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I'm at the point where I'm ready to put the cab and bed back on the frame of my j10. One thing left before I do that is installing the transmission to radiator hard lines. Both of mine had a split in them and almost a split in one of the bends. So I ruled out using a union to repair them. Searched around town for someone that will bend new ones. No luck, only came up with a guy at an industrial supply that would make flexable teflon lines that were reinforced with stainless wrap like brake lines. I considered that route but thought with the heat from the exhaust, it would be better to use metal lines.
So to make a long story short. I ordered a roll of Nicopp 5/16" tubing, some spring wrap for extra protection, and the bender and flare tools. Practiced with the double flares until I was happy with them. Then began bending the tubing to form a new line. It took some time but it was getting there until I got to the part where the line connects to the transmission. It make a sharp bend in such a short area that I kinked it. Still have enough tubing left for two new lines but I see the same problem happening again. This is one time I have accepted the fact I'm not going to make something on my own and be happy with it. So back to searching for the lines for 727 tranny or someone in the North Ga area that will make new ones.
I had mine some using hydraulic lines.
Although my tranny is a th400, same concept
New fittings at the tranny as well as the radiator I got from Amazon.
They are rugged enough an somewhat flexible.
A whole lot easier than trying to bend metal ones.
US Marine
79 Jeep Cherokee
360/TH400/Full time TC
Dolphin gauges
GM style HEI
Power windows
Serehill tailgate and headlight harness
"My jeep has no manners it
marks every parking spot"
If you need to make a sharp bend to the transmission, you can use a compression elbow. https://www.amazon.com/5-16-Brass-Compr ... B00EEF0VD8 - likely not available at Home Depot, but McMaster-Carr or Grainger are sure to have them. I have will-called stuff at my local Grainger store front; next-day service, but Grainger can be pricey.
This type of fitting will be fine for the transmission lines, but never use a compression fitting for brake lines. If you need a flare fitting at the transmission end, you can buy pre-made nicopp flared on both ends. Cut one flare off and join it to the tubing you made with the fitting I linked to above.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Also - JMO - I would not use Nicopp for this application. These lines have to flex a lot with engine and chassis movement, and I expect the Nicopp/Cunifer alloy is much less fatigue resistant than steel. Mounted rigidly for brake line, the Nicopp is fine. Steel is much more resistant to fatigue cracking than copper or aluminum ... maybe Nicopp has enough iron in the alloy to not fatigue ... IDK ... anyway, steel tubing is really cheap, and you can afford to ruin several attempts for the price of the Nicopp tubing. Again, you can use pre-made pieces to get your flared ends and join them to the long run with compression fittings, so all you have to do is bend the long run.
We use NiCopp for tranny lines all the time at work. No issues so far. I've been running my 63 around with NiCopp tranny lines for a couple of years with the same result.
Try a different tubing bender, I have a pretty generic Blue Point one that I can bend 3/8" into a pretty tight bend with out kinking NiCopp or steel.
I have this one https://www.amazon.com/Robinair-18548-F ... ing+bender - recommended. Not cheap though. I also have an Imperial-Eastman which only bends 3/8" but has longer handles than the Robinaire. Takes a lot of strength to bend 3/8" steel tube with the Robinaire bender.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Thanks all for your comments. You all have encouraged me to give it another try. It was really frustrating this weekend to get one formed only the kink it at the end. I know when it's said and done I'll have an arm and leg in the lines but at least I'll get the satisfaction of knowing they didn't whip my tail and I can make them.
I choose the Nicopp tubing from reading that it bends so much better over the zinc steel. I really couldn't tell that much difference, especially on the tighter bends. Maybe it was because it was 5/16 line. The Snap On truck stops by the shop. I'll check with them about a bender. Mine is just a cheap plier type with 3 dies. It just blows my mind that living in a smaller simi industrialist town that no one commercially bends up metal lines anymore. It's a dying art I guess,and no one wants to pay for the time it takes to make them.
Being in a cash strapped situation long ago I ran into the same problems you have Bearman. I bent up some NAPA tubing and added some soft line to make the tight turn then went back to a steel stubby to connect to the trans. Keep in mind that the highest 'normal' pressures in those line is around 45 PSI, which any rubber fuel line can handle just fine.
1977 Cherokee Chief - The Blair Jeep Project III
A collection of parts flying in close formation