. That the feed to the switch is hot with the key on does not necessarily tell you anything.
If you are unhappy with the diagram in the TSM, I suggest you make a blow up of the diagram using a copy machine, and trace out the circuits with color pencils. At the same time, follow the wires with your test light or multimeter.
If you need door jamb switches, auto alarm places usually have a selection.
I didn’t mean that the feed to the switch is hot but that all electrical components are hot even with the key out. I’m assuming that one of the terminals on the starter switch is constant hot. And you description of the circuit makes sense.
I do have a TSM but the wiring diagram is pretty basic with smaller symbols that I’m unsure of what they mean(maybe fuses) it works well for most issues but was just wondering if there were any better schematics out there. I’ll have to sit down and draw up a better one at some point.
As I mentioned above, take a look at the 1972 wiring diagram on the oljeep site. 1972 wiring should be very close to 1970 - not many changes except for the engines - and Jeep hired an artist to draw the wiring diagram in situ. It's really different, and may help you. The following year they reverted to the conventional schematic diagram, IIRC.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Check the back of your starter switch. A main feed wire is attached to the battery side of the switch instead of the ignition side.
Easy mistake to make, many terminals on the switch and no fuse block. Since you are eyeballs deep in the dash wiring already, adding a newer style fuse block is something to consider. Not trivial but worth the effort.
lkmarsh wrote:Check the back of your starter switch. A main feed wire is attached to the battery side of the switch instead of the ignition side.
Easy mistake to make, many terminals on the switch and no fuse block. Since you are eyeballs deep in the dash wiring already, adding a newer style fuse block is something to consider. Not trivial but worth the effort.
So your saying that I may have the main feed to the battery terminal on the back of the switch?
This is why I was looking for a diagram of the terminals on the back of the starter switch.
In reply to your fuse block recommendation, I am toying with this daily. It’s such a mess under the dash with all of the inline fuses and taps and what not. I am trying to keep this rig as original as possible which is what is holding me up. Decisions decisions. Could be sooooo much nicer with a block though huh?