2150 won't run after setting please help

[kansasboy001]

I rebuilt my 2150 and it ran great for a couple days after rebuild but now the car won't run if has been sitting for a couple hours. It will run for a few seconds then die and not run again. It seems that the float is sticking in the closed position not allowing fuel into the bowel. If I beat on the carb with a screw driver or remove the airhorn it works fine.

There is also a high pitched sound comming from the carb that is only present sometimes and only on idle this has been there before the rebuild
I'm at my wits end. Please help
kansasboy001 is online now

[REDONE]

Well, vacuum is highest at idle, so that's probably the high pitched noise (leak). I'm starting to sound like a broken record saying this over and over, but the 2150 is a great carb when it's NEW. All the used and rebuilt ones I've handled have all been worn out junk, with warps, cracks, and missing parts.

EDIT>>> All I did just now is THINK about the MC2150 and now my hands smell like gas.

[kansasboy001]

Yeah, the anneroid was a little warped but I sealed it with rtv. Yes I know rtv is bad on carbs but that has alot of space before the air hole. There didn't appear to be any cracks, but I have an extra main body I could try and use. I'm much more concerned with the starting issue.

[rocklaurence]

When I rebuild a carb I use JB Quick on all the plugs, nicks and then sand the epoxy flat. There are a lot of hidden passages that you can never make sure they're clean but I have had good luck with the $30 rebuild kits.
PS you can take the top off the carb to check float operation. I like to do this after a rebuild to make sure the level is good and that the fuel shuts off and doesn't flood. Just dont let it catch FIRE

[kansasboy001]

I got the standard hygrade kit so that parts should be good. Float level is set to spec. It's like the float is catching on something I have an extra float off of an older 2150 I could try

[letank]

When I rebuild a carb I use JB Quick on all the plugs, nicks and then sand the epoxy flat. There are a lot of hidden passages that you can never make sure they're clean but I have had good luck with the $30 rebuild kits.
PS you can take the top off the carb to check float operation. I like to do this after a rebuild to make sure the level is good and that the fuel shuts off and doesn't flood. Just dont let it catch FIRE

As said you can run with the top of the carb or air horn off

see video -let me find it first-





aaack check on my link fuel and brake lines, it is at the end

[kansasboy001]

Turned out to be a bad needle and seat, thanks