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babywag wrote:Boy that's a bummer/tough one. If it was mine I'd drag it down to machine shop and ask their opinion.
Unless you get it perfect you may have problems with rear main bearing cap/bearing clearance.
If it is off, even by .001 it will screw with bearing clearance.
If the bearing cap is off, clearance will be off, could have bigger issue than an oil leaker.
Yea i was thinking that if welded on itd have to 100% flush for the cap. But it should be. As long as person holding it on keeps the chipped peice flush with where it cracked
I was just saying it would have to be verified & corrected if it's not.
When in rhe realm of bearing clearances things need to be perfect.
Not an easy or simple DIY repair here.
Cheapthrills wrote:Yea it sucks... but here is where I'm at, this engine is supposed to be temporary anyways 1-2 years to do another swap... so looking at it I'm gonna continue with assembly MacGyver the issue area and drive it...
Probably what I would do, clean it up, and put it back with the way it is now, and see! No need to sweat it.
I am sure that nobody will offer any warranty.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
babywag wrote:Boy that's a bummer/tough one. If it was mine I'd drag it down to machine shop and ask their opinion.
Unless you get it perfect you may have problems with rear main bearing cap/bearing clearance.
If it is off, even by .001 it will screw with bearing clearance.
If the bearing cap is off, clearance will be off, could have bigger issue than an oil leaker.
Yea i was thinking that if welded on itd have to 100% flush for the cap. But it should be. As long as person holding it on keeps the chipped peice flush with where it cracked
I was just saying it would have to be verified & corrected if it's not.
When in rhe realm of bearing clearances things need to be perfect.
Not an easy or simple DIY repair here.
No youre right i was thinking same thing just didnt post it. But it should be fine as long as welded on carefully.
Tbh again i dont this is a hige deal.. Tbh i wish you were local to me.. Id weld that sucker back on for you
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
Well after soaking pistons in chem dip for 2 weeks, I was finally able to get the ring grooves clean.... pain in my @#$.
Napa shorted me 2 of the rod bearings, I should have them tomorrow. So the bottom end is almost together.
Been a slow process life keeps coming up and my wife's bronco (our only running vehicle) been showing need for lots of attention.
Cheapthrills wrote:Well after soaking pistons in chem dip for 2 weeks, I was finally able to get the ring grooves clean.... pain in my @#$.
Napa shorted me 2 of the rod bearings, I should have them tomorrow. So the bottom end is almost together.
Been a slow process life keeps coming up and my wife's bronco (our only running vehicle) been showing need for lots of attention.
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I have a love hate relationship with my old vehicles lol.. You fix one,, and the other starts to fall apart.. Its a back and forth battle between my wagoneer and the two 20 year old grand cherokee's lol. Oddly the 4.0 ZJ is at 252k now and its still on its original tranny and engine and its never had any major issues, minus needing a new timing chain,radiator and some bad seals in the past. Gatta tell you im amazed that 42re transmission has 252k miles and still runs strong lol. That almost unheard of for an RE series
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L Limited 219k
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 laredo 430k
1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 155k
1976 Jeep J10.. 85k(repaired)
Still not done... baught a new heavy duty water pump though, and it's impeller was too thick.. it wouldn't mount properly... grrr. So had to return it for the oe pump, oh well. maybe I might get some time to continue this engine rebuild sooner than latter.
Cheapthrills wrote:I haven't tried the can thing but have tried a flat board a little hammer a big hammer a big socket a deadblow
I think I'm gonna have to just say screw it and get the tool for it and put it in with the cover on the engine
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in fact it is tricky, it has to go a bit sideways but not too much,just enough... may be a little lube,not too sure what would be ideal, someone will chime in. Always easier when the cover is off...
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Me counting was, how many times I smashed it on the floor or with a hammer.... I realized I had an issue when I tried to make my 79 f250 more fuel efficient by putting dozens of softball size dents in the hood with a mini sledge.... this when I realized I had a problem.
Lol
Cheapthrills wrote:Me counting was, how many times I smashed it on the floor or with a hammer.... I realized I had an issue when I tried to make my 79 f250 more fuel efficient by putting dozens of softball size dents in the hood with a mini sledge.... this when I realized I had a problem.
Lol
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had me rollin this morning!!!
Yeah lets just say I've been know to become slightly erratic and typically end up immediately regretting my tantrums
1988 Grand Wag
AMC 360 with 96K
Edelbrock intake manifold
260H Comp Cam
Edelbrock AVS 4brl carb
Headman headers
2" to thrush muff with 3" tip exhaust