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Looking into rebuilding my carb and shopping around for a good rebuild kit. Any suggestions of known good complete kits?
I have a 1RHM2 carburetor, but there are some other numbers on it too:
I'd like a kit with good instructions and one that has all the parts.
Also considering buying these items just to be safe:
- float (brass)
- needle and seat
- choke pull-off
Let me know if those extras are necessary or not.
This is my first carb rebuild, so any other tips are appreciated!
What should I soak in to clean? I only see carb cleaning in aerosol cans, is that enough? I've also seen people drop the whole carb in a bucket of cleaner.
1981 Cherokee 2-door -- 360 V8 -- T-176 -- NP-208 -- Dana 44 + AMC 20 -- Narrow track, base model
Needle and seat will come in the kit. A complete kit should also include the correct power valve.
You want a kit for a 1RHM2 carburetor - that's the relevant number. Here is the Napa listing - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB25152 - Napa parts are typically of good quality. If you want a float and a choke pull-off, there are sources online or your local Napa store can likely get them. I would not replace the float unless it leaks - shake it. Choke pull-off? Maybe ... again, I would not replace it unless it was specifically suspect.
The kit should come with a sheet of specifications. Your TSM will also help you here.
You can still get the dip. It's made of toxic chlorinated hydrocarbons (like paint remover) and may no longer be available in your area. Plus it's a significant investment to buy a big enough can to dunk the whole carb body into. Today I just use the spray can and blast the passages with cleaner and compressed air. . Some brands are better than others - Berryman's is good IME, and CRC IIRC. The generic Advanced Auto cleaner works very well. Gumout was terrible. The varnish should melt away if the cleaner is any good.
An alternative is ultrasonic cleaning. But again, a cleaner big enough to hold this carb body will be expensive.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Do you have the TSM? Both circuits are explained very well there. If not, you could read the '82 TSM at http://www.oljeep.com - that will be close to the same as an '81. Some details will be different, but the gist of the carburetor discussion will be the same. Section 1J, p. 59. http://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html
And keep the carburetor cleaner away from anything that's not all-metal and that you want to reuse, like a nitrophyl float or the choke pull-off.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I've always had good luck with NAPA kits for 2100/2150 carbs. Seem to have everything one needs to get the job done, and I've never had any problems with them.
A bucket of carb/parts cleaner really does help, but if you don't plan on cleaning/degreasing things often it's probably not a great investment for you. Carb cleaner, gas and a tooth brush will work just fine.
Nevermind, found the manual posted earlier and educating myself.
2 stage power valve, has altitude compensation, carb build February 9th, 1981 for 360 v8 with manual transmission, learning a lot!
1981 Cherokee 2-door -- 360 V8 -- T-176 -- NP-208 -- Dana 44 + AMC 20 -- Narrow track, base model
The Jeep 2150 uses an altitude compensator. Don't mess with the jets... don't remove them. The jets are in there Charles Atlas tight, and you will mangle them if you make a casual attempt to remove. You can find the Motorcraft jets if you search, but they are far from widely available. My advice is to put everything back to original condition, as best as you can. Don't remove any emissions devices without considering what the side effects will be.
Don't remove the throttle flaps. If the carb body is worn at the throttle shaft, have a carburetor shop bush the shaft to repair it.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.