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Hey guys, I am a jeep tourist because I got a cheap grand wagoneer from a friend, for cheap. It is in pretty bad shape mechanically, and I am stuck on the carb. I rebuilt it, because it was leaking a little, and it is still leaking and wont idle. Car wouldn't crank at all, now it starts and runs as long as you pump the throttle, (runs pretty well actually) but no idle. Float needle valve works, and just put in a new electric fuel pump. Return line was clogged, ran a new one.
I was wondering if the carb is just cracked, because I see evidence if leaking fuel, but nothing excessive. small fuel leak out of the lever arm in the driver's side, and a little from the big x valve thingy in the back. carb is a motorcraft 2100 on a 360 v8, just looking for some guidance, get a new carb? rebuild again, what to check for, etc... any help appreciated!
Walhalla SC. At the foor of the mountians. I was thinking another carb, one for sale down the road for 50$...I was just seeing the best options, because I dont know what I dont know.
Totally! We're a pretty social group, always looking for chances to get face to face.
Like many here, I'm a fan of throttle body fuel injection for AMC V8, but it is a big investment for a vehicle that usually costs no more than a couple grand to drive home.
The MC2150 (an MC2100 with an altitude compensating mechanism) is a great all-around carb for our trucks, but I've not had great luck getting them in good condition, either rebuilt or remanufactured. Used, they've all had warped/cracked top plates, and reman'd one had the compensator replaced with a bolt to gag it shut.
The popular square bore 4bbls all require a new intake, so between the cost of a carb & intake your 3/4 of the way to turn-key TBI.
For $50, I think that carb down the road may be worth the chance, I just wouldn't get too emotionally invested just in case it's no better than the carb you have. The mystery fuel leaking sounds very typical of all the worn out motorcrafts I've had to part ways with.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
back to carb, it seems to be leaking at the throttle shaft, probably need a new bushing, but seems like a major pita if leaking in the back as well, the carb may have ended its serviceable life.
Picts are always good to give us more details.
Do not forget to install a new fiber gasket and may be a new insulator plate -the plate often breaks appart when removed.
A rebuild kit is about $50, now, aren't they? (Haven't rebuilt a carb in ages, sorry). I'd try that first and see if that helps. Even with the used carb for sale, you'd still want to rebuild it (unless it's recently been done) and then you'll be into it for $100....
DIY TBI can run anywhere from a couple hundred to turnkey systems at around $1,000-$1,500.
$1000 complete for the PFI (includes everything, including the adapter for the stock intake).
A couple guys here named Blake and Ethan are avid supporters of junkyard TBI, usually spending around $300 to piecemeal whole systems together, but they did the research and know what to look for.
The single best resource for TBI here is USNbill, or Bill Hamilton of Hamilton fuel injection. He did the mother write-up over on binder planet and migrated it over here for us jeepers. His systems cost closer to $1500, but there's no price tag on the expertise he offers.
79 J-10 (Honcho Mucho) KE0LSU
304/Performance Fuel Injection TBI/MTA1/SP2P/Magnum rockers
T18/D20/D44s&4.10s/33" Mud Claws
Grizzly Locker Rear
4" front spring drop, 5" rear shackle flip
Chevy style HEI (ECM controlled)
Dolphin "Shark" gauges in a fancy homemade oak bezel
3/4 resto, rotting faster than I've been fixing it.
OK, update, I got a new/rebuilt carb from rock auto for about 200$. I put it on, and same thing, but no more leaks, runs ok when you pump the throttle, but won't idle and backfires as it gets hotter. Good news, is it is way closer to idling, and no leaks, but more or less in the same boat. I am going to replace the PCV, and play with the adjustments, like the fast idle, but still could use any help you can give...
Have you double-checked the firing order? If so, I'd start checking other things beyond the carb. Timing (with and without vacuum advance hooked up), if you have a vacuum gauge, set your idle mixture for maximum vacuum.
Ron
2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 SJ J10, 4v360, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly.
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 4v360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 SJ J10, SniperEFI 401, QT, D44s, 31X10.5s
2006 KJ
Mars wrote:One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
I will check the firing order, I just changed the plugs, and three plug wires were hangine loose (!) but I can't adjust or do much because I can't get this thing to idle at all. Is there an idle speed adjustment? or just the idle mix adjustment?
The TSM has an excellent discussion of the workings of your carburetor. It covers each circuit - run, accelerate, idle, choke.
The idle speed is controlled by a screw (the idle speed stop) on the throttle linkage. There is an additional stop on the choke side that controls the fast idle at start-up. The idle mixture is the two screws on the bottom front of the carburetor. Turn them all the way in, and then out the same amount, say 2 or 2.5 turns. Setting these a little rich won't matter for getting the engine to run - tune them after you get the engine to idle.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
OK, I did that, adjusted the idle with the throttle linkage, and I can get it to idle, it is a little rough, and idles very high, maybe 2500 rpm. I adjusted the idle mixture, and cant get it to idle under about 1000rpm, but this is much better!
I am going to keep playing with it, and maybe try to play with the timing, but thanks for the help!
SO. Fuel line is clogged again, so I'll run a new one, not getting fuel to the carb, this is a new issue, but easy to diagnose, I think the old metal line has had it. I have all the ports plugged on the carb, so I'll let you all know what happens next.
By the way, I checked the timing, firing order, distributer replaced and advance works with vacuum, new carb, new plugs, car idles way too high, then when warm, wont idle at all, that is where I was, then the starter broke, I replaced that, then the fuel line is clogged again...