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Use ARP torque spec. if different than stock bolts? Sometimes they have different spec. on instruction sheet.
Can’t speak on not going in gradual steps...it’s what I’ve always done.
If me I’d back ‘em off and retorque in steps, no idea if necessary, but it’d make me feel better.
I wouldn't back them off, at least not more than 10 or so. If using ARP's they should be good for more so I'd just find out what their max is and go somewhere between where you are now and that.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
So I started pulling stuff off the other engine to find out it has a Holley street dominator intake. You couldn't tell what it was before due to 35" of cooked oil covering it
And looking through the oil drain ports in the engine valley, seems from what I can see the cam looks really good, look closer when I get this engine pulled.
Will be getting rid of builder engine ran ok considering ... had valve train issues.
comes with extra set of heads
Left (driver side) bank head casting is messed up from p.o. header bolt hole is effed. So let me know if your interested.