76 fuel tank

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Topic author
ferrum
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Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:49 pm

76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

Assuming that most of gas is out of tank, how much does gas tank weigh? Can one person take it out with little effort or not doable?
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tgreese
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Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by tgreese »

Yes, one person can easily lower the tank when it's mostly empty and disconnected. Rig a jack or something to hold the tank up while you remove the straps, then lower it by hand. Reverse to install.

Water is 8 lbs per gallon, and gasoline is a little less. Siphon out what you can, and you should have less than 10 lbs of gas remaining.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

Topic author
ferrum
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Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

Cool. Thanks for info. I ran the tank dry. Stalled engine just before I got up my driveway. Had to put in some gas to get it up the driveway.
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ferrum
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Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

Image

Skid plate is out.

Image

Image

Fuel tank is out.

I'm planning on replacing all rubber hoses and new sender. I would welcome any suggestions on things I should do while it is out.




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Tatsadasayago
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Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by Tatsadasayago »

I found that adding Vaseline to new sender and pickup O-Rings helps them install and seal well.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation

Topic author
ferrum
Posts: 131
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:49 pm

Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

Thanks for suggestion. I need to go buy vasaline as I can't find any round my house.
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ferrum
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Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

I got the old sending unit out to replace it with new replacement I purchased from BJ's a few years ago. I ran into a snag...
Image

Notice the indentation where o-ring suppose to seat in.

Image

This o-ring was in the box with new sender. It is too thick and small diameter to work with my tank. At this point, not a problem. I also ordered new locking ring and o-ring for the sender as well.

Image

I'm a bit pissed off at this point because it was too big to seat in the groove. This o-ring is preventing me from finishing my sender install. This happened to me on Sunday. I ran all over town tried to find right o-ring. Need less to say, Lowes, Home Depot and all usual auto stores didn't carry the o-ring I needed.

I found one that was close enough to work on Monday from bearing store.

Image

I wanted to replace locking ring with new one that was included with sending unit. However, new ring would not work with my tank.

Image

This is overlay of old and new locking ring. I'm somewhat confused to why replacement parts didn't work for me. I thought parts I ordered from BJ's were compatible to my 76.

Image

One of reasons why my old sender didn't work.

Installed fuel tank back in the jeep. Primed fuel supply line and jeep stared up.

Image

I've never been this happy to see my fuel gauge read empty.

Image

Reinstalled newly painted skid plate back in.

Do I have odd ball fuel tank or did I get wrong parts from BJ's? If someone can explain it to me I would appreciate it.





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tgreese
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Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by tgreese »

I suspect all this stuff was sourced from MTS and retailed by BJs. The 002 tank http://www.mtscompany.com/J-truck.htm shows two different gaskets and two different lock rings. Perhaps you got the wrong ones.

The replacement senders seem to be quite variable in quality ... I would be happy that the sender worked as expected. I recommend to test the sender with your multimeter before installation. Resistance specs are given in the TSM.

Also I'm a fan of the adhesive-lined heat shrink rather than tape. The tape will be fine, but the heat shrink provides an extra measure of strength and weather-resistance. https://www.parts-express.com/cat/heat- ... PortalID=1
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

letank
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Location: SF bay area

Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by letank »

Yes the BJs ring need to be customized, I had to do it on the 74.

Image

New ring under the old one painted black, to find the correct trimming points

Image

As for the gas gauge giving you a good reading... forget it... I installed the bjs on the 74 and the 85, while I was enjoying gasoline sniffing, do it all at once.

On the 85 the gas tank was half full, reading 6" out of 11" height of the gas tank, and the gauge did not go past 1/4, at least I know it... which is better than reading empty 100 miles after a fill up
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)

Topic author
ferrum
Posts: 131
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:49 pm

Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

tgreese wrote:I suspect all this stuff was sourced from MTS and retailed by BJs. The 002 tank http://www.mtscompany.com/J-truck.htm shows two different gaskets and two different lock rings. Perhaps you got the wrong ones.

The replacement senders seem to be quite variable in quality ... I would be happy that the sender worked as expected. I recommend to test the sender with your multimeter before installation. Resistance specs are given in the TSM.

Also I'm a fan of the adhesive-lined heat shrink rather than tape. The tape will be fine, but the heat shrink provides an extra measure of strength and weather-resistance. https://www.parts-express.com/cat/heat- ... PortalID=1
Yes, I should count my blessing that the sender is working as it should for now. I did check the resistance with multimeter prior to installation. However, I didn't care about exact resistance value when empty as I figured it is what it is. I made sure that as I move the float to full position, resistance went down in value.

I know I should have used weather resistance heat shrink for proper installation but looking at what I had, good quality 3M electrical tape should be sufficient or better than what I had before. I used all stainless steel nut and star washer to secure eye to the sending unit.

Wonder if it would be even worth to call BJ's about getting the correct o-ring...
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Topic author
ferrum
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Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:49 pm

Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

letank wrote:Yes the BJs ring need to be customized, I had to do it on the 74.

Image

New ring under the old one painted black, to find the correct trimming points

Image

As for the gas gauge giving you a good reading... forget it... I installed the bjs on the 74 and the 85, while I was enjoying gasoline sniffing, do it all at once.

On the 85 the gas tank was half full, reading 6" out of 11" height of the gas tank, and the gauge did not go past 1/4, at least I know it... which is better than reading empty 100 miles after a fill up
What method did you use to trim the locking ring to right size? This is for my future endeavor if it happens.

I had about 1 gallon in the tank when I was done reinstalling it back in the jeep. It read completely empty. I filled up about 2 gallons and gauge still didn't move. I filled up completely and my gauge read just past full mark which I'm happy with. I still need to find out at what point it will read empty again. My tank holds about 25 gallons when it is completely empty. I will let you know how it turns out. For what it's worth, I have a fuel gauge that actually moves and it is moving quite fast towards empty.
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letank
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Location: SF bay area

Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by letank »

ferrum wrote:
letank wrote:Yes the BJs ring need to be customized, I had to do it on the 74.

New ring under the old one painted black, to find the correct trimming points

Image
What method did you use to trim the locking ring to right size? This is for my future endeavor if it happens.
Dremel tool cutting wheel, the heavy duty one- a must for quick triming on any part or rust removal-
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
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tgreese
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Location: Medford MA USA

Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by tgreese »

JMO - use the old locking ring. It's not going to wear out.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.

Topic author
ferrum
Posts: 131
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:49 pm

Re: 76 fuel tank

Post by ferrum »

tgreese wrote:JMO - use the old locking ring. It's not going to wear out.
That's exactly what I did to get my DD back on the road. :D
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